got my disc home.

[funny farmer]

the guy said it is an international 37 and he had a print out from one he found on the computer, the picture looks the same, I was wondering if anyone here had any idea how old it is, the bearings seem pretty loose hopefully I'll be able to find parts for it still and some of the discs are broken. An other thing I was wondering, he was told by the guy he bought it from to hook it up to the 3 pt. drawbar, why is that? I'm thinking it's so I can keep it leavel when I'm going along, but I think it's going to be hard backing up when I squre off the corners of the field because my control arms sway so much, it's been raining here for a week now so it just look like I'll be able to use it till may,but you never know.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Late 1950's to mid 1960's. It became the model 370 in the late '60's.

 

[funny farmer]

I was wondering how much play there should be in the bearings between the shares and disk shaft, seems to me that there is about an inch of give when I pull the disks left and right. I see that this disc cost around $1200 from the dealers, maybe I'll take it apart this winter and replace all the bearings, maybe even paint it,I would really have something then.

 

[AKfish]

3pt drawbar...? There's the drawbar hitch and there's the 3pt hitch. The only thing that comes to mind is the old, flat-bar hitch than spans between the 3pt arms (I think that it was really a 2pt hitch - no toplink) and has holes that are spaced along the top to hook up discs, rakes, wagons, etc.

Some models of older tractors used to have a fair-sized chunk of cast iron bolted along the rear (near the PTO shields) of the differential to absorb the impact of the 3pt arms swinging and hitting the tractor when turning with implements attached.

Yup, if there's an inch of play in the gangs - you need bearings.

A winter search-and-rescue effort... Search for the parts and rescue the old disc!

AKfish

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I was wondering how much play there should be in the bearings between the shares and disk shaft, seems to me that there is about an inch of give when I pull the disks left and right. I see that this disc cost around $1200 from the dealers, maybe I'll take it apart this winter and replace all the bearings, maybe even paint it,I would really have something then.

Are the gangs just loose? If so you just need to tighten them up but if there are broken blades then just pull the shaft, replace any broken blades and bearings and put it back together. You may find the replacement disc are considerably bigger and that would be because the disc on the gangs are worn that much.

I have two 370's, a 10' and a 12'. I need to refurbish my 10' as that was cobbled together by the previous owner and I have not taken the time to fix it properly. Maybe this winter would be a good time to work on it.

You can still get most if not all parts from your Case-IH dealer as well as aftermarket tillage dealers.

 

[funny farmer]

thanks for the advise guys. I think it would be better to hook it directly to the tractor drawbar. It didn't make much sence to me why you would hook it up to the 3 pt. When I raise and lower the 3 pt. it doesn't have any impact on the disk anyway.

 

[kthompson]

thanks for the advise guys. I think it would be better to hook it directly to the tractor drawbar. It didn't make much sence to me why you would hook it up to the 3 pt. When I raise and lower the 3 pt. it doesn't have any impact on the disk anyway.

Don't know what your disk model looks like but hard to believe the full movement of the 3 pth Will not affect the disk at all.

But my reason for replying was don't waste money on Chinese bearings. I found Chinese, Japanese and USA bearings for my King and made mistake of trying the Chinese. They were cheap two ways. But wasted labor was not. Also be careful on the thinkness of the blades.