Got tractor to play with - Mitsubishi D1650 with loader - got some questions

averagejoe1 · Mar 11, 2019

I have zero experience with tractors =) Got one to move rocks around, some minor work like moving around mulch and hopefully being able to move not too heavy pallets for stuff we ship from the house (with forks mounted on the bucket)

I have few questions about it and hoped someone could help me to understand it better =)

First - general question - what I should do first to make sure it will not get destroyed prematurely? I do not know exact year of the machine, but it got diesel 4 cylinder motor.

FEL seems to be aftermarket or custom. Bucket is quite rusted and cutting edge has "smile" - i planed to try to straighten it out using bottle jack technique I found somewhere on the forum. But this will not fix rusted pinholes. Should I plan to reweld bucket, or it is easier to buy bucket instead? I could not find anything that looks like would mount on this loader...

On hydralics control block (not sure what it is called correctly) there are couple holes on the bottom and i see some amount of oil getting out of it. I wander if this is normal and perhaps I am overloading it, or perhaps something is wearing out?

There is also some regulator with japanese text on it. My phone could not pick it up for translation. Perhaps someone knows what this regulator know is for?

Would it be possible to add another attachment, like grapple (which would require separate hydraulic switch I guess) to this?

Should I bother about these lines? Or just wait till they break and buy replacement? And where I can get such replacements?

How long such tire might last and what is the best source to get new tires? It is 8.3 - 22 one. Also, where I can such tire ti be installed? Is it DIY job or I has to unbolt it and take to tire shop? Any tire shop?

How tricky it is to replace brakes and clutch on tractor? These seems to be fine right now, but just trying to figure out what to prepare for in regards of things that should be wearing out eventually.

Also, this tractor does not have seat belt. And I am not seeing place to bolt one. How people add seat belt in such situations? Also, do they?

Any other advice to first-time tractor, and specifically D1650, user? =)

Kernopelli · Mar 14, 2019

averagejoe1 said:
I have zero experience with tractors =) Got one to move rocks around, some minor work like moving around mulch and hopefully being able to move not too heavy pallets for stuff we ship from the house (with forks mounted on the bucket)

I have few questions about it and hoped someone could help me to understand it better =)

First - general question - what I should do first to make sure it will not get destroyed prematurely? I do not know exact year of the machine, but it got diesel 4 cylinder motor.

FEL seems to be aftermarket or custom. Bucket is quite rusted and cutting edge has "smile" - i planed to try to straighten it out using bottle jack technique I found somewhere on the forum. But this will not fix rusted pinholes. Should I plan to reweld bucket, or it is easier to buy bucket instead? I could not find anything that looks like would mount on this loader...

View attachment 595436

On hydralics control block (not sure what it is called correctly) there are couple holes on the bottom and i see some amount of oil getting out of it. I wander if this is normal and perhaps I am overloading it, or perhaps something is wearing out?

View attachment 595428

There is also some regulator with japanese text on it. My phone could not pick it up for translation. Perhaps someone knows what this regulator know is for?

View attachment 595429

Would it be possible to add another attachment, like grapple (which would require separate hydraulic switch I guess) to this?

View attachment 595430
View attachment 595431

Should I bother about these lines? Or just wait till they break and buy replacement? And where I can get such replacements?

View attachment 595432

How long such tire might last and what is the best source to get new tires? It is 8.3 - 22 one. Also, where I can such tire ti be installed? Is it DIY job or I has to unbolt it and take to tire shop? Any tire shop?

View attachment 595437

How tricky it is to replace brakes and clutch on tractor? These seems to be fine right now, but just trying to figure out what to prepare for in regards of things that should be wearing out eventually.

Also, this tractor does not have seat belt. And I am not seeing place to bolt one. How people add seat belt in such situations? Also, do they?

Any other advice to first-time tractor, and specifically D1650, user? =)

Question #1: Keep oil in it ( it's made it probably 35 yrs. already....they are pretty bullet proof. Keep something heavy on the 3 point hitch!! It can be very easy to turn a tractor over when using a front end loader so figure out something to create counter weight and go SLOW until you really learn the machine! Read up online about front loader safety and ALWAYS carry a load as low as possible.

Q2: you have a typical Japanese FEL, I doubt you will find a replacement bucket. I would ignore any "rot" until it creates a problem and then weld in patches.

Q3:Leaking oil/fluid is never normal. I'm not familiar with that specific machine but I would assume it is a leaking o ring or seal. If it creates a problem, carefully take it apart and inspect components.;If it is simply weeping, I wouldn't worry until it is more of an issue.

Q4: No Idea. Mark its position and move it, then cycle the hydraulics on that circuit and see if you can tell what it effected. Return to original position if/when necessary.

Q5: Sure, there are several companies that offer a 3rd function kit. I would start with TBN member Everything Attachments .com, Bailey Hydraulics, RL Long to name a few.

Q6: I would probably replace the hydraulic hose. Our local farm stores carry standard fixed length hoses. Some NAPA stores make custom hoses or any hydraulic shop can make a new one.

Q7: I wouldn't worry about a few weather cracks, until it creates a chronic issue, simply keep them. My MTE 2000D had weather cracked rice tires when I bought it and worked just fine for 10 yrs. The only reason I replaced them then was because I tore a side wall out of one on a tree stump. As far as replacing them, there are still a lot of supplies for R1 tread 8.3x22 tires....shop online or check with local dealer.

Q8: Brakes are super easy. If like mine, take back tire off, remove a cover and access shoes. Clutch is a bigger issue but it is a Saturday job if you have basic tools, mechanical ability and a place to do it.

Q9: I purchased a generic seatbelt on Ebay and fabricated anchor points. Do you have ROPS? If not, I wouldn't add a seatbelt!

Only other thing I can think to mention is these tractors are very narrow/ potentially unstable on hills or when using your FEL. If the rear rims are mounted with the dish set inward, swap them around so they create the widest stance possible. I did the same thing on my tractor and against some online opinion, did the same with the fronts ( 10 yrs of FEL use with no issues).

Also, you will quickly learn that without power steering, turning with a loaded FEL is difficult but as long as you are moving making turns will be much easier.

averagejoe1 · Mar 14, 2019

Thank you so much!! And yes, it already has ROPS, but I wanted to add seat belt for additional safety.

Dave M7040 · Apr 11, 2019

A few additional comments.

Notice the links between the bucket cylinders and the bucket. These allow you to roll the bucket back to be like a trough so material does not roll out.

The temptation is to tilt the bucket forward so the cutting edge is vertical and then use this edge to push or grade. Bad idea This link amplifies forces on the cylinder and can and will cause expensive damage.
The bucket should always be level to the ground any time there will be any pushing with the bucket.

The loader valve has two design concepts. The spools, which are the real valves, are manufactured with such tight clearances that no seals are needed. Clearances of 0.0005 which no ordinary mechanic could measure.

At the end of the spools there are metal caps. These caps provide unique features such as float which allows the loader arms to float up and down while you back up to level material.

I would be inclined to tolerate the leaks until they become serious. Opening them now may just result in an inoperable loader. A new valve, perhaps with three spools at some time in the future, would provide an economical way to control a grapple on your bucket.

Heavy ballast on the 3 pt hitch will improve safely, increase traction, and make the steering with a full bucket easier. The ballast you make should be wide and low. Not a vertical drum filled with concrete. Concrete weights 150# per cubic foot..

I need to make certain you fully understand the risks of hydraulic leaks. Read the following carefully.

Replace the hoses. Do not make usual mistake of not marking where each end of each hose goes. Often owners mix things up, then crazy things start happening

Dave M7040

CobyRupert · Apr 12, 2019

What is going on with the bucket link on the far side? Is it bent or is it a cable? Strangely enough it seems the right length in a contorted way.
...but maybe not: the far hydraulic cylinder looks more extended than the closer cylinder. Something is out of whack.

Is your rear tire really soft? And what is stuck between the tire and the rim?

averagejoe1 · Apr 12, 2019

Dave M7040 said:
A few additional comments.

Notice the links between the bucket cylinders and the bucket. These allow you to roll the bucket back to be like a trough so material does not roll out.

The temptation is to tilt the bucket forward so the cutting edge is vertical and then use this edge to push or grade. Bad idea This link amplifies forces on the cylinder and can and will cause expensive damage.
The bucket should always be level to the ground any time there will be any pushing with the bucket.

Just to clarify - does this apply only to forward motion with bucket facing forward, or can a roll the bucket forward and backdrag to level material? I saw this technique often on youtube done by bobcat operators, but now not sure if this is a bad idea.

Dave M7040 said:
The loader valve has two design concepts. The spools, which are the real valves, are manufactured with such tight clearances that no seals are needed. Clearances of 0.0005 which no ordinary mechanic could measure.

At the end of the spools there are metal caps. These caps provide unique features such as float which allows the loader arms to float up and down while you back up to level material.

I would be inclined to tolerate the leaks until they become serious. Opening them now may just result in an inoperable loader. A new valve, perhaps with three spools at some time in the future, would provide an economical way to control a grapple on your bucket.

It definitely doesn't leak bad. I just noticed some wet area around caps. So I guess I will keep going with it as is until it starts losing fluid.

Question about float feature - (and sorry for potential dumb question) is it inherent feature of such valvle with such metal cap? How I would "activate" float feature? Perhaps some video on youtube to show it in action?

Dave M7040 said:
Heavy ballast on the 3 pt hitch will improve safely, increase traction, and make the steering with a full bucket easier. The ballast you make should be wide and low. Not a vertical drum filled with concrete. Concrete weights 150# per cubic foot..

I got 3-pt class 2 hitch adapter and a hitch carrier. I plan to put a few rocks on it and tie them to the carrier. Should give me up to 500# hanging low on the back.

Dave M7040 said:
I need to make certain you fully understand the risks of hydraulic leaks. Read the following carefully.

Replace the hoses. Do not make usual mistake of not marking where each end of each hose goes. Often owners mix things up, then crazy things start happening

Thank you! Did not realize danger of it! How far such leak may shoot? Is it something I should be concerned with while sitting at the seat, or it is dangerous if body parts are very close to the fluid line?

Thank you so much Dave!!!

averagejoe1 · Apr 12, 2019

CobyRupert said:
What is going on with the bucket link on the far side? Is it bent or is it a cable? Strangely enough it seems the right length in a contorted way.
...but maybe not: the far hydraulic cylinder looks more extended than the closer cylinder. Something is out of whack.

Is your rear tire really soft? And what is stuck between the tire and the rim?

So bucket link... Whoever owned it before me welded in piece of rebar in there. And looks like they bent it (which does not surprise me). Since then Ialready broke that piece of rebar, bought a thick wall piece of pipe and welded in it in there. Quality of my welds are horrible (first time using stick welder, and had no enough power for it), but so far it held to my (ab)use.

Tires appears hard (btw, what PSI I should be putting in, given that tires are cracked a bit?). The stuck piece is a wood chip - given that it is a tubed wheel, I guess that chip will not do any damage? tried to pull it out, but looks like i will not be able to remove it without deflating tire.

Dave M7040 · Apr 12, 2019

averagejoe1 said:
Just to clarify - does this apply only to forward motion with bucket facing forward, or can a roll the bucket forward and backdrag to level material? I saw this technique often on youtube done by bobcat operators, but now not sure if this is a bad idea.

It definitely doesn't leak bad. I just noticed some wet area around caps. So I guess I will keep going with it as is until it starts losing fluid.

Question about float feature - (and sorry for potential dumb question) is it inherent feature of such valvle with such metal cap? How I would "activate" float feature? Perhaps some video on youtube to show it in action?

I got 3-pt class 2 hitch adapter and a hitch carrier. I plan to put a few rocks on it and tie them to the carrier. Should give me up to 500# hanging low on the back.

Thank you! Did not realize danger of it! How far such leak may shoot? Is it something I should be concerned with while sitting at the seat, or it is dangerous if body parts are very close to the fluid line?

Thank you so much Dave!!!

Remember another fact with your hydraulic system. It has a pressure relief valve. It will not pick up more weight than it should before the relief valve opens and saves the loader. If you pick up a bucket of material, and with the bucket now raised off the ground, you start adding more weight to the bucket, now the relief valve is no longer in the circuit. The hydraulic oil is locked in place. Keep adding weight and something, perhaps a hose will break.

Backing up with a slight tilt on the bucket is not bad, The bucket will ride over obstructions. Going forward the bucket will catch on an obstruction and then feel the full weight of the tractor's momentum.

The distance a leak can spray is very variable depending upon what you are asking the loader to do. If the loader is working, then system pressure are high.... how far will your garden hose spay. The garden hose is running around 60 psi, 100 psi if you live close to a municipal water treatment plant. Your hydraulic system will be over 2,000 psi.... it can spray a tiny jet a long way.

Dave M7040