Governor on ANL330WB

[milkman]

Hopefully someone here has dealt with this. I've searched for governor adjustment and all I can find deals with engine RPM. The problem I'm having on my BCS 735 is with the response of the governor as the load changes. If I'm running along and hit a tough spot, that requires more power, the engine pulls way down before the governor reacts. Loaned out the tiller and it's been doing this ever since, I think it was tinkered with then. Runs and starts great otherwise, just lugs way down before governor kicks in. I could just call Joel, but he has lots to do and maybe someone, who has been able to correct this, can answer.

 

[milkman]

The engine model in the title should have been ALN 330WB, but after some more digging, I found a link that helped although it is not too detailed. Might come in handy for some others.
http://www.bcsamerica.com/uploads/2013/03/Acme-215W-290W-330W.pdf

 

[swilkson]

I have that same engine on my SEP Mainline Mountaineer. Governor adjustment is accomplished by releasing the screw at the top of the governor arm and sliding the horizontal throttle rod , then re-clamping it. Your rod needs to be slid forward. It is a trial and error exercise.

 

[milkman]

Thanks, I did make the adjustment described in the link that I posted and you're right, I had to loosen the screw and slide the clamp forward on the rod. It made a big difference, but it's not exactly as responsive as I think it should be. I will make some more adjustments in small increments till I get it right. Glad you said that it's a trial and error exercise, now I know that I can make it better.

 

[mrrog]

Hi Guys, I just want to take this moment to tell you how much appreciation that I have for your sharing advice and boundless knowledge. I am new to the site. I bought an old BCS 735 tractor with a 26" rototiller and sickle bar mower from Craig's List, a couple of weeks ago. Without the information on this forum, I would be lost. It seems that the experienced users have more information than the dealers are willing to share or have the time to explain. I've found many useful links and threads that deal with my exact machine. I had to look here to find out how to remove that **** combination dipstick and crank case breather. After being frustrated for a week trying to download the correct engine diagrams for the Acme ALN 330 WB I found the source here. An actual "English version"
Now that I've bared all, I have a dumb Question: The dipstick has a high/ low level indicator. My transmission is filled with a clear oil that comes well above[ the high marker. Any 90 weight oil that I have ever seen is black. Can overfilling damage anything? Could the clear oil be a synthetic? Or should I just change it out and refill to the full marker? Thanks for your help. Mr. Rog

 

[swilkson]

It is interesting to hear that you have gained some improvement by sliding the clamp forward on the rod. On mine, the opposite was necessary. One other thing that does make a difference is the position of the crank arm on the top of the throttle butterfly rod. We have to see that it isn't reaching the end of it's stroke in either direction.

 

[SageBrush]

My regular gear oil is dark amber, but that can vary between brands. I have used some synthetics that are a "honey" color. How does it smell? No tellin whats in there. On anything used, I change all fluids/oils and check grease, torque all fasteners.

If I had to guess, it may have hydo oil in it? That's a light almost clear oil sometimes used in gear boxes like my Kubota and my JD, so its not unheard of.

 

[milkman]

According to the instructions in the link I provided, hold the governor arm fully forward and hold the Carb fully open and tighten teh clamp. I have since moved the clamp rearward slightly it seems to be working well now, thanks to the suggestion that it might have to be fine tuned after adjusting according to the directions.

 

[mrrog]

Thanks, Sagebrush, I'll just change it out and eliminate one variable.