Grading with a subcompact to take out a slope

[dmbtree82]

So I don't even have my tractor yet, but am already thinking of things to do with it. I should be taking delivery of my JD 1025r with loader and 60" deck on friday; which I got for some land I purchased and will be building on. The whole lot has a pretty good slope on it and there is part by where the house will be that we want to level off. I was trying to determine if this is something I can slowly chip away at myself with my new toy. Its old farm field and from some hand digging I've done for my shed and tree planting it seems like it should be pretty nice loam type dirt I guess (I'm new to dirt identification, so this really is a guess). I was thinking about getting something (box blade??) to start at the top, tear up the ground, and then use the loader to move it away. The area I'm going to want to work on is probably less than 100'x100'. Does this seem feasible or am I out of my league with the tractor? Any suggestions on implements to rip the ground with or overall suggestions? I ordered with turf tires as I plan on most of its life being used for mowing. Will the turf tires be ok with this work as well?

This doesn't need to be a quickly done project as we haven't even started building yet.

Do you think I can do something similar to put in a 12'x220' driveway?

Thanks for the advice in advance.

 

[ovrszd]

Yes your new tractor will complete the task. Almost anything can be done if you have the patience. Kinda like eating a bowl of cereal with a baby spoon versus a table spoon. Just takes time. These projects will actually teach you how to run your tractor. I'd suggest a BB with rippers to loosen the soil and pile it. Then carry it with the FEL. Remember,,,,, patience.....

 

[bcp]

If the house foundation will be on some of your fill, you need to do more than just dump and level the dirt.

Bruce

 

[RDrancher]

Good advice from both Richard and Bruce. The learning curve can be pretty steep on sloping ground (no pun intended). Be careful.

 

[jeff9366]

My suggestion would be a Rear Blade, AKA Angle Blade, WITH OFFSET, for your primary task.

You can adjust left-to-right tilt on a Rear Blade with the Lifting Rod on the right side of your Three Point Hitch.

You can order skids for the ends of an angle blade which gives it limited capability to pull dirt from one place to another like a Box Blade.

You would probably want a five foot, or five foot six inch width Rear Blade. The goal is for Rear Blade to cover tire tracks when pulled angled.

Sod will have to be off, or broken, and you will have to wait for one day after a good rain to move dirt.

LINKS:

RB15 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride

RB16 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride

 

[Ed of all trades]

A rear potato plow with a smaller tooth on it will work better for breaking sod and hard pan if you work that deep. That is what I use on my sub massey.

 

[/pine]

As long as you have access you can dig a full basement with a box blade...it takes some time relocating the displaced material but very doable...

 

[dmbtree82]

Glad to know it can be done and thanks for the info so far.

Some more info...

I'll probably want to shave off close to 6' on the high side. The house will not be sitting on the area where the material gets moved to; I'll probably actually put it in front of the house after construction. I'm guessing for the driveway I'll need to scrape down about 8-10" before bringing in large stone and modified.

Jeff,

I don't think a back blade will break through the existing sod and roots very easily, thats why I was thinking box blade.

With the BB and potato plow; would one have a benefit or be better than the other? If the BB will do the job that may be a more useful tool down the line.

Will my turf tires handle this or should I see if I can switch to R4s still?

 

[jeff9366]

A potato plow is a single shank implement. No too much draft force.

A Box Blade will have from four to eight shanks, therefore requires tractor weight in proportion.

Buy the HEAVIEST Box Blade you can afford, the width of your tires or slightly wider. If you get one too light, it will not cut. A Box Blade is the most common implement used as a counterbalance to FEL loads, not only will a counterbalance keep rear tires on the ground; it also relieves front axle stress. Get a HEAVY Box Blade.

The learning curve on Box Blade operation is longer than most people think it will/should be.

R4's on a one ton tractor/loader will not hurt your lawn. I have R4s on my 5,400 pound tractor/loader and run over dry turf frequently without injury.

 

[cartod]

Glad to know it can be done and thanks for the info so far.

Some more info...

I'll probably want to shave off close to 6' on the high side. The house will not be sitting on the area where the material gets moved to; I'll probably actually put it in front of the house after construction. I'm guessing for the driveway I'll need to scrape down about 8-10" before bringing in large stone and modified.

Jeff,

I don't think a back blade will break through the existing sod and roots very easily, thats why I was thinking box blade.

With the BB and potato plow; would one have a benefit or be better than the other? If the BB will do the job that may be a more useful tool down the line.

Will my turf tires handle this or should I see if I can switch to R4s still?

The box blade with rippers is going to be the tool you want, don't make the mistake of buying the wrong size. My 3320 built this bridge/driveway in about 3 days (my first job ever with a BB). The hill was very steep. Go slow, always pull the dirt downhill when you can and keep the seatbelt on with the rops up. Make sure to post up some photos.