Tarheelfan
New member
I am looking to seed 4 acres of new lawn, I've been told that if I drill the seed in I wont need to straw? Is this correct, any suggestions appreciated
Grain Drill?
- Thread starter Tarheelfan
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flusher
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- Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
Tarheelfan said:
Grain drills that I'm familiar with sow the seed in rows spaced 6-8 inches apart. I don't think this is what you want for a lawn.
There are lawn seeders that are essentially drop seeders with leading and trailing rollers that are probably what you want.
I put in about 1/3 acre of Kentucky 31 tall fescue lawn in April 06 around my new house. First I plowed with my middle buster, rototilled twice, used my drop spreader to spread fertilizer and seed (separate passes) and rolled with my water-filled roller. Didn't use straw cover. Watered for 45 minutes twice a day in May and June and then 3 times a day in July, Aug, Sep. Got a nice thick lawn now.
Rara Avis
Veteran Member
OP
Tarheelfan
New member
I have a cultipacker, if I spread the seed and then ran over it with the cultipacker would I still need straw? At $4 a bale in my area, I am try to find the best way seed 4 acres , an overseeder is more than I can spend right now. Any suggestions
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Tarheelfan said:
The answer to your question is a definate MAYBE.
Applying straw has less to do with how the seed is planted than several other factors. Primarily, straw cover is applied to (A) prevent/reduce soil erosion until there's enough cover to hold the soil in place, and (B) to help hold moisture in the soil by reducing direct sunlight from evaporating that moisture. Grass seed doesn't need, nor WANT to be planted very deep. Actually it only needs good soil contact and will germinate and grow just as well if seeded directly on the surface. The trick is to get that soil contact. Most soil conservation districts/county AG extention programs, when involved in government subsidized programs where grass is being seeded insist on using a cultipacker AFTER seeding, regardless of how the seed is applied. Some even require certain brands/models of seeders. The #1 choice seemes to be a Brillion Sure Stand or Brillion Landscapers seeder. They merely drop seed and roll it in with an integral cultipacker wheel.
The majority of "no till" grass seeders, slit seeders, turf renovators, and overseeders are intended to seed directly into established turf. They'll plant in fresh, bare soil, but are really out of their bailywick in that situation. They "dig" through existing turf to find dirt to get that direct soil contact for the seed they leave behind.
Most grain drills with a small seed attachment use the disc openers to stir the soil, then the small seeder drops grass seed on the fresh soil, then "cover chains" drag behind the drill to mix the seed with the top 1/4" or so of the soil. They don't actually "drill" the grass seed. Seed through the grain drilling portion of that drill, and most likely, seed will be far too deep for grass seed. A "good way" but not the "best way" to plant grass.
So, if you have fairly level ground, not subject to erosion problems (wind or water) , and forsee an ample supply of moisture in the months directly after seeding, straw mulching isn't a requirement regardless of how you seed.
Brillion Farm Equipment Online
http://www.brillionfarmeq.com/productpdf/26_SureStands.pdf
North Dakota
Silver Member
I'd rent a grass seeder if possible. It would be a great benefit if you could mulch no matter what method is used.
