jonsstihl
Veteran Member
Finally got around to adjusting the valves.
remove muffler,
remove hood (it comes off with the hood only a little lifted up) if you raise it too high you scratch the paint with the wiper arm, and it hits the fuel tank frame if the angle is too steep.
drain fuel tank, remove fuel line from fuel filter housing
disconnect various lines and remove washer fluid tank and coolant tank from bracket and remove A/C compressor from bracket (A/C lines dont flex enough to leave the compressor on the bracket and just move out of the way)
the clutch rod actually goes through the fuel tank frame so I had to remove the dash cover and pull the clutch rod into the cab to get the fuel tank frame out
now you have enough room to remove the fuel tank with frame and baffle as a unit. (baffle does not come off with tank in place)
I like having room to work so I opted to remove the fuel tank.
now you have enough room to actually start adjusting the valves, remove the valve cover and get to work
i loosened the glow plugs completely but left them in the holes so nothing would fall in (with my luck...) The engine is actually harder to turn over with the fan than I thought. I had a rubber strap wrench on the fan hub but it was slipping so I thought maybe the fuel pump was compressing fuel so I slacked off the fuel lines at the nozzles but that didn't help (dont do that) with the key off the injection pump is not commanding fuel so it is not the cause of the resistance. once I grabbed the actual fan with my hands and tried turning it I got it to turn over.
I didn't bother to take off the loader mount to see the timing window. when you have the valve cover off it is pretty obvious which is the TDC and which is the overlap position.
Mine happened to have a few valves that we a little tight but nothing scary and that was at 886 Hrs so a few hrs overdue but not too much.
throttle cables had to come off the pump lever because they passed through the fuel tank frame, which comes off with the tank as a whole unit, tank frame and baffle.
hardest part is getting the bolts back on the fuel tank frame. the holes are in behind other brackets and hard to get too. Anyone ever tried hand starting a bolt in a hole with a flex socket and 18 inch extension... tiny hands would help but unfortunately mine are adult size that is one of the reasons why I chose to remove the fuel tank.
I just have a few things left to put back on definitely doable in one day by an amateur in his garage. the next valve adjustment will be faster, I lost a lot of time trying to just move the A/C bracket over instead of removing
remove muffler,
remove hood (it comes off with the hood only a little lifted up) if you raise it too high you scratch the paint with the wiper arm, and it hits the fuel tank frame if the angle is too steep.
drain fuel tank, remove fuel line from fuel filter housing
disconnect various lines and remove washer fluid tank and coolant tank from bracket and remove A/C compressor from bracket (A/C lines dont flex enough to leave the compressor on the bracket and just move out of the way)
the clutch rod actually goes through the fuel tank frame so I had to remove the dash cover and pull the clutch rod into the cab to get the fuel tank frame out
now you have enough room to remove the fuel tank with frame and baffle as a unit. (baffle does not come off with tank in place)
I like having room to work so I opted to remove the fuel tank.
now you have enough room to actually start adjusting the valves, remove the valve cover and get to work
i loosened the glow plugs completely but left them in the holes so nothing would fall in (with my luck...) The engine is actually harder to turn over with the fan than I thought. I had a rubber strap wrench on the fan hub but it was slipping so I thought maybe the fuel pump was compressing fuel so I slacked off the fuel lines at the nozzles but that didn't help (dont do that) with the key off the injection pump is not commanding fuel so it is not the cause of the resistance. once I grabbed the actual fan with my hands and tried turning it I got it to turn over.
I didn't bother to take off the loader mount to see the timing window. when you have the valve cover off it is pretty obvious which is the TDC and which is the overlap position.
Mine happened to have a few valves that we a little tight but nothing scary and that was at 886 Hrs so a few hrs overdue but not too much.
throttle cables had to come off the pump lever because they passed through the fuel tank frame, which comes off with the tank as a whole unit, tank frame and baffle.
hardest part is getting the bolts back on the fuel tank frame. the holes are in behind other brackets and hard to get too. Anyone ever tried hand starting a bolt in a hole with a flex socket and 18 inch extension... tiny hands would help but unfortunately mine are adult size that is one of the reasons why I chose to remove the fuel tank.
I just have a few things left to put back on definitely doable in one day by an amateur in his garage. the next valve adjustment will be faster, I lost a lot of time trying to just move the A/C bracket over instead of removing
