Graphite spray on "knuckle" joints

[MuncyBob]

I have used several greases/lubes on these "joints" during the 5 or 6 hours lube process but a lot of the work the PT does is very dusty and I spend a lot of time cleaning these areas before applying lube. I do have an almost full can of a graphite "dry" spray lubricant and was thinking applying this before doing the dusty work might help to cut down on the dirt/dust that seems to adhere to these areas. Any problems in using this type of lube in these areas?

 

[BEK]

I have not used graphite on my 1445 but I have used Molydysulphide dry spray on lube since it was new on the stearing cylinder ball joints. I have not seen any wear in the joints and they do not turn into fuzz balls when mowing as the dust just falls off.

 

[MuncyBob]

Sounds like something I should try. I use the bucket frequently to load/unload sawdust and would love for it all to blow off the joints when I run the leaf blower after a job. Is this something to be had at local car parts stores?

 

[BEK]

I usually buy the stuff through my business from Grainger or McMaster Carr.

 

[DHS]

I used super lube dri film for several years. This spring I had trouble finding the product.

I started using Slip-Plate Aerosol this spring and it works well so far. It appears to coat thicker than super lube and seems to last longer.

Both products keep the joints free from grease and dirt build up.

SLIP Plate®

Dale

 

[toy]

I have used several greases/lubes on these "joints" during the 5 or 6 hours lube process but a lot of the work the PT does is very dusty and I spend a lot of time cleaning these areas before applying lube. I do have an almost full can of a graphite "dry" spray lubricant and was thinking applying this before doing the dusty work might help to cut down on the dirt/dust that seems to adhere to these areas. Any problems in using this type of lube in these areas?

I have wondered about that too, when you use oil dirt just sticks to it and grinds away. A friend of mine that has had a pt since about 98 I beleive he said, any way he told me that he caught the oil when he changed oil in his pt keeping it clean as possible and used it to lube his balll joints. He said that he keept an oil can with him all the time when working his pt and keept the joints wet with that. Only repair that he told me that he had did to his was he had a pump go down about a year ago, other than that he said that he hadn't even had to change a hose out hope mine holds up that good.

 

[MuncyBob]

Slip Plate looks interesting too and appears to rely mainly on graphite. I think the Easy Slide graphite product I have (which I bought at Tractor Supply Co.) may be something I will try initially. I wonder if a teflon spray may also be suitable?

 

[ponytug]

I tend to use the dry teflon for items not under much load. Latches on the back of horse trailers, window slides, door trim etc. I use the moly for items under high pressure load. I also have some silicone grease (SiLube or something) that was recommended for silencing squeaks and low duty, but higher pressure loads.
McMaster has a great selection of greases and sprays.

For corrosion protection and lubricating, I often use Tuff-Oil. I dilute down 2:1 and spray it on. It was the only lubricant that I had ever found that kept aluminum shutters from corroding next to the ocean. I love it for sliding metal. It can make really schlocky pieces move like swiss watches.
Welcome to Fluoramics Inc.
I've had cars that really benefited from the oil treatment (an old saab) and ones that had no impact (newer ford focus). YMMV- literally. But as an oil or grease to deal with sticky parts, the stuff is amazing.

Good luck,

Peter

Slip Plate looks interesting too and appears to rely mainly on graphite. I think the Easy Slide graphite product I have (which I bought at Tractor Supply Co.) may be something I will try initially. I wonder if a teflon spray may also be suitable?