Greasable Pins/Bushings with locks on both sides

   / Greasable Pins/Bushings with locks on both sides #1  

pekabu

Platinum Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2003
Messages
820
Location
NH
Tractor
TC24D
I've finally started on my forks for my TC24 and I'm almost done. I purchased a quick attach setup for my 12la loader, and finally put it on tonight. On my old bucket the pins are greasable, and have a threaded bolt on one side. The quick attach setup does not so the pins slide out. So I either need a greasable pin that won't slide out. Here is a link to a pic of what I am roughly looking for. I believe my pins are 1" thick. Anyone know of a source?

Thanks
Dave
coolfj40_2021_315088547
 
   / Greasable Pins/Bushings with locks on both sides #3  
If the original pins were held in by a flange with a hex screw, how will you keep the replacement pins from sliding out or turning? The other style pins (at least those on my Kubotas) have a diametral hole through one end for a retaining pin or bolt that also passes through matching holes in one of the pin bosses welded to the attachment. That retaining pin keeps the pivot pin from sliding out or turning in the pin bosses.

My Kubota B2400 loader (LA 351?) uses 1" OD greasable pins with a 5/16" or so hole in one end for the retaining pin. If 1" OD is what you need, and if they are the correct length, they might work.

If you can't find a ready-made pin, and have to make your own, consider phosphor bronze if your loader boom does not have replaceable bushings. The Kubota B2400 does not have replaceable bushings, and I was concerned that when the permanent "bushings" (just tube welded to the boom arms and then presumably bored to size) wore they could only be replaced by replacing the entire boom end or having them bored for a bushing.

So I replaced the case hardened steel pins that came with it with 1" phosphor bronze rod that I rifle drilled for a grease zerk and drilled for a retaining pin. Phosphor bronze is fairly strong (60,000 psi tensile strength if I recall correctly) and is a common sacrificial bearing material that slides more easily than steel on steel and wears much faster than the steel boom arm ends. After about four years of fairly hard use the bronze pins show little wear, and the boom ends seem not to have worn at all.
 
   / Greasable Pins/Bushings with locks on both sides
  • Thread Starter
#5  
My Kubota B2400 loader (LA 351?) uses 1" OD greasable pins with a 5/16" or so hole in one end for the retaining pin. If 1" OD is what you need, and if they are the correct length, they might work.

So the original pins had a hole on one side that a bolt would go through. On one side of the loader there is a place where the bolt holds the pin in place. It's only held in one place. In this case it's a piece of pipe cut, welded, with a hole the same size as the one in the pin. This is one solution. I could do this but to be honest I am looking for easy.

Does the kubota pins have a shoulder on one side, and retaining pin on the other?

Thanks
Dave
 
   / Greasable Pins/Bushings with locks on both sides #6  
Dave:

The Kubota pins have a hole in one end and the other end has a recessed grease fitting. There is no flange; the pin is 1" OD all the way, so it will go in or come out either way.

The elegant solution would be to make a flange out of say 1/4" X 1 1/2" bar, drill a 1" hole, stick the pinl through it, and tack weld the flange to end of the pin. I doubt the minimum heat required just to tack the flange to the pin would seriously soften the pin bearing surface, which is 1 1/2" or so away (of stick the pin body in water to keep it cool), and I suspect the pin is only surface hardened, so the overall strength would not be compromised.

The less elegant solution would be to take a 1/4" rod, weld a washer axial off one end of the rod that your flange retaining bolt will pass through, and put the rod through the hole in the pivot pin and secure it with the existing flange retaining bolt. If the rod sticks out of the pin only an inch or so to reach the retaining bolt, the twisting force on the pin probably will not bend the rod.

I have the length of the pin at home. Want me to send it to you this evening?
 
   / Greasable Pins/Bushings with locks on both sides
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks, the pins on your Kubota sound like the same ones on my NH. I bought the materials today to make pin locks on the quick attack just like on my bucket. The braket for the quick attach is too wide anyway, so I need to shim it up so it doesn't slide back and forth so much.
 
   / Greasable Pins/Bushings with locks on both sides #8  
I'm not sure how you're going to make your attachment, but doing like Charles says, to make your own is an easy way to get around finding the exact one that fits. Plus you have the option of making the attachment where you want, easy to get to. I had to do something similar when helping my wife make her bucket grapple. I used some scrap ejector pins which I drilled and tapped for grease. Then I welded a tab on them and counter bored for some low head socket screws for the attachment. Albeit a little bit of work to do, they turned out perfect for my use. I also recessed my zerk fittings.



 
   / Greasable Pins/Bushings with locks on both sides #9  
You do good work, Rob. You even shaped the tabs to match the brackets!

But maybe I beat you on one thing: my grease grooves are spiral (albeit by hand). But then you probably positioned your tabs so that there is no radial load on the flat. Curses, foiled again!
 
   / Greasable Pins/Bushings with locks on both sides #10  
Thanks Charles,
I've seen plenty of your work and I know you know what you're doing too !!:)
I surface ground three equally spaced flats on the pins and drilled holes from each one to the center hole. But the flats don't go outside the length of the bushings, so there is an entire bearing surface on each end. That one I shared was to show how the grease works it's way on the flat, but the real bushings are full length. They are hardened and lamina coated. I keep the ones I replace from my injection mold repairs for tractor projects.
I've done the spirol grease grooves too, and they may be better than the flats. I usually do them on the lathe with about a 1" thread pitch. Man, the carriage moves fast that way. But these pins are ejector pins which are cased and nitrided, so the surface is super hard. Grinding is easier for me.
Anyway, I wanted to share with pekabo how you can weld little ears to the pin as retainers.
 

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