Grease?

TWINKLE_TOES · Oct 29, 2000

I have a new TL421 loader and BT751 backhoe and at 10 hours I greased it. at twenty hours I ran out of grease in the gun. I believed that the gun contained Molybdenum Disulfide as recommended in the loader manual.(High quality grease designated "extreme pressure" and containing Molybdenum disulfide is recommended)

The grease in the gun was "Marine Grease" identified as follows:
Base Type: Aluminum Complex
Color: Blue
N.L.G.I. No.2

Warning: Contains Mineral Oil,Aluminium Benzoate,Fatty acid Hydroxy Complexes and Calcium Dinonylnaphthalene Sulfonate.

Finally hear is the rub. It also contains this label:

:IMPORTANT:
Do not mix greases of different base type. Use a solvent to remove and clean out all traces of incompatable grease before repacking.

I usually use MOLY DISULFIDE from Case in most everything else, which is a Mineral base with Molybdenum Disulfide added.

I sure don't want to pull every Zerk and pin in the tractor and backhoe and remove every trace of incompatable grease.

Seems like both are mineral base even though the marine grease is a little elusive by stating the base type as "Aluminium Complex"

If anyone could help I would really appreciate it.

Bird · Oct 29, 2000

Twinkle Toes, my tractor manual says to use a "multipurpose type grease" and the loader manual says to use "SAE multipurpose grease." Not very specific. I think most lubricant manufacturers say to not mix the different types, and of course, in some applications that's probably important. But for our purposes, I don't think it's critical at all. I just wouldn't worry about it, if I were you so long as it has enough grease.

Bird

TWINKLE_TOES · Oct 29, 2000

I like the way you think, maybe cause I'm to darn lazy to "remove every trace". My tractor manual is the same as yours, it's reading the loader and backhoe manual that got me in trouble.

Billc · Oct 30, 2000

Maybe I'm wrong here, but I just look for a grease that has the NLGI #2 rating. I switch between brands all the time. It all depends on whether I'm shopping in Wally Mart or Farm and Tractor.

I've alway figured the rating is the key. Have I been wrong all this time?

TWINKLE_TOES · Oct 30, 2000

Bill,
I don't know if you have been wrong all this time or not. I have done it pretty much like you. I think Bird's common sense approach is right. In our applications keeping things greased is key.

I did send an email to CRC (Corrosion Reaction Consultants), manufacturer of the marine grease I used. The trade name is "Sta-Lube". They wrote the warning on the tube, they should be able to explain what it means.
I'll keep after them until they provide an answer or tell me to pound sand. I will post their answer, either way.

Billc · Oct 31, 2000

Thanks, please do keep us updated.

As to Bird, you're right, he overflows with common sense.

TWINKLE_TOES · Oct 31, 2000

I called CRC(Sta-Lube)technical assistance @ 800-521-3168. I talked with a chemist named Melody. I didn't have to pound sand. I received a pretty good grease 101 lecture. She was very helpful, and did not mix words. The greases I used are not compatible . Clean out the old grease and replace.

Most of the Zerks I have greased are for hinge pins and I will probably just squeeze more grease through them, maybe clean the easier ones. I did recheck the Kubota lube recommendations, my WORKSHOP MANUAL says "General Purpose Grease", my OPERATOR'S MANUAL (page 12) says Molybdenum Disulfide (EP)
Most (80%) of the greases on the market are a Lithium base so this problem is probably not as severe as it might sound. I got lucky by picking one of the most incompatible bases (Aluminum Complex) This grease is fine and dandy for wheel bearings on boat trailers. I would bet that a fair percentage of wheel bearing failures on boat trailers are due to mixing the Aluminium complex base with other base grease as opposed to salt or fresh water intrusion.

This is what I think I know after a day of research:
Use good quality E.P. (extreme pressure) grease meeting NLGI Grade-2 specs with an operating range of plus 325 degrees F to minus 10 degrees F. Try not to mix brands because different thickeners are used which may be incompatible and have lower heat resistance and shear stability. The most recognizable unsatisfactory mixtures, are those involving lithium and sodium greases, and clay and most soap greases. Don't mix synthetic and natural greases.

The attached URL contains a compatability table:

http://www.ampol.com.au/prods/greases/grease_compatability.html

Another link I stumbled on by CALTEK has recommendations of lubrications for blue, green, red and orange:
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/caltx_au/

Another link that reinforces what bird has posted about DELO 400: http://www.ampol.com.au/prods/delo/delo.html

Hope this helps if not call Melody and get the straight skinney. (how do you make one of those little upside down smiley faces on this board?)

Bird · Oct 31, 2000

Twinkle Toes, I don't know about upside down smiley faces, but if you click on the FAQ at the top of the page and then click on "Can I use HTML?" or scroll down, to read about MARKUP, you can find out how to do several things./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif/w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

And maybe the type of grease is more important than I thought, but then I don't suppose I've ever bought any of the Aluminum Complex grease.

Bird

TWINKLE_TOES · Oct 31, 2000

Thanks Bird,
Maybe you should get some of that fancy marine grease put it in your B2710 and then you could go fishen on your tractor./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif