Great Grandfathers MF135

[Kenfyoozed]

I know the model to be a 135. It has the round badge which says 135. The dash has a generator gauge, but i guess its actually a alternator gauge . right? After starting, i took the battery leads off, and she kept running. I thought the alternator might not have been charging, but i gusee it is. The fuel gauge isnt working either so your diagnosis seems to correct. Is there amy ill effects to leaving this switch unpluged or it not working correctly? The tractor seems to run fine otherwise.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I know the model to be a 135. It has the round badge which says 135. The dash has a generator gauge, but i guess its actually a alternator gauge . right? After starting, i took the battery leads off, and she kept running. I thought the alternator might not have been charging, but i gusee it is. The fuel gauge isnt working either so your diagnosis seems to correct. Is there amy ill effects to leaving this switch unpluged or it not working correctly? The tractor seems to run fine otherwise.

A simple diesel doesn't need ANY battery/alternator power once it's up and running. The engine will continue to run without a battery or charge from the alternator. The fact that it still runs is no indication of a charge from the alternator. The electrical system powers the starter, the lights and the gauges. No power is needed to run the engine itself.

The ammeter is labeled GENERATOR even on the alternator equipped 100 series.

Besides no chance of the fuel gauge working, disconnecting the oil pressure switch will essentially shut off the charging system. Without that switch your alternator won't be "excited" with the OEM wiring scheme. No "ill effects" OTHER than no charging and no power to fuel gauge circuit.

 

[Kenfyoozed]

I un plugged the the wires you mentioned. The battery was dead when I returned to it. When I attach the Positive lead I hear what i assume is the voltage regulator under the dash "clicking". How can i check to see if there is something draining the battery. WHere shoule I look next?

Also i know on most diesels that they need to warm a glow plug before it starts. Does this engine have anything of that sort? It starts just like a gasoline engine, just turn the key and its ready. Am I missing something?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I un plugged the the wires you mentioned. The battery was dead when I returned to it. When I attach the Positive lead I hear what i assume is the voltage regulator under the dash "clicking". How can i check to see if there is something draining the battery. WHere shoule I look next?

Also i know on most diesels that they need to warm a glow plug before it starts. Does this engine have anything of that sort? It starts just like a gasoline engine, just turn the key and its ready. Am I missing something?

No glow plugs, no pre-heater, just one of the easiest starting diesel engines known to man. I've owned my MF150 w/ AD3-152 Perkins for almost 37 years now. I've started it without a block heater or any other cold weather starting aids in temps as low as -12. Never failed to start.

Another common malady on that tractor is the ammeter + wire will go to ground.

Make certain you have the correct alternator for the way the tractor is wired. You have an external regulator. I've ran across a number of Massey's that had a new "3-wire" alternator with internal regulator installed.

 

[flusher]

I un plugged the the wires you mentioned. The battery was dead when I returned to it. When I attach the Positive lead I hear what i assume is the voltage regulator under the dash "clicking". How can i check to see if there is something draining the battery. WHere shoule I look next?

Also i know on most diesels that they need to warm a glow plug before it starts. Does this engine have anything of that sort? It starts just like a gasoline engine, just turn the key and its ready. Am I missing something?

I would check the connections to the ammeter and the fuel gauges. There are two threaded screw terminals on these gauges that are the connections for the wires. There's also a U-shape metal bracket that secures the gauge to the dashboard. That bracket is at ground potential. The screw terminals pass through holes in the bracket. There are small insulators on the bracket that the terminals pass through. It's possible that there's a short between one of the terminals and that bracket.

When I rewired my 1964 MF-135 diesel last summer I replaced the gauges. I noticed that there was a lot of crud on the small insulators on the terminal brackets.

 

[Kenfyoozed]

Thanks. Ill check that. Im starting to think that same way. Thers has to be an open circut somewhere.

 

[flusher]

Thanks. Ill check that. Im starting to think that same way. Thers has to be an open circut somewhere.

Hope you find your problem soon. Keep us informed so we don't have to reinvent the wheel if and when we MFers encounter this problem.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Hope you find your problem soon. Keep us informed so we don't have to reinvent the wheel if and when we MFers encounter this problem.

Always remember that the Ferguson/ Massey Ferguson tractors of that era were mostly a product of British design. Any attempts to rationalize their problems with an American mindset will almost always prove futile.

Watch a minimum of 3 episodes of Monte Python before attempting any home repairs and you'll do much better.

 

[ben5500]

and the life of brian.and the holy grail.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Always remember that the Ferguson/ Massey Ferguson tractors of that era were mostly a product of British design. Any attempts to rationalize their problems with an American mindset will almost always prove futile.

Watch a minimum of 3 episodes of Monte Python before attempting any home repairs and you'll do much better.

Monte Python.... that's great!!! LOL