Ground water heat pump?

[KentT]

For ponds, a minimum depth of 10' is recommended. That is the minimum you would want. The temperature gradients become and issue if it is any shallower. Size is also critical so as not to allow it to freeze.

paul

Thanks for the input. I think you just ruled out that possibility...

 

[heehaw]

several years ago i saw an add on device to help reduce air conditioning cost: this wouldn't work for heat, but: its a solenoid you put on your compressor, so when the compressor comes on, it opens a fine mist watering system to spray water on the coils: if your on a well, that would be pretty cool water, which is basicly what a geothermal system does: has anyone seen or tried anything like this?
heehaw

 

[mahlers]

What you're describing is basically the concept behind evaporative coolers (swamp coolers). They do work well. As water evaporates, it cools down because it takes energy to transition the water molecules from a liquid state to a gas state. That energy comes from the ambient air or the surface being cooled. Of all air conditioning devices, the true evap coolers are the most efficient - but they only work well in a very narrow range of conditions (right temperature and humidity). The downside is that your water source needs to be really good - well water is usually bad because it contains so many minerals. As the water evaporates, you'll get a layer of minerals all over the coils, which in the long run will lead to poor efficiency and an expensive repair bill. If you run the water through a reverse osmosis filter setup to take out the minerals, this should work pretty well.

 

[schmism]

As far as using city water, that has to be pretty costly. At an average of 3 GPM per ton, 9 to 12 GPM is typical. That is a lot of city water.

paul

your not acutally using the water.... it runs to a coil and back to the main. (heat exchanger is out by the water meter)


as for the comment of "warm water in the summer, cold in the winter"
as long as the water is above freezeing and below boiling (at the elivated pressure your running at) then your system will still "work" may not be as efficient as it could be with good temp gradients, but it would still work.

 

[KYErik]

your not acutally using the water.... it runs to a coil and back to the main. (heat exchanger is out by the water meter)

I am surprised at this possibility. I know the water lines are always under pressure so it would be hard for a leak in your piping to contaminate the neighborhood water supply. But- since you and your neighbors are drinking the water that goes through the heat exchanger- wouldn't the heat pump heat exchanger, solder etc. all have to be NSF approved for potable water?

I think this would make many neighbors nervous.

Do you just pay for two water meters on your property and run one backwards? How else would the water company be able to charge you for any leaks in your piping?

 

[mahlers]

I don't get how this works. Since you're taking water from the main, and then putting the water back into the main fairly close to where you took it, it doesn't seem like you'd have enough 'fresh' water to provide reasonable heat source. It seems like you're just circulating the same water around - unless you are using a LOT of water continuously or your water meter is a few thousand feet from your house.

Also, all of the utilities I've ever dealt with wouldn't even think of allowing someone to tap into their water main before the water meter - that part of the main is their property and they don't take kindly to people messing with it.