GT2544 Heavy Duty Mods

Yetii · Aug 14, 2007

JTKub...All I do is cut the grass (~2 acres) and sometimes pull a trailer around. The steering was so sloppy that you could turn the wheel half a turn and the wheels wouldn't move. Nothing else appears worn...but I will take a closer look when I start pulling stuff apart. It has been so dry that I haven't had to cut the grass for a couple of weeks...I guess this is as good a time as any to have a breakdown.
Morkai...I ordered it last week and it was arrived a couple of days later.

Anyone know if this is a known common problem?

Well it's not too bad, this and a faulty hydrostatic pump covered under warranty is all the problems I have had so far, which allot better than the neighbour with a cheap L 100 Series John Deere.

JSharp · Aug 14, 2007

Morkai, I can see good reason for the bracing if you'll be using any kind of loader. The frame is adequate I think for any of the factory accessories but add anything much heavier and I'd start to worry.

The steering setup on the older models reminds me of what I had on my old MTD/White L-12. The Cub has heavier parts but the mechanism is much similar. My L-12 always had sloppy steering once it got a few years on it and I didn't feel like spending the $ going through replacing all the parts that had worn.

Threads like this sometimes make me wonder what we're doing.

I'd like to get a Johnny Bucket and adapt or build a Cat 0 3-Point for my 2554. I have needs right now that could be satisfied with the tractor if it had those things.

But I wonder if my money wouldn't be better spent on an older "real" CUT or larger tractor and a smaller deck Zero Turn to use for mowing...

Morkai · Aug 14, 2007

I finally got to cut my grass, or should I say forest, and test the new steering. It still has some play in it, I think some play is just inherent in the design, but it's definitely tighter than it was. I did notice I seem to have some slop in my left front wheel though.

JSharp, I know what you mean. These things were never really designed for all that, but we love to push them. The frame on these is pretty strong really. I would rather they fully boxed the c-channel in though. That would make it super strong.

I blame JB for my FEL, I never thought of doing it until I saw that.

I originally just wanted a sleeve hitch for a box blade. I can get by fine without a FEL, this was more of a challenge/project for me and my new MIG I got a couple years ago. Next step will be the 3-pt. Speaking of that, check this out: Cat 0 3 point hitch kit They sell them on ebay starting at $135. Seems like it wouldn't be hard to build it, just build the mounting brackets and lift bar. Electric should be easier to build than a manual setup.

Morkai · Aug 19, 2007

Well, finished modifying my front gaurd, let me know what you think. I personally liked the way it looked before, but I had to make some clearance for the actuators. Time to paint...

Got it blasted and primed today, hopefully it'll be yellow by tomorrow afternoon.

You'll see later why I had to make clearance when I post some more pics of the whole project. You can also see how the 3rd mounting bolt fits in one of these pics. That main 2" bar is 3/8" thick, I'll break the CC in half before bending that stuff. I tend to err on the overkill side.

checkster · May 6, 2010

got anymore pics of your loader setup? id really like to see it.

thanks,
tom

cowboy2005 · Jun 12, 2010

Morkai said:
It's not a hard rebuild if yours is worn, the bearings are a couple bucks and so is the gear. I think the whole housing is about $40 or so and should be already setup. You do have to remove the dash, that's not too bad, just pull all the wiring connectors, and 4 bolts hold it on. You'd have to remove the wheel and cruise/brake levers of course, also take the throttle and choke cables loose at the engine. One thing I didn't do though, try to mark the steering arm so you can re-clock it easier when you reinstall, will save some time.

I had the same problem after 5 years of service. I have to cut along a ditch and the use the steering wheel to keep the tractor straight. This looks like the cause for me. I tried following these instructions after getting a replacement part on-line. I had a lot of trouble getting the dashboard off and never succeeded until i realized all i needed to do was remove the side panels of the tractor and remove the battery. You can reach down inside fairly easily to get at the gear and washers. Obviously i also had to remove the cotter pin underneath the tractor for the steering shaft. I do appreciate folks offering ways to fix this tractor and wanted to offer a little suggestion of my own.

JTKub · Jun 12, 2010

cowboy2005 said:
... I had a lot of trouble getting the dashboard off and never succeeded until i realized all i needed to do was remove the side panels of the tractor and remove the battery. You can reach down inside fairly easily to get at the gear and washers..

Exactly. You don't have to remove any of that. All the gear came out from underneath on mine and the upper shaft pulls straight out the top. It's an easy job. I had sheared the lower steering shaft and split open the steering gear housing on my 2005 model year 2544. I replaced it with used eBay parts since it would have been a ~3 week wait for parts. If your steering wheel winds up not centered, remove the nut that holds the steering wheel to the splined upper shaft, rotate it to where you need it and reinstall.

Joel

Morkai · Dec 19, 2010

JTKub said:
Exactly. You don't have to remove any of that. All the gear came out from underneath on mine and the upper shaft pulls straight out the top. It's an easy job. I had sheared the lower steering shaft and split open the steering gear housing on my 2005 model year 2544. I replaced it with used eBay parts since it would have been a ~3 week wait for parts. If your steering wheel winds up not centered, remove the nut that holds the steering wheel to the splined upper shaft, rotate it to where you need it and reinstall.

Joel

<Sorry for the long delay in reply>

Yeah, my gearbox split as well and I had it tig welded and it's still going so far. Getting sloppy, but prob just the bearings wearing. I did learn after braking the steering not to try and turn the wheels while stationary with the FEL on.

I would suggest welding the sheet metal plate that it bolts to like I did if you do much hard steering. It will allow a lot of flex.

I finally got my FEL completely finished (except for painting) and will try to put up some pics if anyone is still interested. I already have parts and steel to start building the 3pt hitch next. :thumbsup:

scoutcub · Dec 22, 2010

Morkai said:
<Sorry for the long delay in reply>

I finally got my FEL completely finished (except for painting) and will try to put up some pics if anyone is still interested. I already have parts and steel to start building the 3pt hitch next. :thumbsup:

Sure, love to see it! Really nice job on the front HD grill gaurd, impressive....

you gonna start producing/selling them??

JTKub · Dec 22, 2010

Morkai said:
<Sorry for the long delay in reply>

Yeah, my gearbox split as well and I had it tig welded and it's still going so far. Getting sloppy, but prob just the bearings wearing. I did learn after braking the steering not to try and turn the wheels while stationary with the FEL on. I would suggest welding the sheet metal plate that it bolts to like I did if you do much hard steering. It will allow a lot of flex.

I finally got my FEL completely finished (except for painting) and will try to put up some pics if anyone is still interested. I already have parts and steel to start building the 3pt hitch next. :thumbsup: