Happy hour at TSC

450EXC · Apr 19, 2005

I caved in and went down to TSC to buy a Rotary Cutter. Asked Manager for 10% off if I bought 2 or 3 attachments - no problem. That was too easy, probably could have gotten 15 %. Rolled out with a 5' Rotary Cutter, 6' Landscape Rake,
and a 6' Box Blade. Yee Ha.

Only had time to play with the rotary so far. Cut about 1 acre to plant trees from County tree sale, coming this weekend.

Worked great but came up with a few questions:

1) Does everyone drive right over stuff then cut it, or back into it. Only 4' x 1-1 1/2" scrubbrush so far but was worried about rubbing on bottom of tractor on hydraulic lines, etc. I have been keeping the loader bucket low to knock them down but some pop back up.

2) Anyone come up with good ideas for homemade chain or rubber guards, this thing is a missile launcher.

3)Does everyone have to use a 5' bar to get 3-point mounting brackets to line up? What a bear.

TomK · Apr 19, 2005

I knocked down about 3 acres of scrub oak with my LK3054 and 5' Ford rotary cutter. I found it worked best backing into the brush with the cutter than going forward over it. I welded angle iron the back of the cutter to keep the brush from bending the sheet metal into the blades. Tractor damage included one flat front tire, broken oil cap on front axel, tail light wires pulled loose under the transmission, and a lot of scratches on the paint. The cutter suffered a broken blade, and a lot of sheered sheer bolts on the PTO shaft. The LK3054 handled the abuse like a pro.

To line up the pins on your 3 point, attach the rigid arm on the left side first and use the adjustable link on the right side to line up the right pin if you need to. Adjust it back to level after you have everything hooked up if you need to.

TForan · Apr 19, 2005

TomK
Thanks for the tip about hooking up a 3 point. I put my first one on the other day and that would have helped.

Tony

450EXC · Apr 19, 2005

TomK
How did you do all that damage? Just by taking down the Oak?

KiotiJohn · Apr 20, 2005

You may find it a lot easier to loosend the stabilizers completely when hooking up. With the telescoping arms and stabilizers you shouldn't have too much problem doing it the way Tom suggested. Also, for the future, you may consider purchasing either Pat's EZ change system (which I have) or another type of quick attach hitch such as the Speeco from TSC, or Jiffy hitch (www.jiffyhitchsystems.com), or any of the others offering quick hitches. Make sure that the hitch you order has some adjustment for the hookup or off sized implements will have to have the pins modified.
John

450EXC · Apr 20, 2005

Sorry for the confusion, I meant the 3 pt brackets on the kk cutter. The bars from the rear to the front have a stressed bow in them when assembled. Pieces will go flying if it comes apart.

Still looking for any guard ideas. Larry

TomK · Apr 20, 2005

I don't know how the scrub brush you have compares to the scrub oak we have here, but it's very tough stuff. It’s a thick bush that has a relatively hard wood. I was knocking down stuff that was up to 4" in diameter and like you experienced, when you run over it using the FEL for protection it would spring back up and smack, grab, and scratch anything in it's path. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif I quickly learned it was best to back over it with the brush cutter to protect the soft underbelly of the tractor. But, that did not save me from the branches on the sides scratching the paint and the sharp stumps from puncturing the tires. The tractor did a great job, but neither me nor the tractor are as pretty as when we started. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I wish I had your landscape rake to clean up the debris.

450EXC · Apr 21, 2005

Thanks for the conformation. I'll back over most stuff now. My brush sounds easier though, 1 1/2" apple trees.

I'll be planting Red Oaks this weekend.
Thanks, Larry

KiotiJohn · Apr 21, 2005

Now that you've decided, I'll post my thoughts as well, which I meant to do when I got side tracked about the hooking up implements!
For just about anything that can pop up and drag across the bottom of your tractor, it's best to back into it. If 1" or greater in diameter, I think you'll find that if you SLOWLY back up to it, let it cut a little, and back a little over a few times, you'll be able to easily and safely cut a little larger without doing damage. The trick is in SLOWLY.
For most all other unwoody materials, going forward over it should be no problem. Some folks have built belly shields for their tractors to protect all the stuff underneath.
John