About a year ago I put some hardfacing on my bucket. I was surprised at what I found. I felt I had a good approach to the problem http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/112488-hard-facing-bucket.html?highlight=hardfacing Not enough HF, applied wrong? granite drive to much?
Hardfacing part 2
- Thread starter Hookblock
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DanD78
Platinum Member
Stoody 19 is a good choice as is 21, 31, 35 or wire such as 101,110. One thing to remember is if you have a half inch of material missing, You will need to build it up prior to hard facing. Hard facing materials should only be put on 2-3 layers. If you want a nice booklet on hard facing send me you address and I will send one to you.
I copied this post from your note above because it is right on the money and Stoody is a leader in hard surface materials. There are two schools of thought on hard surfacing.
-Build up the cutting edge so it wears off the weld instead of the base material. This must be replaced as it wears off.
-The basket weave pattern you used might be too large for the material you are moving and not deep enough. On large earth moving equipment the basket weave pattern is ment to trap loose material in the pockets of the weave and slow down the wear by making a cusion between the base steel and the material being moved. There is a lot of good information on the Stoody web site.
Dan
I copied this post from your note above because it is right on the money and Stoody is a leader in hard surface materials. There are two schools of thought on hard surfacing.
-Build up the cutting edge so it wears off the weld instead of the base material. This must be replaced as it wears off.
-The basket weave pattern you used might be too large for the material you are moving and not deep enough. On large earth moving equipment the basket weave pattern is ment to trap loose material in the pockets of the weave and slow down the wear by making a cusion between the base steel and the material being moved. There is a lot of good information on the Stoody web site.
Dan
Some pics of the build up, Dan the stoody info is good helped me out a lot. JB my drive is about 300' and is 3/4'' quartz, it was here when I got here. Pushed a lot of snow in the last year, I just use the loader in float and adj. the curl position. I am thinking taking the cutting edge off and putting a heavier one on.
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Scooby074
Super Member
I think you'll have more luck with the pattern you welded on the bucket edges in the last post. You should run 2 beads, one on top of the other to increase the hardface thickness. I think the"open X" pattern in the first pics was too open for the materials you were moving (it probably would be ok for sand / dirt) allowing the rock to dig into the bucket and not trap fine material to act like a cushion.
AndyMA
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Why not just bolt on or weld on an already hardened bucket edge? Sure a lot easier and will probably last much longer.
Andy
Andy
Eagleview
Veteran Member
I would expect nothing less than the wear you have encountered with the size of the driveway and the quartz material it is made of . A 9" angle grinder could not do a better job at grinding off the harfacing . As stated , the crosshatch is to trap dirt so you have dirt working dirt on the front face . But the lower face that is being dragged over the surface will need a bead quite often as it wears off .
scott_vt
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Good Evenin Andy,
Im with you, way to much welding IMHO, he will be still hard facing that edge on New Years eve 2009 !
We used to use stellite on our plow bottoms.
DanD78
Platinum Member
I thought of another but more costly option. You can buy pre-formed hardened shapes from diffenent suppliers that can be brazed or welded to the base material. They are a type of tool steel or even carbide. they are good for a continious abrasive load but do not handle shock loads very well.
Dan
Dan
