AlanB
Elite Member
So, has anyone put gauge wheels on a KK tiller and used it somewhat in the manner of a Harley rake, or I guess more accurately like a Preseeder?
Would it work?
Would it work?
Tiller Harley Rake vs KK tiller
- Thread starter AlanB
- Start date
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art
Super Member
Two different type machines all together. If you don't have stones and just need to loosen up for grass seed and want to use the tiller great. A better idea might be to get some Check Chains, they go from the tractor center link to the three point pins on the machine and are adjustable to tune in the height you want the three point hitch to drop to.
FamilyFarm
Platinum Member
There is a major investment difference in the two! A new harley rake is probably 5-6000 or more. And, you have to have the rear hydraulics on your tractor. I really need one on my property, but just couldn't go the money right now. It will turn rocky, hard to do anything with ground into beautiful soil, ready for anything and rock-free. They are very impressive.
art
Super Member
I thought I'd add this, when I was clearing my back lawn about 1/2 acre that was over grown with scrub tree's and honeysuckle I tilled it as deep as the tiller would go. Seeded it, then waited for the nice grass to grow, what was level I found to get very unlevel. The grass came on good with six to 8 inches plus of loose soil but when it settled it wasn't as level as it before. I could see some high spots,and some low. It didn't really bother my boys as they played soccer on it or any of the other fun they had thru the years just me for the time I put into it to make it sports field quality and then have the rolls that it does. If the base is solid and level then just work the top inch or so for the grass seed to germinate in and hold.
jeffinsgf
Veteran Member
Art,
The solution to your issue is topdressing. Core aerate the field, then spread about 1/4 inch of compost on it. Do this a couple times a year for a couple years, and the field will even out. The compost will migrate off the high spots and settle in the low. You can also use a half and half mix of sand and compost, depending on the nature of your soil.
The solution to your issue is topdressing. Core aerate the field, then spread about 1/4 inch of compost on it. Do this a couple times a year for a couple years, and the field will even out. The compost will migrate off the high spots and settle in the low. You can also use a half and half mix of sand and compost, depending on the nature of your soil.
I have a harley rake and love the way it work's.It has a option of no hydraulic's or a fixed arm when you buy one.When using it it dig's only 2 or three inches deep in the ground .I would not want it to work much deeper as it would tear up more rock's to the surface.The harley is going to set you back 6500 to 7000 range.If you look on the website they have many new modle's if you have 3 remote's you can adjust the wheel hight to cut uneven grade's plus angle the rake to winrow rock's.The one like the t-6 harley tractor rake is on a 10 min video at wood's equipment website.With just a few passes with the rake you can get a pile of rock quick. The best thing is you can work wet ground and it dries it out as you work it.I took mud from a ditch and ran over it with the rake it mixed the mud with dry dirt then i replaced it getting the job done that day.I dont know where you can get anyone these day's to pick up rock's so i made the investment cheap laybor in my book.
HTWT
Bronze Member
When I redo lawns I rototill first and then use the Harley rake to smooth and level the lawn. Just rototilling leaves the lawn some what level but is very soft and needs to be packed down and the existing grass is still present and will make the new lawn lumpy if it isn't removed and/or packed down.
The lawn can be rototilled and left untouched for a few weeks and then smoothed out. The grass will break down and the soil will settle. It maybe possible to drag something over it and smooth it out.
The lawn can be rototilled and left untouched for a few weeks and then smoothed out. The grass will break down and the soil will settle. It maybe possible to drag something over it and smooth it out.
I did see a tiller/rake with gauge wheel's at louisville farm show.I havn't used a tiller much so i cant say how much better it would be for the time and money differance.I dont remember the name of the company that made it.
OP
AlanB
Elite Member
Well, my bad I did not explain myself very well here, or my background / uses.
Full Pull how far down in KY are you? Close enough too do work in Clarksville TN?
Anyway, let me back up a step and explain where I am coming from a bit.
My wife and I (really my wife) own a lawncare and landscaping business. * Hanna Bechard * A Woman's Touch * Clarksville * TN * Landscaping * Lawncare * Patios * Ponds *
Last several years we have been doing more and more lawn installs.
We have been working with another guy that had a large Gehl SS and a 6' Harley so we would sub that part out too him normally.
My deal with him is falling through, he is working for some other folks more now, and does not have time too meet his obligations too us.
We can either, turn those jobs away now (I hate turning away work) or we can Rent the equipment (I hate renting, always feel I am tossing money away) or we can set up too do it ourselves.
My Bob is too small to effectively run a Harley. So to buy a more current SS and new Harley (I have never seen a used one) would set me back a minimum of about $15K
I can usually find a used Preseeder or two that we could use with our tractor, but to be truly effective I would need to buy two remotes to add to our tractor at apx. $1000 plus roughly $3K for a used Preseeder.
We have looked at the TR3 deals, matter of fact have the video, but they are not cheap, and I am still not convinced that they would work as well as something with a rotating head. Then again, they are not the price either
So the thought crossed my mind as my daughter was saying that she wanted a garden, that a tiller has the rotating component, it is not set too windrow, but I think that could be reasonably accomplished with some alternate mount points. I am not sure how the "blade" of a KK tiller would work compared to the "spike" of a Harley Rake, but I wonder if I could not modify a set of blades, then I could add a set of gauge wheels to give me that more consistent depth, and maybe a coulter row or something back there behind to lay it down a bit better, maybe spring load it or maybe used some old time cast iron coulter wheels and they would be heavy enough with just their weight?
Anyway, I am well aware of the differences in the two, and really like the results of the Harley, just am not sure I can justify the cost and was wondering if anyone had added gauge wheels to something like a KK tiller before to see what it would do.
I guess I am also concerned that the flat "blade" of the tiller hitting the ground would not be as effective, and also I do not think the RPM of the tiller would be near what the Harley does just trying to weigh in my mind how much of a difference that would make, without commiting the money to find I was wrong... and should have just bought a preseeder or Harley rake from the start.
This board sure is an asset to learn without the pain of making some of the mistakes along the way.
Full Pull how far down in KY are you? Close enough too do work in Clarksville TN?
Anyway, let me back up a step and explain where I am coming from a bit.
My wife and I (really my wife) own a lawncare and landscaping business. * Hanna Bechard * A Woman's Touch * Clarksville * TN * Landscaping * Lawncare * Patios * Ponds *
Last several years we have been doing more and more lawn installs.
We have been working with another guy that had a large Gehl SS and a 6' Harley so we would sub that part out too him normally.
My deal with him is falling through, he is working for some other folks more now, and does not have time too meet his obligations too us.
We can either, turn those jobs away now (I hate turning away work) or we can Rent the equipment (I hate renting, always feel I am tossing money away) or we can set up too do it ourselves.
My Bob is too small to effectively run a Harley. So to buy a more current SS and new Harley (I have never seen a used one) would set me back a minimum of about $15K
I can usually find a used Preseeder or two that we could use with our tractor, but to be truly effective I would need to buy two remotes to add to our tractor at apx. $1000 plus roughly $3K for a used Preseeder.
We have looked at the TR3 deals, matter of fact have the video, but they are not cheap, and I am still not convinced that they would work as well as something with a rotating head. Then again, they are not the price either
So the thought crossed my mind as my daughter was saying that she wanted a garden, that a tiller has the rotating component, it is not set too windrow, but I think that could be reasonably accomplished with some alternate mount points. I am not sure how the "blade" of a KK tiller would work compared to the "spike" of a Harley Rake, but I wonder if I could not modify a set of blades, then I could add a set of gauge wheels to give me that more consistent depth, and maybe a coulter row or something back there behind to lay it down a bit better, maybe spring load it or maybe used some old time cast iron coulter wheels and they would be heavy enough with just their weight?
Anyway, I am well aware of the differences in the two, and really like the results of the Harley, just am not sure I can justify the cost and was wondering if anyone had added gauge wheels to something like a KK tiller before to see what it would do.
I guess I am also concerned that the flat "blade" of the tiller hitting the ground would not be as effective, and also I do not think the RPM of the tiller would be near what the Harley does just trying to weigh in my mind how much of a difference that would make, without commiting the money to find I was wrong... and should have just bought a preseeder or Harley rake from the start.
This board sure is an asset to learn without the pain of making some of the mistakes along the way.
You might want to try a pulviriser like the gehl,bushhog or the wood's it should be enough to tear up the ground to get a good seed bed while level out the rough spot's.This is all we had for year's it just take's a little more work .And the spike's windrow the seed if you scatch them in light after seeding .You might pick up a good used one for 500.00 or less a new one 1100 to 1500.I would rent one the first time to see if you like it.Tenn is to many mile's for me to run.Thank's for asking
