Has anyone used POR-15 for rust?

[Gary_in_Indiana]

There is a prodiuct on the market called POR-15 which claims to be a one time paint over rust material which covers, stops and prevents rust. I'm certainly intrigued by the idea but didn't know if anyone had any first hand experience with it and what their results were.

I can see this being a really neat thing to use on the underside of steel trailers, etc., but at about $100/gal. I'd like to know how it has worked for someone here before I write the check. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

They have a <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.por15.com/index.html>website</A> with their product and pricing info.

 

[Rowski]

Gary

My father and I (mostly my father) are restoring a IHC ScoutII for a plow vehicle and have treated the underside of the truck frame and drivetrain components with por-15. The truck is a frame up restoration. It is not yet complete so it has not seen our very salty winters. I do know that the stuff is very hard when it dries, scratches pretty hard. I hope it (por-15) works well because we have spent a lot of money and time. From what I see there is a very important part of the process and that is the preping the surface using there metal ready spray stuff. We did this step even after sandblasting the metal. One note some of the products are UV sensitive and can not be top coated. But they do have stuff that works the same that can be topcaoted. Today we are trying the gas tank sealer kit they have. Well see how that works as well. From people that I have talked with that have had good to great results is that the followed por-15 directions very closely. I have a few picture I can post to show you, nothing too great.

 

[Boondox]

Gary -- I've been using it on the wife's 57 Dodge pickup, but it's only been on there a couple of weeks so I can't speak firsthand about the protection. That said, we have a big antique car show here in town every year, and virtually every restorer used it and swore by the stuff. I was pretty impressed by the POR-15 representatives' knowledge as well. A customer was complaining about the bubbly results he got using the product and the rep was able to tell him exactly what he did wrong.

One word of warning: believe the directions when they say the stuff does not come off skin once it dries. I still have one gray elbow!

Pete

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Rowski,

I live in the birthplace of your Scout. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif The building where it was built is still standing here.

They were great 4WD vehicles with a drivetrain that would last forever. Unfortunately, the bodies were as bad as the drivetrains were good. If you get the body restored you'll have a great piece there.

Good luck with it. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Pete,

I know what you mean about those "wear off" type stains. I recall going to a formal event on a Saturday night with one hand so filthy looking I wrapped it in gauze and white tape and claimed an injury rather than explaining the glue from my Saturday morning project. /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

It sounds like POR-15 would be a good thing to use to undercoat my steel trailer to keep it from rusting away from the bottom up. Extending the life of that thing a few years for $100 sounds like a bargain since it works so well.

Thanks to both of you for your replies. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[s1120]

I belive it can be top coated. I don't have the instructions here, but I beleve you have a small time peried where you can. After it tacks up, but before it "hardens" I also belive they have a verson that is more stable in the sun. Cost more though, and I don't know if its a good as the old stuff.

As for getting it on you skin. DON"T! It will NOT come off. But it also will not come off the steel eather.

There are also a few other producs out there that do a good job. I have had good luck with Eastwoods Corless. It is a primer that can be top coated. Also a product called "Zerorust" Its as good as Por15, but goes on a little thinner. I have used that inside of door panels, and fenders.

 

[Boondox]

Gary -- Another lesson I just remembered is that the partial cans are a bear to preserve. Expose it to air and it just wants to dry up like a rock! If you have a partial can, cover it with Saran Wrap before putting the lid on, otherwise the lid fuses to the can and you'll never get it open again. To get around that problem, I pay a little more and get a six pack of the smallest cans. I also use two colors. Gray for the first coat, then black for the second. This helps me keep track of what got the second coat. And POR15 should be stirred, never shaken or you'll have little bubble bumps as a permanent part of your paint job!

Pete

 

[Rowski]

Gary

See attachmnet.

That's pretty cool. Do a lot of people still drive them? My father has spent a lot of time and money to prevent it from rusting out. Well at least slow the process down. We know all about the drivetrain. We use the automatic for plowing. The Scout can get up and down driveway (for plowing) that our Ford Wrecker and new Chevy can't even touch! It also has the nice short wheel base and can almost turn on a dime.

I would like to ask a favor, I sounds kinda cheezy but sometime could you get a picture or partial picture of the building.

I don't want to "off topic" your post. I'll start a thread with pictures once the project is complete. The picture you can e-mail me if you like.

Thanks

 

[Rowski]

I think you are right. We did the frame a year ago. But for under the vehicle it doesn't see to much UV unless the vehicle becomes part of the "off the road club" /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

 

[s1120]

<font color=red>
But for under the vehicle it doesn't see to much UV unless the vehicle becomes part of the "off the road club" </font color=red>

Ya. Then the paint braking down would be the least of your problem./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif