Hauling a 2520

[Yseesee]

I just picked up a new 16' foot trailer yesterday morning for my 2520 and I need a little advice. I'd like to know where the tractor tie down points are and the proper way to use them. I figured the tow bar would be a good place to secure the rear of the tractor but I'm a little confused about the front-end. I will be hauling the tractor 90% of the time with the FEL installed. If at all possible I'd like to avoid any kind of damage to the painted surfaces from straps or chains. I'd also like to know if chains or straps should be used and the advantages/disadvantages of each. Oh, one more thing... You know what they say "a picture is worth a thousand words"!

 

[getindirty]

Trailering equipment does come with some worry the first few times you do it. I installed hooks on my bucket and use chains. Before I welded the hooks on I used the entire bucket. As far as the rear I use the lift arms with a quick hitch or a draw bar installed to hold the rear. First attach the forward side of the tractor to the trailer. There should be large tie downs somewere near the front of the trailer. They look like stake pocket or large "D" rings. Back the tractor until the front is tight. It should only take a few inches. Then secure the rear using the rear tie downs on the trailer. This is where the lift arms work great. Just raise the lift arms and the rear is now tight. The forward chains stop rearward movement and the rear chains are to stop forward movement, I alway use chains because I have torn the hooks out of straps and they wear if rubing against something sharp. Also I love scrathes on my equipment. It is like a battle scar. Plus you get a chance to do some touch up painting. I have touched up painted my bucket several times so far just to keep the rust off but you will lose paint using the FEL in anything. Remember tractors are suppose to get dirty. I would invest in a laod binder. The three point hitch method is OK for a short trip but hydro "weep" will cause the chain to go slack. This would not be good on a long trip. Use the load binder on the rear to take up the slack. They are priceless when it come to securing the load. Here is an example:

Northern Industrial Lever Load Binder 5400-Lb. Capacity | Load Binders | Northern Tool + Equipment

For the rear of the tractor get a clevis to run the chain through. I makes life easier.

Clevis Has Heat-Treated Pin-Straight | 3-Point Hitch Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

Your local TSC or Rural King or Farm and fleet have these items in stock a few pennies cheaper. Buy chains and binders that are rated heavier than you equipment. This would not be a good place to go cheap. Not all chains are created equal. Get binder chains to be safe.

Be safe and have fun.

 

[jdbower]

It's been a while but I think my dealer just sets the parking break and uses a pair of straps in an "X" across the middle - but it's not a very far trip. As another bit of useful information, if you have an MCS make sure you remove the bags as they can come off in transit. I haven't seen any signs of wear, but if you're paranoid a moving blanket may do the trick.

 

[bjcsc]

If by "tow bar" you mean the stop bar at the front of the trailer, chances are you'll be way tongue heavy going all the way to that point. I do it similar to getindirty, except I don't use my lift arms for the rear. I use a chain through a drawbar hook like this

and a ratchet binder to tighten to the back.

 

[RollTideRam]

I use a clevis in the tractor drawbar and use two straps on the rear. I run these over my cutter. Dont' forget to remove these before raising the cutter, I forgot once and the tractor raised the front wheels off the trailer. On the front I use one strap over the axle. This is when hauling without my loader. I use chains when I have the loader on. Straps are easy on the paint, just watch routing them away from sharp edges. I have seen some people use chains through an a cut up firehose to protect paint. JC

 

[purpony]

I use axle straps around the bucket frame that bolts to the tractor frame for the front. Nice and easy to get to and does not mess the paint up.

I prefer straps over chains since i dont want to mess my paint up. As for the back, i tie it down different ways depending on what i have on the 3 point hitch.

Also, if you are planning on trailering your tractor alot look into your insurance. I know in CT, my trailer is covered under my truck insurance.... but nothing covers my tractor. I would have to have seperate insurance on the tractor, thankfully i dont trailer it much.

 

[MAYOR8020]

all you have to do is buy 2 clevise and put 1 on draw bar put chain thru
get tractor close to where you want it then hook off tight as you can.
then drive forward to tighten chain
take 2nd clevise put on frame part of tractor this will be hanging down then run chain thru hook up then crank down w/ binder
this is a 1 binder tie down system

 

[ducati996]

I use chains and binders (1 front and 1 rear) - I also have found that used fireman hose work great as a protective barrier covering the chains.
The straps are good but they always seem to fray on me after some point in time, so chains it is..

 

[Greenster]

I just picked up a new 16' foot trailer yesterday morning for my 2520 and I need a little advice. I'd like to know where the tractor tie down points are and the proper way to use them. I figured the tow bar would be a good place to secure the rear of the tractor but I'm a little confused about the front-end. I will be hauling the tractor 90% of the time with the FEL installed. If at all possible I'd like to avoid any kind of damage to the painted surfaces from straps or chains. I'd also like to know if chains or straps should be used and the advantages/disadvantages of each. Oh, one more thing... You know what they say "a picture is worth a thousand words"!

If you do any research at all on this subject you'll find that chains are absolutely the safest way to go. Protect your paint as mentioned with something between the chain and your equipment. In an emergency stop or manuver you want the equipment to move as little as possible.

 

[Deadman]

I cut tie downs into the trailer directely below the loader mount arms that are bolted to the tractor. I pull STRAIGHT DOWN from there, and the tractor can't move.