Hay baler

[psdx]

The CT225 is too small of tractor to run a baler, both in weight and HP. ...snip....

Like someone said, an engine powered baler might be more conducive, no ptp power required and no centrifugal force to push the tractor. If you're in the IN,IL,OH area, I know someone who has a NH w/ a Wisconsin engine for sale.

I not see how there's any centrifugal force from a baler that's pushing the tractor. I think i would call it inertia rather than centrifugal force, but either way I'm not sure I agree.

On an old tractor that doesn't have an independent PTO, sure I get that. But the OP referenced a CT225 that has an independent PTO, so there is no direct linkage between the PTO shaft spinning and the drive wheels turning. The PTO can keep spinning with or without power going to it and it's not going to affect the drive wheels. ...now then - might a heavy load behind a light tractor push it down a hill and create a challenge? Sure, that's something different and it could happen. But I don't understand the centrifugal force thing.

 

[flusher]

It's the reciprocating fore/aft motion of the plunger that's causing the push/pull motion on the tractor. I feel it somewhat with that 3000 lb MF124 baler operated by my Mahindra 5525 which weighs over 6000 lb.

Looking at that Super A video I posted earlier in this thread, I don't see alot of this type of motion even on a small tractor like that Farmall.

 

[Hoosier Hay Man]

here you go, 15HP on the PTO min req
Compact Hay Balers

That is way cool. I would love to see one run.

 

[Canada_CT230]

That is way cool. I would love to see one run.

The website has videos.

 

[Rolandman]

As long as you plan to take your time and limit the number of bales you make, most of the smaller/older balers should be OK. While our 75 HP John Deere was out of commission we used our Ferguson TEA to finish off a field. I would think that the CT225's diesel would out perform most of the older gas tractors that were used in the past. If you can find one, the NH 268 or NH 269 range would be fine for light duty baling.

 

[rambler]

A smaller old $1000 baler takes about 17 hp to run it - to charge up the flywheel.

It takes another 5-10 hp to move it and the tractor through the field.

A 20 hp tractor will sorta run the baler, but it won't be fun. Well underpowered.

Two problems beyond that:

Tail waging the doge - the baler will wiegh more than the tractor, and will eaily get away on you going down a hill. Dangerous. As well the back & foth plunger forces are going to make it a rocking good ride. Baler often has negative tongue weight, meaning it lifts up on the rear of your tractor, making braes or traction even less effective....

And, the driveline on a under 30 hp compact tractor is _not_ designed to deal with a 40 hp flywheel on a baler. That big flywheel on the baler stores power, perhaps 40 hp or so, and the flywheel actually does the heavy pushing. It only takes a little less than 1/2 the hp to charge up the flywheel, but you are truly putting a 20 hp tractor on a 40 hp baler, and it will mash up the pto parts of your tractor in a while.

All around, it would be the tail wagging the dog. If I had 5 acres of hay laying down, my other tractors died, sure I'd hook up the 20 hp compact to the old baler and finish the field before that rain cloud came. It would be possible.

But it would not be fun, it would not be productive, and it would not be good to _plan_ to do this all the time.

My opinion. 30 hp bare min to do a good safe nice job of baling with an older small square baler, and better have a heavier weighted tractor to control the baler as you drive - fluid, wheel weights, something.

--->Paul

 

[qed-cat225]

there are also these guys Square Balers

 

[iltfsw]

i got an internatinal harvester #27 and got it out of time after the cain fell off

 

[zzvyb6]

I ran my NH 479 mower and my JD 14T baler very nicely with my Yanmar 22 hp 4wd tractor with no problems. It didn't have live power, either.

There was no bucking motion with the baler/ tractor unit because the 3pt hitch was tight and not all roached out like most rigs have, the driveline angles and height were set for cv geometry, and the cutoff knives were sharp. That helps keep the flywheel velocity constant, thus no bucking. I've done it. If you haven't then stand back and watch.

I even pulled a wagon (4 place snowmobile trailer) and regularly had a 'helper' put 150+ bales on it on a flat field. I have the video to prove it, too (including the mowing). I used the loader hydraulics to run the header up/down and tongue swing on the mower without any problems, too. Don't expect to run in high gear into a doubled windrow, but it got the job done. I'm soon getting a video converter to get these shots on YouTube, so you can all appreciate that setup.