haydraulics at a lose i

[0dude]

i have a nh tc55da hydraulic pump rated, as i read the manual, at 11.6 gpm and b3200 kubota rated 9.3 gpm. i would like to get a skidsteer plate mounted 3pt hitch adapter with hydrualic motor pto drive to front mount a 5ft woods brushhog on nh an an on kubota a 5ft kubota snow blower. skidsteerattachment stated they felt neither tractor would handle any of their four units. any suggestions and how do you decide what size hydraulic motor your tractor hydraulics will support?

 

[oldnslo]

Flow rate and displacement of the motor will determine what RPM the motor turns at. Pressure across the motor will determine the torque the motor develops.

Theorectical hydraulic motor speed formulae: CIR =(GPM * 231) / RPM

CIR is motor displacement in Cubic Inches per Revolution

 

[pedalstomper78]

I see another issue. Attachments like that are super heavy. When you think that you'll have 5' of steel hanging out in front of your tractor, that's a lot of leverage. I know guys carry round bales with those tractors on a spear, but those bales aren't being beat off of the ground etc. In my opinion, the shorter arms of a skid steer are better suited for this. Also remember how wide of a turn that would make.

I've got to ask, any particular why you want to hang the mower out front? I can somewhat understand the snowblower, but not as much on the mower. (just curious and always looking to find new uses for stuff)

 

[Farmerford]

I have a 48" Bush Hog Squealer (their "light duty" model) on the fel of a Kubota L4330 (43 hp) hydrostatic drive. I put a Charr-Lynn 4.9 cu in motor on the mower and drive it with a Prince 11 gpm PTO pump. That puts about 14 hp to the mower gearbox input shaft at 540 rpm, and it is barely adequate when you go very slow.

The Prince pump is only 2,000 psi while your NH system is probably 2,500 psi or so. Thus if you could transfer all 11.6 gpm of flow to a 4.9 cu in motor you would get about 540 rpm input to the mower and say 18 hp. I think your rig would be underpowered, just like mine. If you are just going to mow ditches ,etc. by driving forward, dropping the mower, backing up a few feet, and then doing it all over again you could probably get by since the idle time gives the mower a chance to spin back up to full speed. But if you are going to do continuous mowing I think you will be very disappointed.

As Pedelstomper 78 said, weight will also be an issue. Your 5' Woods may be quite a bit heavier than my 4' Squealer; the Squealer is not too much weight for hard, fairly level ground, but it quickly becomes too much if ground is soft and uneven.

 

[jinman]

Hooking a hydraulic mower to a tractor makes as much sense as trying to hook a PTO cutter to a skid-steer. They are different pieces of equipment with different attachments. If you want a hydraulic mower, you should be saving for a skid-steer in my opinion. The skid-steer's hydraulic pumps are designed to work with hydraulic motors. A tractor's PTO is designed to work with a rotating shaft direct drive. Post hole augers will work fine with tractor hydraulics, but mowers just require too many modifications and re-engineering to make them cost effective in my opinion. I've seen 100+ hp tractors running hydraulic powered batwing mowers and they have supplemental reservoirs and high volume hydraulic pumps. Those kinds of options are not available on the TC55DA.

 

[grsthegreat]

I looked into a similar issue last year. 2 issues raised their ugly head.

1. These style of mowers are designed for 3,000 PSI drives (skidsteers) and not the 2,500 PSI of tractors.

2. When using the mower, you have essentially diverted all available hydraulic flow necessary for the operation of the tractor.


I ended up installing a 3 point , 25 gallon reservoir of oil with a pto mounted 3,000 PSI , 15 GPM pump. Im only running a snowblower at this time, but plan on adding a loader mounted post hole digger, etc in the future. The tank also adds about 500-600 + pounds of rear ballast.