Mostly you will receive "HELLOS" in this Forum.
Copy your Post #1 into the Forum BUYING/PRICING/COMPARISONS.
There you will get advice and opinions.
We like to help spend other people's money.
(How much snow?) (What is the range of your budget, comfort/max?)
(What tractor dealers are available for parts/service within 25 miles of your property?)
ditto
not sure how new members introductory initial few posts work. (i would imagine they do it to deal with SPAM) but beyond that *shrugs*
Used Tractors For Sale at TractorHouse.com: John Deere Tractors, used farm tractors and farm equipment, tractors for sale, Case IH, New Holland, Agco, Kubota
www.craiglist.org HINT use
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BUYING USED...
i encourage you to get a list of tractors in your area, and take a day trip, and go look at all of them, test drive them, etc... this is the only way you are going to get some experience in finding out what is good and what is used abused and over its limit as far as used / older tractors go. also just because a unit is dirty doesn't mean it is good, i get a little uneasy seeing brane new paint and power washing done. vs being able to see grease, oil, etc... on a unit. i rather know were it leaks, and what may need to be done to fix it.
hydrualics can be an issue with tractors. and you may need to let it set there and run for 15 minutes at high idle or run it for a little bit hard. to get the tempature of the hyd oil up. once it gets up. raise FEL (front end loader), 3pt hitch (with something heavy on 3pt hitch) and then turn off tractor and wait 30 minutes to an hour to see if things start coming down. if they come down quickly hyd valves may need to be rebuilt.
check for left and rear right break pedals and make sure they can stop tractor and don't need adjustment.
see if wheels are filled with a fluid (make sure valves are turned down to 6 oclick position and let a little air out (you should get some sort of fluid) if given tires are filled. this is more checking if they are filled and if possible see what they are filled with.
check for grease zerks if they are all there and have been used (have a grease gun handy) and run over the grease zerks.
see how much play is in the steering wheel.
tire tread on old use machines can be an issue along with dry rot (cracking of tires) tractor tires more so the larger rear tires, can get rather expensive quickly. more so if tractor is a 4x4 / MFWD tractor were you need to keep a correct ratio between front and rear tires.
see if unit has some sort of winter heating option more so if diesel, a block heater, or like.
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STUFF TO LOOK INTO....
i would most likely push for a higher end SCUT to low range CUT (sub compact utilty tractor / compact utilty tractor) primarly to get you the tractor frame that has the higher distance from ground and heavier over all weight. vs a garden tractor on steroids with frame that sets low to the ground and not that heavy overall.
rotatory cutter = bush hog (bush hog is a name brand)
3pt hitch forks, might be useful
3pt hitch rear blade, might be useful in both snow and dealing with driveway/trails
3pt hitch boxblade with rippers / LPGS (land plan grader scrapper) york rake/ landscape rake are other things that might be useful for dealing with dirt/gravel driveways, and/or trails.
a FEL (front end loader) most likely would be an advantage to you, it can be a rather expensive item to add to a older used tractor. vs buying a used tractor that already has one on it.
the 3pt hitch ratotary cutter, you most likely will want some "front weight" either actual front weights, or a FEL for descent amount offset ballast weight for the rotatory cutter on the rear.
