Help a couple of lady farmers with wellpump problem

[dieselkelly]

We bought this place ten years ago. The well pump (1/2 HP shallow well) was included, the tank was replaced by previous owner at time of sale. The electrical pressure gauge was replaced by our electritian earlier this year. It's not unusual for the pump to blow the breaker if we use water in the house and barn at the same time.
Yesterday the pump blew the breaker twice in an hour when we weren't using the water. We went down to reset it and as we watched the pressure gauge needle jump up and down as the pressure built up.
Is this an eletrical problem or pump mechanical problem (or pressure tank)?
Thanks in advance for helping, I sure I knew about all these things.
PS should we be doing maintenance on our well pump?

 

[Turbys_1700]

I'm not an electrician or a plumber.

I have a spring that uses a 3/4 hp shallow pump that incorporates a foot valve in the spring box. My grandfather replaced this pump in the early 70's and to my best knowledge and has never been touched. Since I have been here (1985) I replaced the original tank with a bladder tank and then about 15 years later had to replace it again. This time I put in a larger unit. I think we've replaced the pressure switch several times.

If your pressure switch is good then the pump may be on it's last legs. It is drawing more amperage than when first installed. A reputable plumber could test the pump for electrical draw. I am not aware of anyone that rebuilds pumps anymore. Replacing the unit is not a difficult job if you have easy access. The pressure gauge usually jumps a little when building pressure. At least mine does. I think it is mostly from vibration of from the pump.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[M5farms]

Replace the 1/2 hp with 1hp . Most are easy to swap out you will just need to know if it's a single stage or 2 stage . Here the well men have a monopoly and the plumbing store will not sell to people other than well drillers . These motors are the same as pool pump motors so I just go in and ask for a pool motor. If it's above your paygrade you will have to look for an old timer that doesn't want you to drill a new well.

 

[zzvyb6]

Listen to the motor when it starts up to raise the pressure. Does it struggle, hum or make a grinding noise? I wonder if the pump is calcified and is mechanically choked with crud.

 

[CobyRupert]

^ what ZZ says. :thumbsup:

Pump shouldn't require maintenance, however you should check that your pressure (or bladder) tank is operating properly.
Waterlogged Pressure Tanks - Wisconsin

It may very well be your pump, but...

Does your pump cycle on and off very quickly with very little water drawn out of tank? Most systems turn pump on when pressure drops to 30 lbs, and turns off pump when pressure is 50 lbs (Some systems are 40/60lbs) (Test: With tank at full pressure and pump off, how much water can you draw before pressure drops to 30lbs again and pump turns on. That is: Are you short cycling from not enough air in your tank? Only air can compress and "store" water pressure.)

"Blew the breaker when you weren't using water"- (???) - So the pump was running but couldn't build up pressure? Did pressure ever get above (say) 10 or 15lbs? If not it may be that pump lost it's prime, which could be a bad foot valve or you lost all pressure (and prime) when breaker blew.

When you reset the breaker and pressure needle was jumping, what was the pressure when you started? Around 30lbs (i.e. ~ turn-on pressure) or did an open faucet (leak?) draw pressure to near zero?

Like I said, it may be your motor, but it would be good to know what was happening when breaker trips:
1) Is pump trying to start?
2) Or was pump running? For how long? Was there multiple starts in a short period? What was pressure?

 

[Egon]

With no water being used will the pressure gauge hold steady or drop slowly? If it holds steady the foot valve is okay. If it drops there is a leak somewhere in the system.

Does the pump cycle at times?

At maximum flow rate can the pump build up pressure? ( highest continuous amp draw will be at maximum flow and may exceed the line - breaker rating. )

Pull the pressure gauge and check for scale on the switch and piping. If there is scale clean it all out and replace the gauge. Still got a problem put in a new pump. Box stores should handle shallow well pumps.

Check pressure regulator and lines and if scale clean it out. You might also change the pressure gauge settings to check it for operation.

Just a site with some diagrams and helpful tips. No asscociation to site or recommendations.
[video]http://redlionproducts.com/cleanwater/overview/[/video]

 

[fishheadbob]

I have 6 wells and way too much experience with replacing pumps.

A pump requires no maintenance, there isn't really any that can be performed. Some of the above points about waterlogged tanks and leaks are good.

Your pump appears to be inexpensive (cheap), the electric motor in it is wearing out. You got your money's worth from it, it's probably time to replace it. While I cannot see for sure, it also looks like there are 2 hoses on it making me think it's plumbed as a deep well jet pump. Take a flashlight and a weighted string out to your well. See if you can see the end of the pipe(s) and the foot valve. Drop the weighted end of the string to the foot valve, measure the distance, then drop it to the bottom of the well, measure again. If it's more than 14 feet to the foot valve you have a convertible jet pump (deep well.) A shallow well pump can only lift water 14 feet. If it's a long way to the bottom of the well, then it's almost certainly a deep well (why dig 40 feet for a 14 foot pipe?)

It isn't rocket science to replace a pump, but the first one I did required some guts and a few trips to the hardware store for more 79 cent parts. Watch a few youtube videos to see what's involved. I would also suggest upgrading to a better quality pump, you should get many years of service from it.
Replacing the pump isn't all that difficult if you pay close attention to how you remove the old one, the new one should go in the same way. After all, you do call yourselves farmers. Breaking the old piping loose after 10 years is the hardest part, after you remove the corroded clamps a hair drier will expand and soften the pipe enough to pull it off without breaking (much). You have plastic pipe which is easy to work with. If you are afraid of the job, perhaps you have a handyman. If not prepare to pay a plumber a kings' ransom.

 

[oosik]

I would recommend that you spend time scouting out a recognized reputable well maintenance/repair company. They can determine what must be done and can provide that service for you.

Are you really prepared to do whatever is required even if you could make that determination - I think not.

And - Good Luck.

 

[ning]

Replace the 1/2 hp with 1hp .

Don't arbitrarily go to a higher horse pump. You size the pump by the amount of water (gpm), head, and pressure; ideally the pump doesn't go on and off often but rather comes on and stays on longer, as long as it's able to satisfy the peak water needs - a properly sized pump uses less power and has reduced start cycles which use a lot of power and incur wear.

That pump says it draws 13.6 amps max and is a 115/230 pump. Is it wired on 115 (or 110 or 120, whatever you call it there) or 230 (...)?
What size breaker is on the circuit?

If the motor's or pumps bearings are wearing out, increased load could make the motor pull more current. Also, the start switch could be corroded and getting hung up, leaving the motor sucking more juice which could cause it to pop the breaker.

 

[CobyRupert]

I would recommend that you spend time scouting out a recognized reputable well maintenance/repair company. They can determine what must be done and can provide that service for you.

This answer reminds me of looking in an Owners Manual for something like "How to change car spark plugs, see page 45."

On Page 45: "Changing spark plugs: Bring vehicle to a qualified service technician". -Yeah THANKS!