Help a Hydraulic Newbie

[millzenator]

I am the proud owner of a 2014 Mahindra Max 28XL. It has very low hours (52'ish), but I am about to put it to work. I am starting a small side business, focused on residential and very light commercial work. For these small jobs, the Max seems perfect because it's small size, yet brutish capabilities. The tractor has a 26L front loader (pin on...:thumbdown:... hope to convert to quick connect soon), and a 26B Backhoe. The backhoe must be the older version because it doesn't have the serrated arm. I hear the "newer" 26B backhoe has better capabilities.

I need help understanding the hydraulic system. I want to add a true third function to the FL, and two rear remotes (one for a top link for sure.) I've only removed the backhoe once to install a new PHD that I bought from Everything Attachments (nice unit). When re-attaching the backhoe, there were three hoses. Is one a return to tank from a regulator build into the backhoe spools? Also, one hose had a check valve. I could not get the quick connect to go back on this line, and had to loosen the check valve to relieve pressure to connect the line. Will someone please explain the hydraulic system with their best guess on how the hoses are currently routed (also why the check valve is on one of the backhoe lines?), and what I need to reach my hydraulic goals? I assume I need a solenoid-type valve for the 3rd function (really don't want a diverter and loose lift or bucket curl function while using the grapple), and a two spool power beyond valve for the rear remotes? How should I plan on running the hoses? Perhaps the fact that the backhoe is already there (well, the hoses to the backhoe) will aid in making the rear remote install easier?

Any help with explanations is greatly appreciated!

-Terry

 

[dickfoster]

I am the proud owner of a 2014 Mahindra Max 28XL. It has very low hours (52'ish), but I am about to put it to work. I am starting a small side business, focused on residential and very light commercial work. For these small jobs, the Max seems perfect because it's small size, yet brutish capabilities. The tractor has a 26L front loader (pin on...:thumbdown:... hope to convert to quick connect soon), and a 26B Backhoe. The backhoe must be the older version because it doesn't have the serrated arm. I hear the "newer" 26B backhoe has better capabilities.

I need help understanding the hydraulic system. I want to add a true third function to the FL, and two rear remotes (one for a top link for sure.) I've only removed the backhoe once to install a new PHD that I bought from Everything Attachments (nice unit). When re-attaching the backhoe, there were three hoses. Is one a return to tank from a regulator build into the backhoe spools? Also, one hose had a check valve. I could not get the quick connect to go back on this line, and had to loosen the check valve to relieve pressure to connect the line. Will someone please explain the hydraulic system with their best guess on how the hoses are currently routed (also why the check valve is on one of the backhoe lines?), and what I need to reach my hydraulic goals? I assume I need a solenoid-type valve for the 3rd function (really don't want a diverter and loose lift or bucket curl function while using the grapple), and a two spool power beyond valve for the rear remotes? How should I plan on running the hoses? Perhaps the fact that the backhoe is already there (well, the hoses to the backhoe) will aid in making the rear remote install easier?

Any help with explanations is greatly appreciated!

-Terry

If you're going to be removing the backhoe very ofter the first thing to do is to build yourself a dolly to make putting it back on a lot easier. Next once you get the hoses figured out mark them with colored zip ties or tape or something so next time you know what goes where. Since I didn't take it off I have no idea where yours goes so you'll have to figure it out on your own but there should only be two of em that you can get mixed up. There is a low pressure return to the tank, a power beyond and a HP supply. When you get it on the ground you want everything relaxed and supported so there is no pressure when the cylinders relax and leak down. When you're taking it off and just before disconnecting the hoses and have everything in position for removal, shut the engine off then operate all the backhoe controls to relieve any line pressure. That way it will be easy to reconnect the lines when you go to put the hoe back on as there should be no pressure.

For some hoes there are dollies that you can buy but many you have to make yourself as I did mine. Look around on this site for ideas as how to build your own backhoe dolly.

 

[AJ623max28]

Hello millzentor I also own a mahindra max 28 and love it. I have personalized mine quite a bit one of which rear hyd was one. It is an open center system so it wants to have a constant flow to function or tank. I Plumd mine in between the loader and 3pt order of operation. Geting pressure from power beyond port on loader valve running to valves in back. Then placed a T in the tank line. So loader valve and rear valves share back to tank. Then because you need pressure going back to the 3 point I plumbed power beyond from rear valves into the line that originally went from power beyond off loader valve. I hope that makes sense. Because you have a backhoe it should be much easier you already have pressure line and power beyond the two you would have to connect together if removed backhoe and the other is just back to tank. So loader on mine takes priority then my rear remotes then 3 point. I have a top and tilt cylinder they are the best highly recommend. For the third function up front I have yet to motify but it would be about the same with just a electric valve. I hope I have helped a little .

 

[AJ623max28]

 

[millzenator]

Thanks for the tips, dickfoster. I have pics of several home made dollies, and it looks like a 20-30 minute job. I anticipate taking it on and off frequently. What size casters did you use for your dolly? Since my BH is not huge, I though 5" casters would be best, but certainly need to choose the right wheel material. I'm sure I'll be rolling it on the driveway, picking up grit onto the wheels.

 

[millzenator]

AJ623max28, love your setup! It looks like you've a 4-spool? What attachments are you using on the 3 point that you need the rear remotes for? I thought a 3-spool with one having a float would be nice. I could connect the float to the top or side link, depending on needs. What size cylinders did you end up with for the top and side links? I had thought about using one of the remotes for BH hookup if that's possible. Guess I'd have to tee into the return to tank and have a quick coupler for the backhoe return to tank line? Apologies for so many questions.

 

[AJ623max28]

Yes I have 4, 2 are normal spring to center valves, 1 is spring to center w/float, and the last one is a motor detent valve. I use mostly 2 for top and tilt cylinders I hope to get another tilt cylinder some day so both arms on my 3pt are hydraulic allowing more angles. I got mine from Fit Rite Hydraulics I could have made my own but for the money and time I would be into it, I figured I would purchase them and work on other projects. I'm glade I did the quality and support is amazing. Only down fall is the wait time. I have many projects on my list I need hyd's for to list a couple log splitter, press,pipe bender,etc... The way I was going to operate those was the motor detent to another valve on the attachment. Meaning I could start the tractor detent valve in direction needed hope off the tractor and operate the valve on the splitter or press. I hope that makes sense. I personally wouldn't run a backhoe off the motor detent because the flow will be restricted a lot more through the valve causing oil to heat up a lot. If I where you I would some how make the valve block quick attach so unhook backhoe and instead of reconnecting lines together attach all 3 to valve block for rear remotes.

 

[dickfoster]

Thanks for the tips, dickfoster. I have pics of several home made dollies, and it looks like a 20-30 minute job. I anticipate taking it on and off frequently. What size casters did you use for your dolly? Since my BH is not huge, I though 5" casters would be best, but certainly need to choose the right wheel material. I'm sure I'll be rolling it on the driveway, picking up grit onto the wheels.

I used large OD casters that I picked up at Harbor Frieght. 6" heavy duty, two fixed and two swivel.
I had to use larger wheels because the surface I use the dolly on is not paved, I did lay down a couple of sheets of 3/4" plywood. If you have a paved surface to work with you can use smaller casters. Just check that the capacity is rated high enough to withstand the weight. I figured my hoe at 1000 lbs and the casters are rated at 600lbs each.

Because my hoe sort of tilts and rolls out of the hooks I had to revisit and revise my dolly build once due to insufficient clearance to get the pins on the hoe to clear the hooks on the subframe.