Help Adding a Remote

   / Help Adding a Remote #1  

kubota2234

New member
Joined
Jun 22, 2008
Messages
24
Location
Taylorsville, NC
Tractor
2008 Kubota L3400 4x4 , 1992 Ford 1710, 2003 Ford F-250 4x4, 1993 Ford F350 4x4 Dump truck, 2005 20ft Hudson brothers trailer, 1996 Hoop 16' trailer
When it comes to hydraulics I am an idiot. I want to add 1 remote to the rear of my tractor. If I put a "T" in the inlet line and return line that goes to my Front end loader block, can i run these two lines to the rear to control a Hydraulic top link? I only need it for when i operate a BB? Other than controling the bb i need it for nothing else. I know that I willl have to put a controler for the rear but would this hurt anything? I have a 2008 kubota L-3400. Questions, Comments or Rude Remarks Wanted!!!!!!!!!!!
 
   / Help Adding a Remote #2  
It will not work.
Your loader valves are power beyond that feed the 3pt. T's will iust make a bypass for the loader valves.
You will need to get at least one remote from the tractor, not in the loader circuit. KennyV.
 
   / Help Adding a Remote #3  
Kenny is right as usual.
We are fortunate to have him and his hydraulic expertise.
Although plumbing hydraulics somewhat follows your thinking, unlike say a sprinkler system that still needs pressure to run it, hydraulic cylinders need lots of pressure to move them. If you tee off both the pressure and return lines to feed your rear remote valve (which you need to get) it will create a "by pass" route for the fluid to go. So when you try to use your loader valve, (which requires pressure to move the cylinders, the fluid would find the path of least resistance and just run through the "T" and through the rear remote valve ...then return to tank. When you go to use the rear remote valve, the fluid would end up running through your loader valve back to tank. In fact, none of your valves (3pt included) would work now because you have created a "by pass" situation in the hydraulic system like Kenny pointed out.

The valves we use on our CUT's are generally "Open Center" valves so fluid is always flowing through the valve until you activate the lever to send the fluid through a work port to the cylinder. Now, the pressurized fluid has no where to go except to that cylinder, thereby moving it. If the pressure gets to great for the cylinder to move anymore, it starts to go through a "pressure relief valve" usually found on one (or all) or the control valves such as your loader control valve. The fluid finds it's way to the least resistance again, activating the pressure relief valve and goes that way back to tank. The pressure relief valve is a safety for the hydraulic system so your pump (or line or seal) won't blow up under too much pressure. Your pump is constantly trying to pump fluid and it needs to go somewhere. The relief is usually set to a pressure that still allows your hydraulic cylinders to operate to their safe operation pressure before it starts to relieve.

In order to put another control valve into the system like you want to do for your rear remotes, you need to use the "power beyond" from the loader valve or another one and plumb that into your new valve. Your new valve will need a return to tank line (or sump) and that part can be teed back into another return line. The loader valve where you took the power beyond pressure from will need a return to tank also. If your new valve has to feed another valve down the line, you need to use the power beyond port from it, just like you did from the loader valve. Your new valve will still need a return to tank. All this type of plumbing allows the pressurized fluid to be directed to the work ports (and to the cylinder) that is being operated by that control valve.
So in a nut shell,( a big one:)) that's how that works.
I'm sure there are some things that I've left out or can be explained better than I did, and maybe someone else will chime in with that information for you.
 
   / Help Adding a Remote #4  
3RRL Rob, thanks but I think you may be thinking of Kennyd,
he definitely knows his stuff.
I try hard and have a lot of decades working with hydraulics. Anyway you covered the explanation as to why it will not work.
Just me KennyV.
 
   / Help Adding a Remote #5  
3RRL Rob, thanks but I think you may be thinking of Kennyd, he definitely knows his stuff.


:eek::eek::eek::eek:

Thanks Kenny, I replied to the OP in one of the other two threads he started on the same topic:D
 
   / Help Adding a Remote #6  
I apologize ... since indeed I was thinking of Kenny D in my initial reply.
He's always on top of things here. But that doesn't mean I think any less of your excellent comment.
It must be a "Kenny" thing with you hydraulic experts.:)
 
   / Help Adding a Remote
  • Thread Starter
#7  
SO in short what price range does this modification run???
 
   / Help Adding a Remote #8  
Sorry to say... you can have $700 +/- to get what you want. May be more than you want to spend just for a top link for BB...
BUT if you had a remote you might find a few other things to do with it... KennyV.
 

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