Help Choosing Multi Use tractor....

   / Help Choosing Multi Use tractor.... #1  

e.myers

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
133
Location
Springhill, SC
Tractor
Kubota L4400 4WD Hydrostat
I need a tractor, and I'm looking for max flexibility.
Here's the story.

My immediate property that will be maintained is 150 Acres. All but my yard, and 7 or so acres is planted in pine trees that vary in age (It's a tree farm, row planted, for timber production).

I have a lot of other interests, and my since my job schedule is flexible and on and off at times I dabble in some other things. Currently have a garden, but I'm also VERY Interested in starting a combination cut flower farm, nursery, a greenhouse or two, and possibly a small vegetable/fruit farm/orchard with the idea that it provides enough seasonal (+ some extended season) produce to be able to supply a small roadside produce stand a couple times per week or so. Both of my uncles "farm" small scale. One greenhouses, the other grapes (vineyard) and blueberries. I haven't approached them about this yet, but will certainly get their opinion too.

My current push and the primary reason for the tractor (right now) is that I have just cleared 6 acres of the pine trees. Stumps will be removed by a contractor starting Monday.

Land is growing up in weeds in a hurry, because the trees have been cut for a few months now.

The land was cleared for two reasons.
1. So that I can begin to make some use of the property for some of my interests listed above.
2. My two boys ride and race motorcycles and I want to build a training facillity/practice track for them.

This is how I see the tractor being used.
1. Rotary tiller a couple times a week to groom the track deep (probably 4 hours or so per week) track will be max 1 mile long and ballpark 15 feet wide.
2. Moving dirt. Contractor is to BURY all stumps removed, (in trenches he digs) below the ground surface. These trenches will be basically winrows below the ground, but with dirt taken out of the trenches and put back on top in mounds to settle as it may. This will be my source of dirt (clay primarily) for jumps etc, so it will get moved over time, but no real hurry. Truthfully, for the near future a turn track (no jumps) is acceptable. It's doubful I'll ever need to move anything heavier than dirt.
3. Maintaining driveways and logging type roads. Driveway is ballpark 1/4 mile and might need to be maintained a couple times a year. Primary Logging roads are a couple miles and will be maintained on an as needed basis, but rarely more than once per year.
4. Mowing areas around the track.
5. Mowing areas between rows in the orchard/blueberry/cutflower Annual Rows/cut flower perennial rows etc. Row dimensions have not been establishes.
6. Intersted in sustainability, so looking at rotating out cropland (where annual fruit and vegetables are grown), growing in green manure and or "hay", mowing and raking for mulch etc.
7. Maintain Trails in woods (some maybe the narrower the better, but not absolutely a major criteria as far as width goes). Would basically like to be able to bushog the trails while I carry a chainsaw for limbing up and cleaning up fallen trees etc.
8. Eventually will probably need to move palleted material (typical greenhouse stuff), and move bulk loose material with a front end loader.
9. Need to Drag 8 or so old cars around to hide somewhere or pull near a trailer to take to the scrap yard.
10. Ideally have ability to remove some random stumps.
11. We have other property elsewhere, but it is rarely maintained, so ease of transportation could be important at some point.

I think what I need is the smallest possible tractor (width), with the largest HP engine, that will pull a 4 or 5 foot wide bushog and rotary tiller. What I'm dealing with is the width of the tiller, determines the width of my "rows" (for annual vegetables and cut flowers), and the width of the bushog determines the width of the aisles (between the grapes, blueberries, annual cut flowers, and nursery trees).

All that being said, I don't see me farming more than 5 acres (combination farmland, greenhouses, vineyards).

Initially, smaller seems better for both the farm/greenhouse/nursery application, but something not quite so small seems more appropriate for track maintenance and moving dirt (at least initially). The smaller tractor and narrower implements would also be less expensive, which is a plus. Also more manueverable I believe. If I get a narrower tractor, with enough HP, can I put a wider front end loader on it? Can I run a tiller wider than the tractor?
Ground clearance is also a concern because I need to be able to drive the tractor over jumps/whoops etc, so the smaller tractor might have some issues. Side to side stability MAY be important, but typically I don't think I'd have concerns on the track with rolling the tractor. Weight is probably a factor too, meaning the heavier the better for the track work (I would think). Doesn't weight equate to traction and how much you can push. Also how much dirt I can lift with the front end loader.

Have also considered a skid steer, which would be ideal for track maintenance (with the rotary tiller out front) tracks etc, but my guess is that it's not going to be so good for "farming". I mean you're running over the land that you just tilled... maybe the tracks distribute the weight so it doesn't matter. Anyway, just seems limited in my mind for farm work, but could be great for greenhouse nursery type stuff I would imagine. Anyone?

Interested in anyones thoughts. How narrow can I go? What HP do I NEED? What would you do in this situation to provide for the max flexibility?
 
   / Help Choosing Multi Use tractor.... #2  
Well, A skidsteer is very useful for dirt work, maintaining trails and moving pallets of material. You can get hydraulic tillers and mowers for it to. If you dont want to leave tracks when you till, till in reverse. A track skidsteer has a high tipping load but is typically 5-7' wide. They are great for grading driveways and if you got a landpride quickhitch you could put nonPTO implements on it to like a boxblade. Skidsteers are very manuverable and the track units are very smoothe riding on rough terrain. A tractor is less manuverable with less of a tipping load and will ride rough on rough ground. I will sugest a JohnDeere CT315,CT322,and the CT332 for your application. Ive driven the 322 and 332 and they sure pack lots of power. Watch the Johndeere skidsteer smack down and the deeres are stronger, more stable and are easier to service than other brands. My step mom got her CT322 for 30K used from Pape machinery with 150 hours.
 
   / Help Choosing Multi Use tractor.... #3  
I've owned a Kubota B7510HST (21 hp engine, 17 hp pto, 4WD, hydrostatic transmission, power steering) and now have a Mahindra 5525 (54 hp engine, 45 hp pto, 2WD, gear tranny, power steering).

The Bota had an FEL with a 4-ft wide bucket with about 800 lb lift capacity. The track width was about 48". Cost in 2005 was $12,600

The 5525 has an FEL with a 6-ft wide bucket and about 2950 lb lift. Cost in 2008 was $17500.

You need more than 21 hp, but maybe not as much as 54 hp. Something like the Kubota L4400 or the new Mahindra Series 35 tractors, specifically the model 4035 might satisfy your requirements.

Farm tractors for Ag Farmers, Hobby Farmers - Sub Compact, Compact & Full Size 2WD & 4WD Utility Tractors

Whatever you decide on, be sure to get chain hooks welded to the bucket and dual or triple hydraulic remotes added on the rear of the tractor. I would also recommend highly that your FEL have a skid-steer quick attach plate.

You probably would be better served with a hydrostatic transmission rather than a synchro-shift gear tranny since it appears that you may be doing a lot of FEL work (frequent forward and reverse motion).

Test drive before you buy.
 
   / Help Choosing Multi Use tractor.... #4  
1. Rotary tiller a couple times a week to groom the track deep (probably 4 hours or so per week) track will be max 1 mile long and ballpark 15 feet wide.

I know you know more about this than I do. I got a Trail 90 in 1968. I don't think you call that a motor cycle today.

Are you sure you want to roto-till all that race track? Would a disc harrow or other drag type cultivar do just as well "deep" and be faster? Is the tilling what is done at the tracks where your boys race.

You WILL want the tiller for the vegatables and cut flowers. I studied all that stuff in collage got a masters degree in horticulture. All very intersting and lots of hard outside work. Now I write computer programs, times change.

I have no tractor advice to offer, cause I don't know anything about that.
 
   / Help Choosing Multi Use tractor.... #5  
When I was looking for my tractor I was seriously looking at the 300 and 400 series John Deere tractors before finally deciding to go with the larger Kubota. I would take a look at the JD 3520 and the JD4320.
The 3520 has a 37 HP Yanmar engine. The 4320 has a 48 hp , 4 cylinder PowerTech engine. I really liked the 400CX FEL with a lift capacity of 2600# compared to the 300cx on the 3520 only having a capacity of 2125#.

The 4320 is a sweet tractor. I think it would be large enough to complete the tasks you are looking for but also not too big.
Whatever you choose, good luck in your search......
 
   / Help Choosing Multi Use tractor....
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Based on the replies, looks like I'm looking around in the right ballpark.
Unfortunately, Mahindra is not an option around here.
As much as I'd like to get a skid steer, realistically, 30 grand used plus attachments that are close to twice as much, probably is not realistic for me. That being said, the skid steer does come with the front end loader, and the quick attach, so that's an expense that I wouldn't be adding to the cost of the unit that I will need to add to the tractor. So, around 22,000 for new tractor with front end loader vs 30,000 for skid steer used (with front end loader).

OK, so what are my limitations as far as what I want to do going to be with the skidsteer vs the tractor? It would be tough to justify 8000.00 difference, but maybe. Any other implements that I don't need for the skid steer that I would need for the tractor? why would I need a boxblade for a skidsteer for instance? If I tilt the bucket with the teeth pointing down, doesn't that function as a different type of tool? Can't I DIG down into the ground with the skid steer (which you're not really supposed to do with a FEL correct?).


Anyway, My choices for tractors relatively locally are (sorry no mahindra):
John Deere (dealer 15min away)
Massey Furgeson (20 min away)
Kubota (45 min)
New Holland (45)
Bobcat (1 hour)
Cub Cadet (1.5+)

So far the tractors I have looked at are:
John Deere 4105 (I think I've gotten a no BS very good price on this particular tractor). (BP Sooner, is the 4320 a whole lot more tractor than this?) Haven't looked at the 3000 series. Do they offer a hydrostatic drive in that line?
Kubota L4400, L3940, L3240 (all with hydro).
Bobcat CT235 & up
Have not seen the Massey Furgesons yet, but the new models with hydro drive look interesting to me on paper.

Obviously, there are smaller HP tractors in all these product lines, that maybe I should consider, but right now these are all I've looked at.

DATANULL-
I work on computers all day too. Contract Designer/Detailer. Some days I've just had enough and start looking for a change. Don't think I want to Farm all day everyday, but mixing it up some seems right to me. So, with your background, what size do I want to make my aisles between perennial cut flowers and grapes, and trees? Is 5 feet too wide?

FLUSHER-
What are the chain hooks on the bucket for. Yes, I'm only considering hydro right now.

EVERYONE-
Forgetting HP for the moment, can I get consensus from everyone on the max width and min width I'd want to go to accomplish all these tasks?

Similar question for HP. Flusher mentioned somewhere between 21 & 54.


Thanks.
 
   / Help Choosing Multi Use tractor.... #7  
So, with your background, what size do I want to make my aisles between perennial cut flowers and grapes, and trees? Is 5 feet too wide?
Thanks.

I don't know. But if you want to drive the tractor between the rows I think that may be too narrow.

What about tilling that race track?
 
   / Help Choosing Multi Use tractor.... #8  
The 4320, in my opinion, is an upscale version of the 4105. For one, the 4105 has a 3 cylinder engine while the 4320 is a 4 cylinder engine. The FEL is a 300cx, which cannot handle as much weight as the 400cx on the 4320.

The 4320 is also a heavier tractor. Over 700 pounds difference. I would also suggest you look at the 4120. It is comparable to the 4105 in hp but is comparable to the 4320 in the other features. It has the 4 cylinder and the 400cx FEL.

All these models, including the 3520 have the Hydo available.... Good Luck
 
   / Help Choosing Multi Use tractor.... #9  
e. myers welcome to the forum. It sounds to me like you are on the right track. (excuse the pun) As you are most likely finding out tractors are like trucks. You may be able to find a truck that gets 30+ mpg but it is unlikely that truck will also haul a 15,000 lbs trailer. It is all a compromise so you are looking for a tractor that will fit most of your needs most of the time.

A couple of general points. The rule of thumb for rotary mowers is 5 pto hp per foot of mower. You seem to be leaning towards a tractor that will be around 60" wide so something with around 25 PTO hp will let you run a mower that covers your tracks. That will generally be a 30 to 35 hp tractor. I would not get to hung up on tilling between rows of crops or flowers. You loose a lot of planting area if you space your rows 5 or 6' apart. With any veggie crops that put out runners like melons, squash or bush beans it will only work so long anyway. Farmers set their rows so the tires run on either side of a planted row and use a cultivator set up to do weed control on several rows at a time while the crop is young enough. I also think a disk would be a good answer to the track maintenance. Tilling a mile long track a couple of times a week that will take 3 passes to do 15' wide is going to take much more time than you are estimating. Tilling is not a fast process even in ground that has been worked. Pay attention to the lift capabilities of the loader on the tractors you look at and get one that has a quick release type bucket so you can use pallet forks for your pallet needs. My experience with bulk materials delivered on pallets is that they are often well over 1000 lbs which exceeds the limits of loaders on many of the small tractors.

Good luck on your search. Do a lot of reading here on the forum there is a great deal of information in the archives.

MarkV
 
   / Help Choosing Multi Use tractor.... #10  
Chain hooks come in handy. Here's what I have on the Mahindra 5525--two grab hooks on the outside and a D-ring slide hook at the middle with 1/4" reforcement welded to the bucket to attach the hooks.

DSCF0064 (Small).JPG

They come in handy for lifting things

DSCF0153 (Small).JPG

and pulling things from the ground

DSCF0161 (Small).JPG

DSCF0162 (Small).JPG

You get the idea. The hooks extend the usefulness of your FEL a lot.
 

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