***HELP*** Huskee 22 ton splitter problems

[Fishcapades]

***HELP*** Huskee 22 ton splitter problems

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Hey guys im having some problems with a log splitter I picked up.
Its a huskee 22 ton with a 6hp brigs on it. As i was using it sunday. It started looseing its power. it seamed like it wasnt putting out its full tonage..

Its not the motor. I was splitting ash wood and was splitting rounds up to 24" in diameter.

Ive never had a problem before.

Guy I work with said that its cause the cylinder was geting hot and they have a bypass in side them when they get hot so they wont put out the full tonage. Is this true? He also said there not made to be used in warm weather, but it was only 56 degrees.

Ive never had a problem before.

I change the fluid and filter and still no diffrence

My pump dose leak a bit it, could this be my problem?
Could the seals in my cylinder be shot....


Carl

 

[Ford850]

It has nothing to do with warm weather. I'm assuming you're familiar with the 2 stage pump and how it will "shift down" for the full tonage strength in tough wood. That slows the cycle time to about half, but you shouldn't see that when running the splitter with no wood. If it's a newer model from TSC, it's a SpeeCo brand. You can call them for support too. 800-525-8322

 

[john_bud]

Do you have a filter or screen on it? Could be blocked.

jb

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Hello Carl,

Ford850 is correct, you can use that splitter when it's 95 degrees out with no issues.

I would try first changing the fluid and filter. You may have old fluid in there and it may have become aerated.

Or, it sounds like the pump is worn out, but you should troubleshoot it before you practice swapping out parts. You need a 3kpsi pressure gauge and adapter fittings. Put the gauge between the pump outlet and the valve. Start the engine and run the cylinder to it's end, note the pressure. Check the manual, but I believe it should be over 2kpsi but I don't think you are getting that much. I like to place a high pressure ball valve in there also so I can isolate the pump from the relief valve and the cylinder. You don't close the valve all the way, you will definately change a pump then, but you can really restrict the flow to see if your pump will build the pressure it should. Flow means nothing in this case, pressure is the power to split the wood. I have changed way more pumps on these than anything else. When you dead end the cylinder, listen for the engine to strain. There also may be an adjustment on the side of the pump. Remove the cap and turn it in a turn and see what kind of power it has. This may be a temporary fix if the pump is bad.

BTW, that cylinder absolutely does not have a temp controlled bypass in it.

Good luck, Andy

 

[Fishcapades]

Thanks Andy...

Im going to stop off at the harware store and pick up the needed items.. DO i really need a high pressure ball valve to do this test?

The pump dose leak but its not that much...

Ill try what you suggested and get back to you and let you know what i find out... This is drivine me bonkers....

Carl

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Carl,

Here's the problem. You can hook up a pressure gauge to the pump, but the relief valve could be bypassing fluid causing your pressure drop. Not likely, because I have changed infinitely more pumps than relief valves, but possible. That's why I have some 7250 psi ball valves around. If I were in your shoes, and just from my experience, if the fluid and filter didn't help, I would change the pump.

Andy