Help installing block heater

[George in Spokane]

I bought a block heater and the service manual from Rick Wallace. Does anyone know how to install it?

I assume I need to pry out a freeze plug but I'm not sure how and the manual doesn't say anything.


Thanks

 

[WSJ]

Rick? Please give George some real advice!

Nothing like installing a block heater in the dead of winter, eh? That's when I did mine last year.

Yes, gently tap the freeze plug out with a hammer and chisel or big screw driver. I tapped on one side until the lip raised on the other, then grabbed the lip with channel locks and yanked it out. I think it's important not to whack the plug too hard because you don't want your chisel or the plug driven into what's behind it.

It took me a while to get the heater in straight because I didn't remove the loader and clearance was at a minimum (CK 25 & KL-130). And of course I figured that out after draining the system and removing the freeze plug. I used a large socket and extension to set the block heater base (I guess you call it that). You do have to take the heater apart to install it. Good luck. -WSJ

 

[George in Spokane]

Thanks WSJ. Where and what side of the machine did you install it in? Also did you just tap/pound it in?

 

[WSJ]

On the CK-25 the one most accessible (I assume there's more than 1) was on the left. And yes, you just tap the heater in. Seems like the instructions called for a sealant or locktite or something.

 

[wallace]

Follow these steps...

1. Drain radiator
2. remove driverside engine panel
3. Locate the soft plug just in front of the starter
4. With a long screwdriver tap the plug in on one of the corners, using a pair of pliers pull the plug out.
5. Clean the hole
6. Apply some red loc-tite to the drive in bushing, using a socket and a long extension tap the bushing in it will not go all the way in, it will bottom out on the clylinder wall so be careful not to hit to hard.
7. Apply pipe tape around the threads and install the element into the bushing.
8. prior to installing the plug I put soapy water on the end that way when you tighten up the nut it helps so you don't end up twisiting the cord.

Sorry I didn't post sooner I had Firefighter schooling today.

 

[George in Spokane]

Thanks!

 

[dilbertnomore]

Mr. Wallace -

Please PM me the cost of one of a freeze plug block heater for a CK25 delivered to 24590. Doesn't get too cold in Central Virginia, but for the odd snow storm it might make the difference.

Thanks.

 

[WSJ]

dilbertnomore: I promise you it's worth the $$ and little bit of effort to install.

My CK25 started all winter long in northern PA and then upstate NY its first couple years without one. But it'd take at least 2 glow plug cycles and it just didn't sound happy to be trying to start at temps below 20. Since adding the block heater (and switching to synthetic oil) it spins right over and starts every time after only a single glow plug cycle at even below zero temps. And it's got to be easier on the machine.

Get one - they're well worth the $60 or so they cost. -WSJ

 

[George in Spokane]

Well, I guess it's in.

The freeze plug came out pretty easily but I ended up poking a hole in it. Getting the drive-in-bushing to go in was difficult since the FEL was in the way. I ended up leaving the bushing outside in the 25 deg weather to shrink it. It is designed to only go in about 1/2 an inch so I worry it could fall out. If that happens I lose all my antifreeze and cook the engine.

I warmed up the engine and everything held but I still don't trust it. I really don't like opening a hole in my engine block and not being able to screw in a plug. I understand that freeze plugs can not have threads, but an extra threaded hole from the factory with a bung would be very welcome.

For others, the heater I used says Kat's Heaters but it also has a TISCO sticker with the code GE11461 and 70000-92500.

 

[George in Spokane]

more pictures

 

[George in Spokane]

So there I am yesterday using a cultivator when I start to smell tranny fluid. I look at the gauges - temp is fine and no idiot lights.

The machine was working hard so I wondered if the HST "clutch" was having some trouble. Hmmm... a little while later the smell got stronger and a bit sweet. Almost done... hmmm... Why would a clutch smell sweet?...

Temp is 3/4 over


Walking back to the garage to get antifreeze I pass the little ******* in the dirt.

Moral of the story: never open a hole in your engine without threads to hold in the plug.

 

[JoelD]

Hi George,

Sorry to hear about your frustrations, nothing worse than something you've thought about and worried about and tried to avoid then happening.

What will be your next steps?

I got a hose heater for my tractor, I figured the worste that could happen would be going through an extra hose in the process of figuring out installation and having a botched first try.

Good luck George,
Joel

 

[Highbeam]

Wow. I've got to wonder if you washed out all of the anti-seize during install. You can see it bleeding down the block. Did you clean the hole out before driving the bushing in? I know you didn't dry it out.

I think I would prefer the generic hose type.

 

[IXLR8]

When I bought my used CK30, it had a radiator hose heater in it. The heater was leaking slightly, dealer said it was just spilled coolant left over from topping off radiator. Before I took delivery I asked him to double check and let me know, on delivery he said that it was leaking and he put in a new one. So... the radiator hose heaters can leak as well. On the other hand... I have never seen any reason to use it. Tractor is outside and has always started right up, even in sub-zero temps.

 

[Highbeam]

There's a leaky hose clamp and then there is the kind of leak that happens when your block heater falls out.

 

[George in Spokane]

Wow. I've got to wonder if you washed out all of the anti-seize during install. You can see it bleeding down the block. Did you clean the hole out before driving the bushing in? I know you didn't dry it out.


Thanks for the support guys.

The red stuff dripping down is threadlocker. There was no anti-seize on the freeze plug. I also dried the hole and roughed it up and the heater with 200 grit sandpaper. Then I used a damp cloth to remove any possible dust and dried it again. I also heated the garage up to 70 degrees.

No, the problem is that I did not drive the heater in far enough. It seemed to bottom out but is was very difficult to apply enough force. If someone is determined to do it I would recommend leveraging against the FEL arm.

The hose heaters are a good idea but I'm a little wary of more surgery. Last winter I added a battery heater so I may just stick with that and a long idle period.

 

[brackenrig]

Last year I had trouble with block heaters on my new dk55. The dealer installed heater kept buning out every time I used it.The element kept touching the cylinder sleeve every time they screwed in a replacment . On about the third time the bushing that holds the element pushed out the complete unit and lost most of the antifreeze. The brand the dealer was using was Kat as well. Instesd of waiting for the dealer to go through the same routine again I went into the local CarQuest parts store and found a similar heater element with a half inch shorter element . I think the the brand name was sub Zero and it is ment for Kubota tractors. Since changing out the element I have had no problems since.

 

[Highbeam]

Wow. I've got to wonder if you washed out all of the anti-seize during install. You can see it bleeding down the block. Did you clean the hole out before driving the bushing in? I know you didn't dry it out.


Thanks for the support guys.

The red stuff dripping down is threadlocker. There was no anti-seize on the freeze plug. I also dried the hole and roughed it up and the heater with 200 grit sandpaper. Then I used a damp cloth to remove any possible dust and dried it again. I also heated the garage up to 70 degrees.

No, the problem is that I did not drive the heater in far enough. It seemed to bottom out but is was very difficult to apply enough force. If someone is determined to do it I would recommend leveraging against the FEL arm.

The hose heaters are a good idea but I'm a little wary of more surgery. Last winter I added a battery heater so I may just stick with that and a long idle period.

Woops, I called the lok-tite anti-seize. I saw it running down the block and thought it was maybe because of dilution with coolant and was washed out. So are you going to try and replace the freeze plug now? Seems just as risky.

 

[George in Spokane]

Yes, I put the freeze plug back in. It is flexible so I think it is holding itself in. I had punched a hole in it when getting it out so I just welded it up.

 

[wheeldokter]

Well, I guess it's in.

The freeze plug came out pretty easily but I ended up poking a hole in it. Getting the drive-in-bushing to go in was difficult since the FEL was in the way. I ended up leaving the bushing outside in the 25 deg weather to shrink it. It is designed to only go in about 1/2 an inch so I worry it could fall out. If that happens I lose all my antifreeze and cook the engine.

I warmed up the engine and everything held but I still don't trust it. I really don't like opening a hole in my engine block and not being able to screw in a plug. I understand that freeze plugs can not have threads, but an extra threaded hole from the factory with a bung would be very welcome.

For others, the heater I used says Kat's Heaters but it also has a TISCO sticker with the code GE11461 and 70000-92500.

hello

i have a question. i have the same idea with my isuzu engine that the hole behind the frost plug is not deep enough. do you know where you can buy this adaptor and block heater?

thanks marcel