Help Mounting a Curtis Cab on JD 970

rmallaire · Dec 2, 2019

I purchased a cab that was described to have come off a John Deere 1250. I am looking to mount it onto a John Deere 970. I can already tell I will have to fabricate front posts from to connect from floor boards or loader mount to bottom windshield. The width in read puts it about over the fenders. I am hesitant on drilling into the fenders to mount the rear of cab but I am unaware of what correct mounting hardware I should be using. The rear of cab supports measures 32", while between my 970 fenders measures 28" inside to inside; therefore I believe I have to mount it over the fenders. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

chim · Dec 2, 2019

I'd want to mount it to the loader frame, ROPS, etc and stay away from mounting it on sheet metal (floor, fenders, etc). It will break sheet metal. There must be something solid you could mount to. I built a cab for one of my tractors and it mounts on 4 solid points - 2 on ROPS and 2 on loader frame. Still solid after 7 years.

rmallaire · Dec 3, 2019

Chim,
Thank you for the reply. I agree that 4 solid points is the way to go. How did you fasten it to the ROPS? I don稚 want to drill or weld to the ROPS, perhaps a square/ rectangular clamp attached to each side of the ROPS could fasten to the cab?

pmsmechanic · Dec 3, 2019

Some day I would like to build/buy a cab for my 4410. My thoughts were to build it in such a way that the whole cab slides over the ROPS. then I could just set up a block and tackle and lift the cab off for the summer. Some clamps on the ROPS and also fastened to the front end loader mounts and the mounting should be quite solid.

chim · Dec 3, 2019

rmallaire said:
Chim,
Thank you for the reply. I agree that 4 solid points is the way to go. How did you fasten it to the ROPS? I don稚 want to drill or weld to the ROPS, perhaps a square/ rectangular clamp attached to each side of the ROPS could fasten to the cab?

Don't call the ROPS Cops. The L3200 doesn't fit in the shed with the ROPS up. It's been folded since new. The cab was built so it clears the overhead door by a couple inches. On the rear frame of the cab, I welded a pair of clip angles that sit on top of the folded ROPS. These clips support the rear of the cab for weight. Then I welded short pieces of tube steel to the sides of the cab frame and bolted through them into the ROPS nuts. If you have clearance for the ROPS, there are a number of ways you could do it. One is as you mentioned. If I did that I'd look for a way to add "legs" of some sort that would bear on something solid so the clamps weren't holding the weight.

The third picture is a mirror image of the FEL suppport on the right side. Both front supports are short pieces of angle that sit on the supports and are bolted to them. The cab was built in pieces so it can be removed, but I only took it off the first Summer. Lifting the doors off more or less makes the cab a canopy. If you're bored some evening, here's my build:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/263920-diy-cab-finally-decided-time.html

rmallaire · Dec 4, 2019

pmsmechanic said:
Some day I would like to build/buy a cab for my 4410. My thoughts were to build it in such a way that the whole cab slides over the ROPS. then I could just set up a block and tackle and lift the cab off for the summer. Some clamps on the ROPS and also fastened to the front end loader mounts and the mounting should be quite solid.

Thank you for the reply. I have been contemplating having the ROPS on the outside or inside of cab; I have seen both methods when looking at homemade kits. Does anyone have a reason for preference either way?

rmallaire · Dec 4, 2019

Thank you for following up with the pictures Chim. I want to essentially replicate that design. I will be bolting my front mounts to the loader mount so that the loader can still be removable. As for the ROPS, I am either going to buy square u-bolts, or weld tabs onto the bar.

Sportsman762 · Dec 6, 2019

I would U bolt it on and use thin rubber pads between the roof and the rops to eliminate squeaks and rattling. You could also use thin rubber were you bolt it to the loader mast to also reduce noise. I would not weld on the rops.