Help with an F3060 axel pivot leak.

[Ck27]

Hi,

So after 2 months of reading, test driving and of course a few posts on some forums I decide to buy an f3060 Kubota.

Local government had several for sale for about $3200 US so I figured at that price I'd go have a look. Ended up buying a 2004 with a 60" rear discharge deck and 2500 hours in the clock. I wanted a 72" deck but the guy before me that morning bought the other 4 that were for sale so this 60" was the only one left.

It's in pretty good shape, it's been serviced by the book it's whole life and it seems like it's free of any issues.

Today after my first mowing I noticed the rear axel pivot has a leak.

I checked the fluid and it was almost full so that was a good sign.

I looked at the schematic in the shop manual and it looks like there is a bushing and an oring that seals the pivot? Looks like I would be fairly straight forward to replace the orings.

My question is when replacing the orings should I install new bushings as well? I'd like to do this repair once and getting rid of this leak on the first go at it would be nice.

Here's a few pics cause pics make every thread better

 

[arto98607]

I think it's best to replace worn bushings while you have it taken apart - there is also an adjustment bolt in the back.

 

[Ck27]

I think it's best to replace worn bushings while you have it taken apart - there is also an adjustment bolt in the back.

I jacked up the mower and put the rear end on jack stands. I checked for fore and aft movement and it had some slop. I adjusted the pivot bolt and it's all tight now.

But now that I've been watching it over the last week with use it appears that leak is actually the rear axel input shaft seal where the drive shaft goes in. It's leaking from the center and running down the rear axel pivot mounts and is making it look like a pivot leak.

Shold be an easy fix by the look of it. There's no slop in the input shaft so I'm guessing the seal has shrunken and is the cause of the leak.

 

[arto98607]

Mine has 3500 hrs. and the exact same input shaft seal leak, but the previous owner had let the oil run pretty low...
Hired help driving.

I will take the axle apart sometime this fall and see what all is needed - we are using another mower in the meantime. This will be our next mower once fixed.

Sounds like you got the shop manuals etc., but please let me know if you are missing any important manuals?

 

[arto98607]

By the way - your "new" mower looks pretty good, thanks for the photos!

I think you got it at a very good price.

 

[Ck27]

Mine has 3500 hrs. and the exact same input shaft seal leak, but the previous owner had let the oil run pretty low...
Hired help driving.

I will take the axle apart sometime this fall and see what all is needed - we are using another mower in the meantime. This will be our next mower once fixed.

Sounds like you got the shop manuals etc., but please let me know if you are missing any important manuals?

One I'd the reasons I bought this one was from reading a few of your othere posts.

I have the owners manual for a the 60 series and a shop manual for the 80 series mowers.

I haven't found a copy of the shop manual for the 3060 yet but I found schematics online with all the part numbers.

Other then the rear leak this machine seems tight, everything works as it should. I've been cutting my back 4 acres of pasture that I normally cut with my tractor and a 60" bush hog. It is so much faster using the 3060!!

On slopes this thing goes up and down with no issues. My ditches are 30 plus degrees and I have no issues mowing across them.

Back to the leak.

I think I'll sort my leak out sooner then later as I hate having to check the rear end every time I mow even though is barely gone down on the stick.

Looks like all I'll have to do is jack it up, remove the front pivot bracket and driveshaft and simply install a new seal.

Thanks,

Steve

 

[Ck27]

By the way - your "new" mower looks pretty good, thanks for the photos!

I think you got it at a very good price.

The city by me normally auctions surplus equipment. Lately they have been selling them off at very low prices. They are so low the guy selling them said he can't keep them in stock longer then a few days. I had the second appointment of this group if mowers and by the time I went to look the first 4 were sold all to the same guy. He bought the other 4 for about $12,800.

This one has new tires on the rear, new airfilter, hydro fluid is new, and basically everything worked.

Only issue other then the leak was the 4 mounting bolts that hold the gear box on were stripped so the whole deck sounded like a dryer full of nuts and bolts!!!

I'm so glad I didn't buy a ztr as that's what I was looking at as used f series don't come up for sale often and when they do they are very expensive.

 

[arto98607]

I will send you a private message.

 

[arto98607]

I finally decided to attack the rear axle pivot oil leak in my F3060

All it really needed was oil seal (part 060) in the enclosed differential parts drawing, but while at it I took apart both bevel gear housings and replaced all oils seals, dust seals, O-rings and couple of snap rings & wear bushings.

Lot of parts but like most things it's pretty easy once you figure it out!

(By the way, all gears and bearings still looked very good with hardly any signs of wear.)

Next time the oil seal 060 can easily be replaced by just disconnecting the drive shaft and prying out the old seal - no need to take it all apart if it ever leaks again but I figured with over 3500 hours of use it was time to check out and replace all seals




Rear Differential:


Bevel Gear Case:


Bevel Gear Shaft:

 

[orgt]

I have a similar leak on my trusty F3060 which just got to 2,500 hours.
I called my local dealer and they have the "OIL SEAL" (mentioned by the OP as 060) in stock (part 76611-12130, about $11.) Apologies for the dumb questions but here goes:
1) how does one remove that real-wheel drive shaft to replace that oil seal? Do you start by removing the two big bolts that hold the big V-shaped bracket that holds the shaft on the rear side? What next?
2) on my tractor this shaft has a roughly 1/2 inch front/back play, is this normal? The leak is not at either end but between the above-mentioned bracket and the rear case housing.
Any tip is much appreciated !