Help with Blade removal on Baler

   / Help with Blade removal on Baler #1  

horsebroke

Bronze Member
Joined
May 15, 2007
Messages
62
Location
Western Colorado
Tractor
TYM T450
I recently acquired an S-69 New Holland Baler. Oldie-but-goodie. Was successful in baling my first cutting - 500+ bales off 6 acres! Now that we're between cuttings, I'm doing maintenance...

Any ideas on how to get the blade off? It's the blade attached to the ram, held on by 3ea countersunk screws (no nuts on back) with 5/16" hex socket-heads. I've tried WD-40, heat, impact wrench, impact socket - all to no avail. I finally got one of the 3 screws off - but the other 2 are stuck fast.

Any ideas how I can get these last 2 screws out? Access is VERY limited, and difficult.

Thanks in advance
 
   / Help with Blade removal on Baler #2  
horsebroke said:
I recently acquired an S-69 New Holland Baler. Oldie-but-goodie. Was successful in baling my first cutting - 500+ bales off 6 acres! Now that we're between cuttings, I'm doing maintenance...

Any ideas on how to get the blade off? It's the blade attached to the ram, held on by 3ea countersunk screws (no nuts on back) with 5/16" hex socket-heads. I've tried WD-40, heat, impact wrench, impact socket - all to no avail. I finally got one of the 3 screws off - but the other 2 are stuck fast.

Any ideas how I can get these last 2 screws out? Access is VERY limited, and difficult.

Thanks in advance

Well, first off toss the WD 40 away and buy some Kroil or PB blaster. Both of these work great at loosening stuck bolts and such. I use to use WD40 up till someone told me about Kroil. I then found PB Blaster at TSC and other stores and could not believe the difference. I will never buy another can of WD40.

If you do go with PB Blaster (it is easiest to find) spray the screws and walk away. Come back a few hours later and hit them again (don't need a lot, just enough to get it wet. If you can get to both sides of the screw then spray both sides as it will work a lot faster and better.

It may not work but it will work a lot better then WD40 and it may be just enough to help loosen those screws up. If that fails and RickB or any of the others fails to come up with a better way then drill them out. But on the bright side, you should only have to do this once hopefully.
 
   / Help with Blade removal on Baler #3  
Those 2 "screws" are plow bolts. They have a flat head and are captured by a square hole in the knife. If you can't budge them, tighten them up until they snap. Replace with new parts. This method saves time, energy and blood pressure. A good strong air impact wrench knows what to do. Replacement parts are at TSC. There should be 2 of these knives: a stationary one on the bale case and one on the plunger. Be sure to keep track of where all the shims are when its time to put it all back together...

If you can't get enough on it, empty the hay out and pull the connecting rod on the plunger. Then yank it out thru the tail end and talk to it real bluntly. Extra points for extra unnecessary parts.... !:)
 

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