Help with my hydraulics on my TN

Robert_in_NY · Jan 22, 2005

I will be the first to admit that I know very little about hydraulic systems. It is something I have never needed to learn about till now and even then I can get by without knowing just yet. Anyway here is my situation.

On my TN if you raise the loader and leave it in the air the bucket will uncurl over time. This happens if the tractor is running or shut down but when I shut down I usually set the loader on the ground. Also, every now and then the bucket cylinders get some play in them. To explain is kind of hard but is like this, if I am cutting brush and hit a bump the bucket flops up and down (not the loader frame just the bucket). When it happens I have tu use the joystick and more or less put tension on it. It acts like it has either a air leak somewhere or maybe there is air in it somehow. If this is the problem how do I get rid of it? If it isn't the problem what could it be? This does not seem to be a serious problem and I have only really noticed it on the bucket curl so I can get by with it. I have not talked to my dealer yet and thought if I can fix it I would before I bother them. If I can't I will have them take care of it. Thanks for your time guys.

jinman · Jan 22, 2005

Robert, this sounds like the "classic" internal cylinder leak. Yours is just starting to go bad. Since the bucket curl cylinders are in parallel, only one has to leak to cause that problem. The fluid is going past the internal seal and to the other side, so it doesn't have to go through the joystick control valve at all.

There are lots of tests that could be done, but I bet your dealer would tell you the same thing. The real decision is whether you will do the job or let him. The rebuild kit is normally fairly cheap. If your dealer does the job, it will probably be around $200 if you don't have a bent ram. The seal kit will probably be less than $50.

JerryG · Jan 22, 2005

Robert,
It is leak down. It could be the cylinders or the valve. If you had a load in the bucket and was traveling any distance it would be worse. If it is empty, how often do you have to pressurize it and how far does the tip of the bucket move when you do, for that time interval? If would notice it much less if you weren't doing anything to make it bounce.

Robert_in_NY · Jan 22, 2005

Thanks Jim and Jerry, didn't think about the cylinders being the problem.

As for how bad it leaks down, during normal mowing when I am not using the loader (it is just up in transport) I notice it droping about every 20 minutes. You don't see it move but all of the sudden when you look at the bucket you can see the top of the bucket isn't where it is supposed to be. While disking and I have the bucket filled for weight it is about every 10-15 minutes. When I notice it the cylinder is usually extended about an inch or two more then full retract.

When the tractor is parked but still running you can hear the bucket let down every few minutes. It is not a gradual let down but all of the sudden you hear it creak and it uncurls a little bit each time you hear it.

So if this is the problem it should not be that big of a deal to fix. Makes me feel better. Thanks guys.

JASTN70D · Jan 22, 2005

Robert

It does definitely sound like leak down. Do your self a favor and find a good hydraulic shop. I took in a cylinder about the same size for leak down and the guy changed the seals at the counter in 5 minutes I think the kit cost me $ 25.00 These items are quite standard. I did disassemble the cylinder first though.

jinman · Jan 22, 2005

Robert, if you have the time and want to prove it's the cylinders, you can put the loader flat on the ground with a load in it and then disconnect your bucket curl quick-connects to create a hydraulic lock. Raise the loader arms. The bucket will sag a bit and then stop. If it continues to sag slowly as it does now, it's the cylinders leaking internally. If it doesn't continue to sag at all, then the problem is probably in the joystick valve.

Of course, you want to make sure your quick-connects are not seeping or this won't work. This is about the quickest way I know to help isolate this problem. It doesn't sound like your problem is very severe, but it is enough to be an irritation.

ZJ_HR · Jan 22, 2005

Robert,
Do you have 4 separate quick couplers for hydraulics hoses, or one integral quick attach connector? Does your loader have separate loader valve with joystick, or you use rear remotes installed on tractor?

If you have separate couplers, replace lifting and curl pair of couplers, to determine is leak in valve or cylinders (as you mentioned that you haven't problem with lifting part).
Probably Jim and others determined correctly internal cylinder leak, just check to be sure /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Hope this helps,

Robert_in_NY · Jan 22, 2005

Thanks again everyone. My TN has three sets of remotes off the rear. The Joystick works two sets of remotes. I will swap hoses around and see what happens one of these days. This has been going on for a while now and I am not in the mood to play around with this when it is 10 degrees outside /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif But at least I know what to look for when it warms up again. Later.