HELP!~ with the 4110 Fuel Solenoid, Thermistor or what

[millsnhills]

I was certainly due for a breakdown I have had this tractor for going on 13 years and 900 hours and it has never broken down.

The tractor cut off twice on me last week just working around the house but started back up and ran fine at med-rpms. This week my son was using on a landscape job and it stopped and would not start back.

Got it home checked fuses, wiring, connectors etc., but the big thing I noticed was the lack of the click from the solenoid.

I know that the Fuel Solenoid is not clicking and while there is plenty of power on the battery is just turns as would be the case with the Solenoid. I am picking up a Thermistor tomorrow simply because it is so cheap and will likely have to order a service manual because I am sure my dealer would not keep that in stock(so I will have to wait).

My issue is that I want to try to get it started just to remove the loader to get in my garage or into the shop, it is impossible to work on with the loader. I was able to get the breather unit disassembled and pretty good access to the solenoid. The first nut was a challenge but got it remove but how in the world does one get the nut off on the backside of the solenoid?? The has to be a trick or something. Are their any tricks to get the solenoid to retrack while still on the tractor and if i do by chance get it off can I manual move the pin to get it started to get the loader removed?

Thanks

Jeff

 

[JD755]

A quick glance at the 4110 schematic would indicate it does not use a thermistor, but rather a timer circuit in the control module driving a relay. if there is power to the hold coil you should be able to manually move the solenoid and have it stay on while the tractor is in use.

 

[millsnhills]

Thanks JD755, now to jet be able to get that second bolt out!

 

[joecdeere]

Jeff, manual is on the way

Joe

 

[millsnhills]

Jeff, manual is on the way

Joe

Thanks so much Joe!!! Anybody have advice on inside bolt removal would be greatly appreciated..

J

 

[al3]

Your no-run condition can be caused by a couple of components; relay, solenoid, safety interlocks and control box.
I’d start by looking for 12 volts on both the leads going to the shut off solenoid. Look at the wiring diagram posted elsewhere. One lead should have a constant 12v, the other should have 12 volts for 1 second. If the 12v for 1 second lead has no voltage, (and the other does), you can remove the spade from the plastic housing/connector and do a momentary jump. I used a 14 gage wire with alligator clips, one end to the battery, the other to the solenoid lead. If you’re by yourself, a momentary switch will also be needed so you can turn the key switch and provide the voltage at the same time. For a onetime jump an old 120v light switch would do the trick just fine.
If the other 12v line doesn’t have voltage, you can simply run a jumper to its lead to get the tractor running.
Other stuff to consider---the various safety interlocks (seat, neutral lockout, PTO) are also designed to shut off current flow to the fuel shut off solenoid. So it could be an issue with one of them (bad switch, bad/broken/disconnected connector).
There are 4 relay switches located behind the tractor’s counsel. You can swap the starter and the fuel relay (they are the same) and see if the problem transfers.
I could get a ¼ inch socket with a universal joint on the backside nut you asked about. I did have to remove a block heater first----that was an option, don’t know if you have one. I did this with my 410 loader on.
If you wind up testing resistance on your old solenoid, look at my recent posts, as the shop values appear to be incorrect.
Good luck

 

[millsnhills]

Re: HELP!~ with the 4110 Fuel Solenoid, Thermistor or what SOLVED

I always hate it when people don't come back and tell everyone about if an issue was resolved. And I am guilty Due to travel and time constraints I have not been able or take the time to come back and do so, so here we go.

I knew from the on set that the full shut off solenoid was not working and confirmed it was not getting power. While somewhat mechanically inclined there are two thing I don't feel comfortable with and that is electricity and gas. Thanks for JD755,Joec and AL, they gave me the map to figure this out and while of course with my luck it was the most expensive route. A neighbor who worked in electronics all his life help me trouble shoot all the possibilities back to the control unit under the seat. There is a dealer on ebay who is super good with quality JD Parts and shipping is excellent. I was super nervous once I put the part in place but it was so good to hear that solenoid click when I turned the key I can't explain it.

While I had a good bit of the tractor broken down I have taken the time to sand and repaint most of the tractor and have ordered a replacement hood and other plastic parts which after 12 years has started to crack. So in the end I will have a well serviced and sharp looking tractor again.

Thanks again for all of the help!

Jeff