Help with water supply line

[WM75Guy]

I agree with this and others that said the same thing. Too many people suggesting talking to contractors, etc.

Here are what my water-company charges for tap fees
5/8"-$5000
3/4"-$8300
1" - $12,800
1-1/2" - $23,800
2" - $38,100

Now that is JUST the cost to hook up.

Also need to be concerned with minimum monthly fees. Again, my water company
5/8" -$11
3/4" - $14
1" - $20
1-1/2" - $76
2" - $190

.

Wow . We are on a private water supply corp. When we built our house in 2009 to get a 5/8" meter was $750, 3/4" - $1000, and 1" was $1250. All have a $20 monthly minimum. My house sets 700' from the meter. I used a 1" meter and ran 1 1/2" pipe down the fenceline to my shop. From there I ran 1" to the house and barn. I have plenty of pressure and volume.

With a run that long make sure you put in an outside hydrant somewhere before your house ties in to the supply line. When you lose water pressure you can bleed some of the air and dirt out before it hits the house. Otherwise you will end up blowing toilet fill valves and waiting forever for clean water. Air compresses, water does not. With that much pipe I would hate to see what the air pressure would be at the house when the water supply company loses pressure and then repressurizes the system. Mine can get to 100 psi air pressure in the empty line with a water supply pressure of 60 psi.

The house is separated into two systems with two feeds, one for the bedroom bathrooms at one end and one for the kitchen, laundry, and a bathroom at the other end. Each has it's one hot water heater. If I have an issue I can isolate it and still have a working bathroom and hot water.

 

[Gary Fowler]

You need to ask specific questions.

How much do different meter sizes cost?
What are the minimum charges for said meter size?
Where is the meter to be located? Near the road? Or near the house?

You can bet the water meter is going to be as close to the main supply line as possible since the water company is responsible for everything up to the downstream side of the meter. They will put the meter very close so as not to be responsible for any more pipe than needed.
A 1" meter should be sufficient for your house. I run a sprinkler system off mine with a 1" meter and even with a 10 head zone running, I still have good pressure at the house.
A 1 1/2" supply off the meter should take care of any pressure drop that you may have as long as you start out at the meter with good pressure. Our water system has 100PSI at the meter. I run my outdoor faucets some of which are 500 feet from the meter direct with no pressure reducers and have great flow. We put 40 PSI pressure regulators (a county requirement) at the house and shop entrance to prevent issues with indoor plumbing.

 

[powerscol]

As you have the meter you only need to ask several questions so others and I can help

Size meter and water pressure on main size.
Max flow rate across the meter.
Pressure drop at Max flow rate.
Will it flow 10 gallons per minute?
What is the pressure drop at 10 GPM?
Elevation difference from meter to you house to highest delivery point such as an upstairs bath.
The number and type of bends to get to your house. By bends number of 45 degree and number of 90 degree etc. Long sweeping trench curves are not an issue Any fitting add effective length to the run and can cause additional pressure loss.

Last - what pressure do you want at your house? I would recommend 40 to 60 PSI so you dish washer and cloths washer work properly. This is where you may need a booster pump.

Knowing you have 2000 feet to run, I would recommend a good HDPE water line (probably 2" at this point). Using the HDPE will solve the water hammer issue, but you may still need a bladder tank at the house for that pluming. Be sure it is rated for potable water. If you place the line with some slack in the tench you should not have issue with expansion, contraction and water hammer. Bury debt if you can get it should be 3' to 4' so you don't hit it in the future with a stray fence post, tiller,etc. This material comes in standard OD sized so you can use off the shelf pluming parts and can be purchased in 500' rolls or longer (easy install). I recommend for connecting to use the stainless steel fittings so you never need to worry about corrosion. It can also be hot fused welded so there is no chance of a leak at the joints. Be sure to disinfect during the install - chlorine tabulates work well. THi may be required by your water company or local code.

Hope this helps