Help with wiring a joystick

[grandall4]

I'm modifying my blower to add a power window motor for rotation and an actuator for chute control. I'd like to use this arcade style joystick instead of the traditional dpdt momentary toggles. Does anyone have a simple wiring diagram they can share or a pic of their wiring for a similar joystick?
Thanks
George

 

[chim]

You need more switching than you have there. The switching that takes place must reverse the polarity of the DC power to the motor. The joystick doesn't have enough contacts to do that, and the contacts don't appear to be very robust anyway. It would probably be fine in the role of controlling power relays.

I'm getting ready to wire mine (linear actuator for up/down, and seat motor for right/left). Mine will use two small rocker switches to control 40A automotive relays. The relays will NEVER see 40A, but with the relatively small loads will live a long uneventful life regardless of how many times they are cycled. My sketch was on a scrap piece of paper somewhere in the garage. If someone doesn't beat me to it I'll try to turn the "sketch" into something presentable.

 

[KubotainNH]

As mentioned, you'll need relays. The first link is a basic circuit setup that will work and even lists the connector number for the relays. The ones numbered 30 go to the motor.

The 2nd link gets descriptive on how it works but has extra unneeded switches and runs voltage through the control switch. I like them using ground instead like the first link.

http://www.caraudioforumz.com/attac...iring-diagram-aftermarket-door-locks-trim.jpg
Rob Meyer Productions

 

[grandall4]

Thanks for the input. Doesn't a DPDT toggle wired as shown in this picture eliminate the need for relays by wiring for reverse polarity? If so, can I accomplish the same with the joystick by treating it as 2 DPDT toggles and jumping the wires to Left/Right for the rotation and Up/Down for the actuator?

 

[skyhook]

In that diagram, you can only do one or the other,,
either "left and right" or "up and down".
You would need to add another switching system, also, as stated,,
that switch will not handle the "current" needed to run the chute.
You would need to add "relays" they are made to take a small current and redirect it to a larger one,
"Google" how relays work.

 

[chim]

Uhhh. "Upon further review"..... Let me take back part of what I said in my first reply. You do have enough switching if you don't use relays. I would still use relays for switching the power unless that joystick is rated heavier than it looks. The concern about the contacts is that unless they are pretty beefy and really snap when changing states the closing and opening of them may shorten their life.

For up/down operation as an example, if you fed the UP and DOWN switches so the grounds (12V-) are connected to the NC and 12+ to the NO and motor to COM it would provide the right switching. When the switches are at rest both motor leads will be connected to ground. When the stick pushes the UP and DOWN switches, the motor leads will take turns switching from 12V- to 12V+.

 

[Winmac]

Thanks for the input. Doesn't a DPDT toggle wired as shown in this picture eliminate the need for relays by wiring for reverse polarity? If so, can I accomplish the same with the joystick by treating it as 2 DPDT toggles and jumping the wires to Left/Right for the rotation and Up/Down for the actuator?

In theory it will work as you hope, as mentioned. Current rating of switches is a concern. Also of concern would be timing of the switching ie opening one contact and the closing of the second contact, there could be a point in the transition where the circuit is a dead short.

 

[grandall4]

Chin, thanks for the wiring description. I didn't consider the ability for the switches to handle the current. This joystick (when in 4 way mode) has a sizable "gap" when switching directions. It only activates one switch at a time when in 4 way. Looks like relays are in my future.

Thanks for the input guys!

 

[KubotainNH]

Without relays you'll burn out those switches in short order. Relays are cheap and make the setup robust. You can use cheap speaker wire between the switches and relays then the thicker stuff near the battery to the relays and then to the motor. Do it right and the longest runs are the 2 to the motor.

 

[like2wheel]

I use that same joystick to control my set up. Been working great for a couple seasons now. Wired it up with relays obtained from a junkyard for $1/ea. Chose name brand relays from low use circuits in late model cars.

Use this as a guide:
https://www.google.com/search?q=power+window+switch+wiring&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=899&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=_0E5VLebOoW3yQSTjYCwAQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=zQ54ad93gFjrSM%253A%3ByCtkDu_lpVjnmM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.rx7club.com%252Fattachments%252F2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17%252F332433d1235140180-power-window-relays-pwindow_wiring.gif%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.rx7club.com%252F2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17%252Fpower-window-relays-821299%252F%3B679%3B727

I mounted the joystick in a PVC pipe cap with a pipe adapter to fit tightly in the cup holder. Added a section of bellow from a steering rack around the shaft to seal water/snow out. Relays in a plastic outdoor electrical box, power from the dc outlet, trailer connectors at the actuators makes the whole harness plug & play to remove/install as the season demands.