Gregackley
New member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2018
- Messages
- 4
- Tractor
- Mahindra 4540
I just changed all my filters on my 4540 and even though some are common sense, I struggled with a few. So I値l post a few things I learned, and hopefully it値l save you time.
The bosch fuel filter #1 from the fuel tank : I turned fuel valve off under tank (if you don稚, it will flow out changing this filter). Remove the top center bolt, maybe 14mm. Then the bottom bowl will pop off, remove paper filter and replace. ( I tried for a while thinking the bowl screwed off like a regular filter)
The bosch fuel/water separator : disconnect plug on bottom, unscrew to the left, unscrew the sensor off the bottom of old one and place on the new one. Rub disel on o-ring and screw new filter in place. The is a air bleed valve on both filters. The #1 just below the top bolt there is a 10mm screw that can be loosened. Turn fuel on and prime the system with pump located on filter #2.
Hydraulic filter: tough to get off, it was painted from factory, its will get messy and very slick in a hurry. The new filter made two turns and stopped like it was cross threaded. I found that the filter mount was rubbing the lip ring of the new filter (hence the other filter not coming off easy either) I took a file to shave off the metal so there was clearance for the new one to spin freely.
Next, the in line hydraulic/transmission screen: I found that you will need to loosen the bolts (2 12mm) that comes off the back side of filter mount (behind brake pedals) you値l need a wrench because I couldn稚 get a socket on one) I loosen back but still left attached and backed the front out enough so the pipe would pivot. Next I loosen the hose clamps and slid the hose back on the pipe that was just loosened from filter mount. This will help you maintain the hydraulic oil flow in case you don稚 have anything big enough to catch all the oil. ( 10 gal capacity). I had my bucket raised at the time because I had my hood open. My best estimate, I had 7 to 7.5 gallons of oil come out. Once the flow has stopped, there are two Allen head bolts the hold the filter screen in. It痴 about 10 -12 inches long but slides straight out but you need to swing the pile you loosened on filter mount out of the way to get screen out. I used a brake cleaner to get most of the metal shavings, plastic and paint chips off the screen. I let it dry and put it all back together. The transmission oil stick, located next to shifters is a 1 1/16 bolt, that痴 where I added my Rotella HD back to the fill marks on stick.
Engine oil: two 7/8 drain plugs underneath, filter easy to change even though it痴 limited space to get hands on it. The odd part on this tractor is where you but the oil back in. Just above the filter is a plate with 2 10mm bolts, I removed it and added 2 + gallons until the dip stick showed okay. (It calls for 2.14 gal)
I hope this helps for any of you do it yourselfers. Again, not hard, takes a little time. This is a little different from my last tractor.
The bosch fuel filter #1 from the fuel tank : I turned fuel valve off under tank (if you don稚, it will flow out changing this filter). Remove the top center bolt, maybe 14mm. Then the bottom bowl will pop off, remove paper filter and replace. ( I tried for a while thinking the bowl screwed off like a regular filter)
The bosch fuel/water separator : disconnect plug on bottom, unscrew to the left, unscrew the sensor off the bottom of old one and place on the new one. Rub disel on o-ring and screw new filter in place. The is a air bleed valve on both filters. The #1 just below the top bolt there is a 10mm screw that can be loosened. Turn fuel on and prime the system with pump located on filter #2.
Hydraulic filter: tough to get off, it was painted from factory, its will get messy and very slick in a hurry. The new filter made two turns and stopped like it was cross threaded. I found that the filter mount was rubbing the lip ring of the new filter (hence the other filter not coming off easy either) I took a file to shave off the metal so there was clearance for the new one to spin freely.
Next, the in line hydraulic/transmission screen: I found that you will need to loosen the bolts (2 12mm) that comes off the back side of filter mount (behind brake pedals) you値l need a wrench because I couldn稚 get a socket on one) I loosen back but still left attached and backed the front out enough so the pipe would pivot. Next I loosen the hose clamps and slid the hose back on the pipe that was just loosened from filter mount. This will help you maintain the hydraulic oil flow in case you don稚 have anything big enough to catch all the oil. ( 10 gal capacity). I had my bucket raised at the time because I had my hood open. My best estimate, I had 7 to 7.5 gallons of oil come out. Once the flow has stopped, there are two Allen head bolts the hold the filter screen in. It痴 about 10 -12 inches long but slides straight out but you need to swing the pile you loosened on filter mount out of the way to get screen out. I used a brake cleaner to get most of the metal shavings, plastic and paint chips off the screen. I let it dry and put it all back together. The transmission oil stick, located next to shifters is a 1 1/16 bolt, that痴 where I added my Rotella HD back to the fill marks on stick.
Engine oil: two 7/8 drain plugs underneath, filter easy to change even though it痴 limited space to get hands on it. The odd part on this tractor is where you but the oil back in. Just above the filter is a plate with 2 10mm bolts, I removed it and added 2 + gallons until the dip stick showed okay. (It calls for 2.14 gal)
I hope this helps for any of you do it yourselfers. Again, not hard, takes a little time. This is a little different from my last tractor.
