Mowing hillside mowing techniques

   / hillside mowing techniques #1  

wasabi

Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2002
Messages
713
Location
Cullowhee Mountain, NC
Tractor
PT2445 and PT1850
after years of contracting out our field mowing, i'm about to take delivery of a used PT1850 with 90" single-deck, 3-spindle mower to handle the mowing going forward. First task is to tackle recovery mowing of eight or so acres of steep, slightly overgrown meadow. mostly orchard grass cover base in early spring growth is not bad...but there are also numerous brambles, locust saplings, etc to contend with. goal is to restore and maintain meadows, not create fairways. most saplings are less that 3 inch caliper so my thought is to set deck high, go slow and take a couple of passes at it to knock it down and chip it up. would love to hear any suggested strategies, techniques, safety suggestions...etc?
 
   / hillside mowing techniques #2  
Went online and checked out the PT1850. Awesome hill mowing machine for sure. I doubt very few choices better. Sounds like you have a good plan.The locust saplings are going to be rough on the tires but better to get them when they are this small.
 
   / hillside mowing techniques #3  
My experience is with the 1845 and a 72" deck. I wouldn't use it for any thing much more than 1". Other than that you need to do your best to make sure there are no hidden machine or bone breakers--large rocks, steel cable, large pieces of metal, hidden cave entrances, etc. Brambles (and locust thorns) will give you flat tires--you may want to consider a high quality tire sealant before first use.
 
   / hillside mowing techniques #4  
A three inch sapling will sure rattle the dust off a tractor and rotary cutter. Take your time on the saplings. You can tear the mower up if you try cutting some too big. My rule of thumb is if the tree is so large it raises the deck up going over it that tree is too big to mow.
 
   / hillside mowing techniques #5  
I'm sure the 1850 will handle the slope, so that's a wise move. However, if you really have 3" saplings, I think they will destroy your field mower. It's not designed for that.

I would look at buying a chipper and taking the saplings down and chipping them separately. The rough-cut mower will certainly handle brambles and smaller branches, like shoots, but if you really have 3" diameter little trees, you're going to need a real life chipper, in my opinion. You can usually rent one with a 6" capacity for a couple of hundred bucks a day. I'd take them down with a chain saw and then chip them.

-Rob :)
 
   / hillside mowing techniques
  • Thread Starter
#6  
thanks for the responses. prudent move would be, as suggested, to chainsaw and chip the saplings...and we'll likely do just that....problem is there are eight acres of them....oh well, at least it is a one time project
 
   / hillside mowing techniques #7  
Hi Wasabi,

I agree with your plan. Mow what you can and chainsaw what you can not. With a traditional tractor and a heavy duty brush hog with PTO protection, i could chop up anything that the tractor could push over. 3" would be pushing that limit. The mower on the 1850 is not intended to do things like that. It is a different design - it does not have the extremely large heavy blades working in its favor.

Depending upon the number of trees and the weather/regulations where you are, you could pile them for wildlife or burn them.

Ken
 
   / hillside mowing techniques
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Hey Ken,

Thanks for your insights. As the unit I'm getting is fairly new (less than 400 hours) I'm doubly inclined to not beat it up. On your and other's advice I think I'll hire some young muscle to cut and chip the locust whilst I get seat time...

I've been considering buying a chipper...think I'll rent for this project, but it would be handy to have one. I'll cross my fingers that chipping will break up the thorns...otherwise I may go with the burn pile approach
 
   / hillside mowing techniques #9  
Dear Wasabi,

The PT large brush cutter can handle 3" trees- no problem- but see the related warning about flying debris... :)

If you don't have a brush cutter, you might consider getting someone out with a masticator on a skidsteer as a one time removal. (Assuming that there are safe landing zones at the bottom, and a place to start on the top...)

Or borrow a herd of lamas and goats...

All the best,

Peter
 
   / hillside mowing techniques #10  
Woo Hoo. Another slope mower mower.

I am still working on my 40 acres of slope to sever slope. Last week I finally broke my 30 degree mowing and made it to 45. It was just a 10 foot berm with a road at the bottom but man I was really, really puckered up.

As I do 40 acres here is my ton of notes.

The blades on the PT suck. I hope you ordered spares. What I have done is left the 3/8 steel blades off, and went and had made 1/2" hardened steel blades. I am not sure if I am adding wear to the bearings and the machine is swinging a lot more weight, and balance is much more critical. These blades WILL break off, and go by by. Get spares for whatever you do. change the blade bolts to grade 8. Remove the "cap bolts" These are 2 additional bolts but underneath the mower. PT knows that the machine breaks bolts so they give you extra holes so you can keep working. I put in hex plugs into those holes (I can get you a picture if you need). Spray paint your blades a bright color, it helps when they break off. (only a little paint will remain, but anything helps). carry a hammer. the blades get stuck under the hubs. Absolutely remove the spare bolts from the center hub. It is the one that is direct drive and the most prone to breaking bolts.

Remember that the 1850 is 65 HP and 4000lbs. When you hit something imovable(for me it is hidden tree stumps) you will know it. This week I replaced the upper bar with thicker square tubing as I had bent mine up pretty bad.

The mower is low maintenance. On mine there is 3 lube points on the spindles. I destroyed a rear tire, don't know how and have yet to buy a proper replacement.

One trick I do and this is your call is that there are stop bolts on my swing arm (keep the arm from over correctiing). If you look close you can undo the stop bolts, and line up the holes on the swing arm and lock off the mower deck (this will make more sense when you get it the mower, but I can send you pix if you want). What I do is I lock off the mower and then I am able to raise it up and get it over top of stubborn plants and and also use it to mow steep walls (we have a 60 degree cut bank that I park on the road and press the mower up to it).

Mowing a slope is scary stuff. Really. The seat on the 1850 takes some HUGE getting used to. I am VERY tempted to do Kens upgrade as my kidneys can't take much more of this.

When I first mow a slope I am unsure about the angle on, I go up and down. or at the worst 45 degrees to the angle of the slope (across the slope yet heading down). Once you begin to realize that it is pretty impossible to tip the 1850 you will get more secure on cross mowing.

To get the most traction out of the PT you need to reduce the air pressure in the tires. Like down to 8 to 12 lbs. Ken can give you more info. Frankly I don't do that agressive of a slope (45 degrees) very often, and when you reduce the air you get all sorts of other issues, so I run at about 15lbs or so (I also have tubes).

One thing is that the 1850 slides. you have to get used to this when mowing sideways on a steep slope, You kinda point the nose uphill, but the back of the chasis pushes you straight across.

Mowing on wet grass when it is super steep is pretty dicey. Even when dry the cut grass will create moisture and it will get slippery.

Ken and I have lots of maintenance tips for the rest of the machine, but this should get you started.

Oh, Funnest thing every... Get out on your steep meadow, and start doing figure 8's on the hillside. That is how I figured out how powerful this machine is.

PS. You owe us some serious pictures of what you are dealing with.

Carl
 

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