Here is a pic of one I put up about a year ago. I put up 2 similar to it at the other place.
I made a approx. 14' jib out of heavy wall 2" X 4" rectangular tubing to fit on my loader tractor. (IH 656) A cross piece at the base, with eyelets out of the same tubing, welded to the 14' stick of tubing. It slips over the tines next to the center one. These are the old heavy flat 1/2" X3" or so tapered, tempered tines. Out at the far end, about 4' back I welded a smaller cross piece with eyes large enough to accept the hooks in a couple heavy ratchet straps, and one nub sticking up, made out of 3/8" X 2" with an eye to accept a screw shackle. This piece I ran clear through, and welded top & bottom.
I run a chain out from a hook centered on the bucket, and attach with the shackle, for the pennant line. I run a ratchet strap from each corner of the bucket, to the small cross piece to steady it sideways. I hook the chain just short enough to carry the jib.
As far as the pipe. It was pretty well as you see it in the picture, except the flue pipe through the wall. I made a mounting plate, approx. 14" square for the bottom, with 4 bolt holes. I also cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to match the mounting plate, w/holes. I used 4, 15" galvenized bolts from the electric company, and bolted to the plate and plywood, nuts on each side with about 1" sticking through the top of the steel plate. That gave me plenty of threads to guide it, and plenty of threads to hold it. Plywood goes on the bottom side. I then poured a base approx. 36" deep, and 24" square. After pouring the concrete, I pushed the plate/plywood/bolts down into the concrete, tapping with a small 3-4 lb sledge to make a nice flat surface. A small torpedo level was used to make sure it was level.
The next day I marked the plate as to reference to how it set on the base, and removed to weld it to the pipe. Did some measuring, and remeasured as to where the flue pipe came through the wall, on center, allowing some rise in the flue pipe, then cut the flue pipe hole in the pipe. Cut the T for on top, and welded on a lifting eye.
I waited a week to let the concrete cure, then set the pipe. I had the flue pipe hole cut through the wall, when I set the pipe. It was dead nut on, so all I had to do was put the thimble through the wall, then slide the flue pipe through, and weld in place.
I made some braces out of 3/16" X 2", and lagged into a perlin. Then brought them to the pipe, clamped, and welded them.
I did this all by myself. Maybe not the smartest thing in the world, but always have the mindset anything can break, and always have a route of escape planned, whether it is the correct way or not. I'd much rather do that, than have a helper looking at something else, if things go wrong, and in the way, and both get hurt..., LOL...
I can tell you that the threaded pipe sleeve/collar at the front of the trailer make a great piece for the flue pipe through the wall to put the stove pipe into. A little grinding of the threads, and you stove pipe will slide right in. I drilled mine in 3 spots allowing room for 1" long self drilling screws to drill through the stove pipe, to hold the pipe in the collar.
