i just built a 3 pt disc as it sits now i have 1075lbs. at 54 lbs. per disc is that to light? i have a pretty hard sun baked crust on the dirt here. i have a chunk of railroad track i could put on it i figure it would make it 75lbs. per blade is that too much on a blade?
home made disc
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MtnViewRanch
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You will be a lot happier with the results at 75lbs per blade. But then you don't want to be so heavy that your tractor won't pull or lift it either. Post some pictures when you can. :thumbsup: As far as to much weight on the blades, sort of depends on how thick the blades are. They make several different thicknesses.
most of the blades are the 20 inch ones from that towner? one i picked up. as far as lifting it i think the tractor can lift 3500 something at the 3pt balls or so...here are a few pics of it being weighed. Don't look at the welds I've been practicing with the stick.. trying different #'s 7018 6011 6013.. the next thing is to take off the temp 3pt brace and make the one permanent one
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MtnViewRanch
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Looks good and sounds like the weight is not a problem for you. Should work well for you. Get us some action shots, I'm curious on how deep it will cut on the each pass.
Gary Fowler
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I have this 8 foot widethat I pull with my Yanmar 4220 (45 Hp) which should be comparable to your 1547 in HP. It has to be in 4WD to pull it . I think the manufacturers spec says that it weighs 850 out the door, but as you can see it has 2 large pieces of railroad track welded on it. My rear tires practically floated on the ground when I lifted this thing off the trailer. IT still doesnt cut more than a couple inches on the first pass in my hard rocky ground in Arkansas but then that ground resemble concrete as it has so many rocks in it. Even so, it does a decent job with multiple passes. Heck a PHD needs weight on it to penetrate the first 6-8 inches in my soil.
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kebo
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My honest opinion (and I'm not a ME) that adjustment design doesn't look beefy enough to stand up to the loads/stresses it will see. Not saying it won't work, cause I'm sure it will work. I just think you will be repairing broken welds and maybe fixing other problems with it.
The reason I say this is because we have a 500lb Leinbach disc at the hunt club and we just got a broken weld fixed on it a couple weeks ago. The weld broke right where the center frame tube welds to the rear frame tube (that runs side to side). In other words, it broke right underneath where you will be turning the handle on yours to adjust the angle of the rear gangs.
Admittedly, the Leinbach is a slightly different design, the center tube went underneath the rear tube, your center tube simply butts up flush to the rear tube. I would at least weld a brace underneath that joint because there was enough up & down stress movement to break the weld and crack some of the center tube. We had ours welded back, and then welded on an extra piece of heavy gauge angle iron to brace it so it *shouldn't* happen again.
The guy who welded it for us said he had seen some other discs that had that very same weld to break. For some reason, and I don't quite understand the geometry of it, that point of the frame (and the weld) endures a lot of stress. I think it has to do with the longitudinal (up & down) flexing of the rear gangs, from end to end. I think this causes the middle (in between the rear gangs) to want to flex in the opposite direction of the ends because that pivot point (to adjust the gangs) is not really a fixed, or solid pivot point. Usually the rear gangs are set just a bit wider than the front gangs, so that might explain why this failure shows up more on the rear set, and not so much on the front set. Considering your disc weighs 1000lbs, it may show up any weak spots fairly quick.
Other than that, I say you did a great job on it!!
The reason I say this is because we have a 500lb Leinbach disc at the hunt club and we just got a broken weld fixed on it a couple weeks ago. The weld broke right where the center frame tube welds to the rear frame tube (that runs side to side). In other words, it broke right underneath where you will be turning the handle on yours to adjust the angle of the rear gangs.
Admittedly, the Leinbach is a slightly different design, the center tube went underneath the rear tube, your center tube simply butts up flush to the rear tube. I would at least weld a brace underneath that joint because there was enough up & down stress movement to break the weld and crack some of the center tube. We had ours welded back, and then welded on an extra piece of heavy gauge angle iron to brace it so it *shouldn't* happen again.
The guy who welded it for us said he had seen some other discs that had that very same weld to break. For some reason, and I don't quite understand the geometry of it, that point of the frame (and the weld) endures a lot of stress. I think it has to do with the longitudinal (up & down) flexing of the rear gangs, from end to end. I think this causes the middle (in between the rear gangs) to want to flex in the opposite direction of the ends because that pivot point (to adjust the gangs) is not really a fixed, or solid pivot point. Usually the rear gangs are set just a bit wider than the front gangs, so that might explain why this failure shows up more on the rear set, and not so much on the front set. Considering your disc weighs 1000lbs, it may show up any weak spots fairly quick.
Other than that, I say you did a great job on it!!
thanks for the heads up ill be keeping an eye out for bends and breaks. i thought about bracing the crap out of it but wanted to see how it works first.. the thing i think is going to fail first is the bearing hangers 6 inch by 3/8ths bent (in the log splitter) to form them. they move a lot. any other comments are greatly encouraged, that is how I learn best. jon
