Homemade Box Blade

[sandman2234]

Since I tore the 1/2" by 3" flatbar on my boxblade where the 3pt hooks up, I would agree with everyone that you should increase the thickness of that part at the very least. That part takes all the abuse when the boxblade hits something and the tractor doesn't stop. If you don't have a piece of 1/2" x 3 flatbar, then at least weld two 1/4" flatbars together to add some strength to that point. Can you extend the short side of the 3pt hitch further back over the top of the 2" square without it being in the way? That would help with the twisting effect that allows them to break.
I would condsider using flatbar in exchance for the center 2x2x1/4" angle unless you have a reason for it. It appears to be a brace to keep the rear from pulling or bowing but when you pile dirt up, it will be one more place to have to clean it off of when your done. Flatbar won't allow quite so much dirt to pile up on top of it, and should have about the same tensile strength.
David from jax

 

[3RRL]

I have not seen a side view yet, so one other suggestion about your 3pt hitch mount is to be sure to run 2 stabilizer thick bars (flat stock one on each side) from near the top link attachment angling down to the back of the boxblade. It should attach to rear about the same width as the lift pins are apart. That will take care of what David was trying to do (If I understood his post correctly). This is very important to keep the 3pt mount from collapsing, especially while pushing in reverse.

 

[john_bud]

Yes, go to 1/2 plate for the ends. Or double up the 1/4. Also the scarifier bar on HD units is NOT tube. It's 3/8" angle that is sloted for the scarifiers then welded. The thrust surface is re-enforced with a 3/8 rod. The 3pt mounts are 3/4" with some having straps going to the back wall.

Also, the side plates are angled on the bottom some, giving a natural rake to the blade for smoother cutting action.

A REAL SLICK thing is to make the scar bar pivot up out of the way. I'll snap some of mine that does this. It's real handy being able to pull a lever and have scarifiers or pull a lever suddenly not have them. Hydraulic actuation is even better $$$$, but too much $$$$ for me. I do flip the scar bar up and down a lot. Typically, cut the ground up with the scarifiers, then flip them up and drag /smooth /move dirt. When the hard pan is hit, back down go the scars. Slick.

jb

Here's the link to a bunch of pics with tape measure of a gannon box with manually lowerable Scarifier bar.

john_bud/gannon box - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[ovrszd]

Sorry I didn't get back to you guys sooner, been extremely busy. All great suggestions. Especially upsizing the material. I was considering 1/4" because I already have it all. But that's no reason to build something that won't last. I also agree with bracing the top part of the 3pt, definitely need to add that.

Now I gotta give this some more thought. If I have to purchase 1/2" material I can certainly buy cheaper than build. But as 3RRL stated, there's a lot of satisfaction in building myself. Even if I buy, I still want to fabricate a hydraulic lift mechanism something similar to what I had drawn. A short cylinder standing on the main cross beam, under the 2" cross beam that would have tabs attaching it to the hole type scarifiers?

Hmmm, now I gotta shop for a used heavy duty box blade. Thanks everyone!!!