Honda RV generator, need repair help

[skidsteer.ca]

Any Rv ers or anyone familar with Honda 6010 RV generator?
Unit has an electric choke that stays on far to long when started in cooler weather, say 40 degrees far. it takes 2 to 3 minutes to shut off. As a result fuel is getting into the engine oil, raising the level and causing it to be sucked up into the air cleaner.
Does anyone know a good rv shop that works on Honda Gens, that might be willing to offer some service advice in exchange for selling the parts? Or where a service manual could be purchased?

Unit runs good once choke finally releases. I hate to pack the unit up and ship it out. It powers our constuction trailer which is over legal width, so taking it to a rv center is not a easy option either. Looked a coupler dealers up online but not much help, just bring it in....

Thanks
Ken

 

[Soundguy]

No help with the automated system, unless it is a sticky cable.. etc.. but you could always, as a temp fix, disconnect the electric choke, and install a generic manual choke pull cable mounted next to it..

soundguy

 

[RonMar]

Well last I recall, electric chokes in general apply voltage to a heat element in the choke module which progressively expands/uncoils a bi-metalic spring(like in a mechanical temp gauge) which opens the choke butterfly on the carb. The heat in the engine compartment/carb determines the starting point of the choke butterfly so if the engine is already warm, the choke butterfly is open providing no or only partial choke.

If this wire to the heating element isn't getting voltage, or the heater element has failed, the bi-metalic coil has to wait for the engine heat to get thru the carb to open the choke butterfly using engine heat. This takes longer than choke is typically required, and may not fully open the choke butterfly. This sounds like part of your symptom.

I would first check for proper electrical and ground connections on the choke module and the engine block. Then I would look to see if you are getting a good solid +12VDC on that choke power wire at the choke module on the carb, as measured to the engine case/ground when you command an engine start. This voltage must always be present at the choke module while the engine is running to insure the choke butterfly stays fully open.

If you have a good 12V at the choke module, then the choke heater in the module is most likley bad and the module will have to be replaced. Or the choke butterfly linkage or bi-metalic coil is sticking preventing full butterfly opening. If you don't have 12V there, you need to look to the source of the 12V and fix that problem. If there is a remote Start/Run panel or switch, this voltage is most likley controlled by the remote switch, or a relay controlled by the remote switch. This 12V must be present at the choke module whenever the engine is told to run...

Getting enough fuel past the rings from a stuck choke would take a LOT of engine running time. You may have another issue, such as a stuck float or leaking float needle that is alowing fuel to leak down the carb and into the engine/sump when the engine is not running. I would think this more likley than being caused by a partially closed choke.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Honda had the manuals online for $40 so I ordered one, it would cost more then that just to pull the unit out and replace as the exhaust, wiring and unit itself must be unhooked.
I guess when it come hopefully I'll learn something. The unit is remote start so a cable is not the easiest option, but could be made to work. It works not to bad in 60 to 70 degree weather, but when it gets cold the unit fires right up then stumbles away in a cloud of black smoke.
Thanks
Ken