3-Point Hitch Hooking up tiller

[Oil Boiler]

I recently broke down and purchased a new BX2660 with FEL mid mount belly mower and a 4 ft bushhog brand tiller. I could not be happier with all of this but I am having one small problem that really test my patience. It takes me a while to attach the tiller. I always have to move back, then forward, then back again and up and down ect..... I have never owned anything like this and was wondering if you guys might have some tricks up your sleeves that you could extend to a rookie! But man, once shes on there it is sweeeeeeeeeeeet!

 

[Popster]

Stick the bucket into the ground and use the bucket to move the tractor back and forth to line up the tiller. Attach the left side first, then use the leveling crank to match the right side to the tiller.

 

[ackerrj]

I recently broke down and purchased a new BX2660 with FEL mid mount belly mower and a 4 ft bushhog brand tiller. I could not be happier with all of this but I am having one small problem that really test my patience. It takes me a while to attach the tiller. I always have to move back, then forward, then back again and up and down ect..... I have never owned anything like this and was wondering if you guys might have some tricks up your sleeves that you could extend to a rookie! But man, once shes on there it is sweeeeeeeeeeeet!

I have had the same issue w/ 400lb rotary mower... Seems like I am spending more time attaching than mowing.

My solution is to place the mower on top of some scrap 2 x 4's rather than laying directly on the ground. I get the tractor as close as I can, place one link over a pin, then can slide the mower by hand ( or gently w the tractor) until the other pin will fit. Sometimes I have to adjust the width of the link to get it to work. Top link is usually no problem.

One thing to remember when your done, and disconnecting... Don't forget to disconnect the pto shaft. Stupid tractor tricks is backing into your garage spun around in your seat, making sure you clear the door and discovering half the pto shaft from the implement hanging off the back of the tractor... But I have never (yet) hit the door frame with the RPS <g!!!>.

Be well, and enjoy your tractor!

 

[AMR]

If you are keeping your stuff in the garage or on a paved area putting it on dollies helps. I have my BH, tiller, rotary cutter, fertilizer spreader and core aerator all on dollies. It makes it easy moving it around to organize it in the garage and it makes hooking this stuff up a snap, particularly the BH.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

If you are keeping your stuff in the garage or on a paved area putting it on dollies helps. I have my BH, tiller, rotary cutter, fertilizer spreader and core aerator all on dollies. It makes it easy moving it around to organize it in the garage and it makes hooking this stuff up a snap, particularly the BH.

This is the best solution if you have paved area.
Next solution is Quick Hitches like in pictures. QH's bring their own problem of extending the implement which usually isn't a problem if the implement doesn't have a drive shaft. Even without a drive shaft some times there is still the problem of needing a longer upper arm which are fairly cheap at some place like Tractor Supply ($25).
If the implement has a drive shaft then the QH may make the drive shaft to short to work. I have three different type QHs. Pats was the strongest and most expensive and I've sold mine. The other two types I bought off ebay for under $100. One extends back like Pats and the other lets the implement sit on top of the QH or under it which brings it closer to the tractor. I prefer the QH that lets the implement sit on top of the arm or under the arm but.......I recently had a problem with my tiller breaking a retaining ring which of its self isn't that big of a problem but shows me that there is a lot of slack using my QH under the arm by letting the tiller do a lot of moving back and forth on the arm at the attachment point. Thinking I'm not going to use my lower/upper QHs for my tiller any more.