How big do I NEED?

[BAGTIC]

I have 82 acres slightly hilly land but nowhere I can't go in a 1970 GMC 3/4 ton with auto transmission if I am patient. 75 acres are pasture the rest buildings, ponds, landscaping and a small 1.5 acre orchard.

I need a tractor primarily for pasture maintenance (brushhogging, seeding, fertilizing, spraying) and general cleanup. I am hoping to add another 80 acres in the future, 60 acres pasture, 20 acres woodlot but IT IS NOT CERTAIN.

Traction is not my main concern as there will not be any heavy traction tasks. Having a GOOD versatile hydraulic system for powering implements and attachments is more important than pulling power. Instead, I am looking at it as a versatile tool carrier.

When I was young I drove a Caterpillar D7 crawler on a large row crop operation and, also, a 100 +/- hp wheel tractor but that was 40+ years ago. Regretably, I am no longer so young or so spry. I have arthritis and rather bad knees , etc. and would want a tractor that does not involve clutching.

I really am not up to date on all the different kinds of modern tractor transmissions. The fact that every manufacturer uses a different name for what seems to be equivalent designs only makes things more confusing. Which ones do not require clutching?

This will be my LAST tractor. How big a tractor do I REALLY need? Some people tell me 50-55 pto hp is enough. Others say AT LEAST 75 pto hp, up to 100 hp.

 

[JoeinTX]

For the potential amount of land invovled, including the possible addition, something in the 50-60hp regime is plenty. It can pull a 10-12' shredder in most conditions and do most anything otherwise you seem to need. 70hp+ would seem a little big and unecessary to me.

As you say, with no serious ground engaging tasks, then a hydrostatic tranny is fully in play for you. Great at cutting and PTO tasks, not so good at delivering power to the rear wheels for pulling, but runs with limited driver input and action via the forward/reverse pedals.

But, especially in price comes into play, modern powershift trannies are still in your strike zone. Still a mechanically geared transmission that can deliver near full engine output to the drive wheels but possessing shift-on-the-go and/or shuttle-shift features that leave clutching out of the picture.

Personally, I would aim at a 50-60hp powershift rig for the tasks you mention.....still easier to operate than older tractors and yet cheaper to buy than today's equivalent hydro tractors. With this, if you should happen to run into a task that requires umph, you've still got it, but you've also got the easier conveniences that it has. You could get a hydro model in the same HP range and it would be easier to operate, but lack a little something if it came time to apply max hp to a job. I would not be afraid to compare a 55hp powershift tractor to a 70hp hydro tractor when it comes time to put the rubber to the ground.

So, hydro is pure convenience and more money but less efficient..........powershift is a little more effort but still very versatile and less money while putting more grit to the mat.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I farmed anywhere from 190 acres, to a maximum of 235 acres (rented some land at one point) for 35+ years with 60HP as my biggest tractor for the lions share of the time. At one point, when I was renting ground, I had a 110 HP MFWD cab tractor, but found that a little overkill at times. At any stage of the game, I had 3 or 4 tractors, sometimes quite a few more than that. Several tractors came and went as I'd buy them used, fix them up, use them a while and re-sell. Some of them were 75 to 100 HP units.

Here's what I'd want if I was starting over. (based on what worked well for me)

First, I'd want TWO tractors (minimum) . One would be a smaller (relative to the largest one) utility, somewhere in the 35 to 45 hp range. Maybe an older one. But in short, a "plan B". But for the main tractor on a piece of ground your size, and with the possibility of adding more ground, I'd want something for the BIG TRACTOR in the 75 to 90 HP range. (Something that would easily handle a 15' batwing.) 90 HP is nearing a break point on implements in a certain size (and price range) Power up beyond that, and you'll need equipment that's harder to find cheap and/or used in good condition. The option of a second "smaller" tractor will allow some implements of CAT I spec, saving a LOT of money over the long haul. In any event, I wouldn't go smaller than 75 HP for the BIG tractor (unless you rule out the additional acreage)

For years, my father tended to 160 acres with his biggest tractor only being 50 HP. It can be done, just plan on a few VERY long days here and there.

 

[MarkV]

Given the knee problems the hydrostatic transmission would certainly be the easiest to use. Push the peddle forward; you go forward, push it back and you go back. Tractors with the hydrostatic (HST) trannies are limited to about 50 hp and do lose some PTO horse power compared to a gear tranny.

From the projects mentioned a 50 hp cab tractor with a HST tranny would seem ideal with the possible exception of bush hogging. Are you saying that you bush hog the entire 75 acres of pasture and that could increase to 135 acres of bush hogging? If that is the case then I would agree with FWJunk and get into the 75 hp range with the biggest mower I could find. That is a lot of mowing. Also the idea of two tractors would sure work well for you. A used bigger cab tractor for the batwing mower to stay on and something in the 40 hp range with HST for all the other work.

MarkV

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Given the knee problems the hydrostatic transmission would certainly be the easiest to use. Push the peddle forward; you go forward, push it back and you go back. Tractors with the hydrostatic (HST) trannies are limited to about 50 hp and do lose some PTO horse power compared to a gear tranny.

From the projects mentioned a 50 hp cab tractor with a HST tranny would seem ideal with the possible exception of bush hogging. Are you saying that you bush hog the entire 75 acres of pasture and that could increase to 135 acres of bush hogging? If that is the case then I would agree with FWJunk and get into the 75 hp range with the biggest mower I could find. That is a lot of mowing. Also the idea of two tractors would sure work well for you. A used bigger cab tractor for the batwing mower to stay on and something in the 40 hp range with HST for all the other work.

MarkV

Good thinking! I never considered a new smaller tractor and a used larger one, but that does make perfect sense. Get a 35 to 45 hp hydro with a cab for a chore tractor and a nice used 80 to 90 (or bigger) model just for bush hogging. That way the only high horsepower IMPLEMENT would be the batwing.

 

[flusher]

I have 82 acres slightly hilly land but nowhere I can't go in a 1970 GMC 3/4 ton with auto transmission if I am patient. 75 acres are pasture the rest buildings, ponds, landscaping and a small 1.5 acre orchard.

I need a tractor primarily for pasture maintenance (brushhogging, seeding, fertilizing, spraying) and general cleanup. I am hoping to add another 80 acres in the future, 60 acres pasture, 20 acres woodlot but IT IS NOT CERTAIN.

Traction is not my main concern as there will not be any heavy traction tasks. Having a GOOD versatile hydraulic system for powering implements and attachments is more important than pulling power. Instead, I am looking at it as a versatile tool carrier.

When I was young I drove a Caterpillar D7 crawler on a large row crop operation and, also, a 100 +/- hp wheel tractor but that was 40+ years ago. Regretably, I am no longer so young or so spry. I have arthritis and rather bad knees , etc. and would want a tractor that does not involve clutching.

I really am not up to date on all the different kinds of modern tractor transmissions. The fact that every manufacturer uses a different name for what seems to be equivalent designs only makes things more confusing. Which ones do not require clutching?

This will be my LAST tractor. How big a tractor do I REALLY need? Some people tell me 50-55 pto hp is enough. Others say AT LEAST 75 pto hp, up to 100 hp.

For the jobs you mentioned there doesn't appear to be a lot of gear shifting required, except for hooking up implements. HST's are nice if you're doing a lot of forward/reverse work, e.g. moving material with an FEL.

Seems to me that a nice gear tractor with a synchronized transmission would not be too much of a strain on the knees and legs. You can find plenty of choices, new and used, in the 50-100 hp range.

It's hard to give you specific advice since you didn't specify your max price limit. If I had that much land I would shoot for 70-80hp (engine). Examples of used tractors: JD: 4020, 2640. Case: 930, 940. IH Farmall: 656, 706. All of these are 1965-80 vintage and can be had for $10,000 or less.

 

[3RRL]

Another way to look at it with all the cutting you have to do is first get an older used tractor that will do the mowing pulling the biggest mower it can. Maybe 75 to 90hp and maybe 2 wd. Then see what chores there are for a much smaller CUT hydro at a later date? Perhaps you'll find limited use for the CUT (maybe not) and realize you can get a way with a much smaller and affordable new small CUT. Then the two tractors would fall somewhere in the price range of one new 50 or 60 hp tractor?

 

[texasjohn]

I've got 200+ acres.... I'm extremely happy with what I have... see my signature... I'd recommend the same size tractor, features, and implements that you need...I consider 4wd, hydrostatic transmission, cab, skid steer FEL and bucket with chain hooks and 3ph carry-all all mandatory.

 

[gabby]

Two tractors is a good idea because you won't have to switch implements as often, which will help save your knees.

Go for HP and size. CUT's beat you to death on rough ground. Bigger tractors ride better. Bigger tractors cost less per hp. There are very few things a CUT will do that you can't do with a bigger tractor.

Make sure you get remote hydraulics so you can run a top'n tilt and other hydraulic stuff.

 

[Soundguy]

That's alotta land.

If I could only buy 1 tractor.. it's be a 70 or so hp unit in the utlity range.

More preferably.. get a big and old ag tractor cheap.. and then get a CUT... have 2 tractor for about the same money of the utility.. but have more flexibility.

Soundguy