How do I add lights to my GC2310?

[Cucch]

Hi All,

I want to add some extra lighting for winter plowing on my GC2310. Does anyone know where I can hook that in? Do I use a seperate switch and inline
fuse?

Any help is appreciated. I think I'm going to put them on the roll over bar near the flashing lights.

Thanks all,
Greg

 

[jeepcj7]

Use a fused wire (or run a wire from the battery with an inline fuse in it), a new switch and a relay. There are lots of sites on the web for hooking up aux lights (particularly offroading sites). The princiblal is the same weather it for a truck, boat or tracotr.

 

[loulblades]

I just put some lights on my GC2300. I used a piece of angle alum. and had it anodized (I suggest using a channel but it makes the wiring a little more difficult). I attached it to the ROPS up high with trailer clamps (U clamps used on a trailer tongue for attaching stuff), they fit perfectly. I dipped the ends of the clamps in plastic coating for tools (get at Home Depot) and put rubber between the the angle and the ROPS. The plastic and rubber will keep the bar from sliding down the ROPS and dampen vibration.

I mounted 2 lights facing rear (inside the ROPS) for work lights and mounted 2 lights facing forward (outside the ROPS) for when I use the FEL and snowblower. The lights are white but fog pattern.

For the work light wiring I connected to the aux electrical circuit (a connector is under the seat and is fused at 20 amps). I mounted a waterproof switch in the middle of the bar to control them.

For the add on headlights, I tapped into one of the taillights. They currently come on when the headlights are on but I am adding another switch in line so I can control them.

If you buy the light kit from Wal Mart or Pep Boys, they will come with in-line fuses.

Also I know I have to be careful not to hit anything and tear up the aux headlights and if I roll the tractor over they will get smashed but I figure I will have bigger issues at that point .

Have fun.

 

[Cucch]

Hi all,

Thanks for the great ideas and ways to hook up the lights.

Looks like I'm heading to Wal-Mart or the local Auto Parts store to see what I can find. I hope it goes easier than I think...

Did you use 55W halogen lights?

Thanks again,
Cucch

 

[loulblades]

Did you use 55W halogen lights?

Yes. I think for the worklights it is really overkill (But my wife tells me I get carried away sometimes). I will prob. put in a lower wattage bulb when these burn out.

Make sure you use a diffused pattern (fog) for the headlights though, unless you want to light up the neighbors yard while you're having fun (I mean...working) on that tractor.

One other thing, if you buy the kit and tap into the wire under the seat, make sure to put those inline fuses to work. The wiring that came with the kit I bought won't handle 20 amps and I don't think you want smoke (or fire) if a short occurs.

 

[LBrown59]

Hi All,

I want to add some extra lighting for winter plowing on my GC2310. Does anyone know where I can hook that in? Do I use a seperate switch and inline
fuse?

Any help is appreciated. I think I'm going to put them on the roll over bar near the flashing lights.

Thanks all,
Greg

Re: Lites on youe tractor
----------------------------------------------
*************
Here are some thoughts I've been kicking around concerning lights on rops.
1. Use two lights rather than 4 lights. Mount them on a light bar that will swivel the lights up and down. I install the lights on the bar in a manner that will permit the lights to be rotated 360 degrees. The 360 degrees allows you to have light to the rear and front or both to the front or both to the rear.
Use magnets to mount the brackets for the light bar to the top rear edge of the rops instead of on top of the rops or under the top of the rops. Next bolt the ends of the light bar to the brackets with one bolt through each bracket into the bar.
Tighten the bolts just enough to hold the bar in place but loose enough to move it by hand. The swiveling light bar allows:
(A) Allows adjustment of the distance the lights shine out from the tractor.
(B) Gives more clearance above the lights and more head room under them.
(C) Lessens the chance of catching the lights on something overhead.
(D) Allows the lights to flip down if hit rather than breaking them.
(E) You can just flip the lights down to work under low hanging branches instead of having to remove them from the rops. However you still have the option of removing the bar and lights and unplugging the trailer connector.
*Advantages of the 360 degree rotation *
(A) Permits two lights instead of requiring 4 lights, thus reducing current flow.
(B) Lights can be turned both to front or both to rear. Or they can be turned one to front and one to rear. They can also be used for side lighting. Swiveling lights can provide illumination 360 degrees around the tractor.
Adjustment from one position to another is instant by hand. No wrenches or tools required.
A low profile light preferred over high profile lights.
I've been using this system of combining a rotating light bar with swivel mounted lights to install fog and driving lights on my pickups successfully for years.
More thoughts on lights.
Use a dual direction light with a clear lens on both sides that will cast light to the front and rear at the same time.
Thinking about experimenting with a hanging swing light magnetically attached to the cross member of the FEL to illuminate the bucket shadow when using the head lights.
L.B.
I would not disconnect the head lights but would run the extra lights connected to the key on side of the ignition switch and a separate switch in the line between the connection and the lights. You could also use a switch for / on each light if you desire to control each lite separately.
The reason I prefer going through the key switch is because you can't forget to turn the lights off and run the battery down.
I use a 10 AMP Fuse.
>>> >>> >>>> >>>>

 

[Cucch]

Well, I got my lights hooked up and discovered something you may want to
know. On the GC2300/2310 there is already a power line that is in the
rear over the 3 point hitch. You'll see a red and black striped wire that was
put there from the factory for extra work lights. It already has a 20 amp fuse
connected to it.

I found it by accident. As I started to wire my lights I saw this wire with a
female plug just hanging out of the black coiled covering on the wire harness
over the 3 point hitch.

I then looked in the owners manual at the wiring diagram which told me this
was a spare power supply for work lights. I think it was #21 or so in the diagram. It goes on when the key is on.

This was good but you cannot turn the lights off when you want because
the power is always on when the key is on. So I found the wire up by the
battery and tapped a toggle switch into it. It killed me to drill the hole in the
dash for the switch, but it sure is handy.

All works well... I want to add a 3rd light for the rear and then I'll be all set.

So, look for that wire if you need power...it saved me a lot of time but tapping into the wire up front for the switch was no picnic...

Can't wait for the 1st snow to try these babies out...yes I can.

That's all for now,
Cucch

 

[plowking]

Thanks for the info. I have the backhoe on mine,bit I think it should be in same spot. plowking

 

[LBrown59]

Well, I got my lights hooked up and discovered something you may want to
know. On the GC2300/2310 there is already a power line that is in the
rear over the 3 point hitch. You'll see a red and black striped wire that was
put there from the factory for extra work lights. It already has a 20 amp fuse
connected to it.

I found it by accident. As I started to wire my lights I saw this wire with a
female plug just hanging out of the black coiled covering on the wire harness
over the 3 point hitch.

I then looked in the owners manual at the wiring diagram which told me this
was a spare power supply for work lights. I think it was #21 or so in the diagram. It goes on when the key is on.

This was good but you cannot turn the lights off when you want because
the power is always on when the key is on.
I found the wire up by the
battery and tapped a toggle switch into it. It killed me to drill the hole in the
dash for the switch,
All works well... I want to add a 3rd light for the rear and then I'll be all set.

So, look for that wire if you need power...it saved me a lot of time but tapping into the wire up front for the switch was no picnic...

Can't wait for the 1st snow to try these babies out...yes I can.

That's all for now,
Cucch

You could have avoided that by tying the switch into the wire between the lights and the female plug.

 

[loulblades]

On the GC2300/2310 there is already a power line that is in the
rear over the 3 point hitch. You'll see a red and black striped wire that was
put there from the factory for extra work lights...

That is the wire I mentioned earlier as being under the seat.