I've had luck in the past by coating rusty parts with 'naval jelly', available at most automotive centers. Try coating the pin and letting it sit for a day or so. I do a lot of work on old cars and this stuff has saved the day more than once.
Massive layers of rust should be scraped, wire-brushed, wire-wheeled, sanded or rubbed with steel wool, depending on the density of the rust. Then, Naval Jelly should be used.
I prefer a wire wheel attached to an electric drill. With this technique, the drill does most of the hard work. I then use the naval jelly to remove the really fine layer of rust left behind by the wire wheel.
Naval Jelly is nothing more than phosphoric acid (usually found in a gelatinlike form). Phosphoric acid makes easy work of lighter layers of rust but does not work well on heavy build-ups. Naval Jelly also is available in spray form. Whether spray or jelly, you don't want to get it on your skin or in your eyes. Rubber gloves and eye protection are probably in order here but the stuff is easy enough to work with and I have to admit that I rarely use these safety precautions myself.
Once the Naval Jelly has done its job, the cleaned surface can be washed with a paste of baking soda (this acts as a neutralizer), which, in turn, can be rinsed with water. Quick, thorough drying is a must. Raw, wet steel will begin to rust again in minutes.
I've had more limited sucess with penetrating oils. They'll brake down a certain amount of rust, but are generally not considered to be good rust removers.
....Tony
...Tony