I once moved an 8 x 10 shed with a cement tile roof (well braced on the interior) with a borrowed pallet jack. The pallet jack allowed some fairly trick maneuvers to place the shed exactly where I wanted it on a new foundation and then set it down. 
How do I move this thing?
- Thread starter Woodworkerman
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Woodworkerman
Bronze Member
Yep...it's here and being put to good use. This gazebo is going to have to get moved soon but as you eluded to in your post....it won't be a simple as picking it up with the loader and setting it down where I want. The tractor will make this job easier without a doubt but I will still need to come up with a plan.Blagadan said:BTW... Did you buy the Kioti DK45S?? If you did.............. Awsome result!!!
BTW everyone....I just had my driveway paved and everything heavy I run on it is causing damage. I will need to wait for a cool (preferably wet) day to move this monstrosity. Thanks for all the replies.
Dale1995
Silver Member
I also would put a couple of skids under it and drag it or put some type of rollers under the skids, just take your time. I moved some garages alot bigger than that. I even used some round firewood for rollers. Easy job..get a couple of friends for a couple of hours
ampsucker
Platinum Member
regarding asphalt driveway.... depending on how "heavy" the heavy things are, you should definitely be careful if you are leaving tracks. asphalt has a cure time in the 90 day range. but, if you are leaving tracks it may mean that your sub surface wasn't properly compacted. the cure time on the top layer of asphalt has to do with evaporation of the light hydrocarbons. it will get less gooey and more brittle, but be sure not to ever drive anything real heavy like a cement mixer or dump truck over it unless you had it specifically designed to take those kind of loads.
amp
amp
Sounds like to me you could use a trailer. When you have a tractor you need a trailer (I hope you explained this to the boss). I plan to move a grain bin that I have and I plan on jacking it up and putting on trailer and dragging to new spot. Sould be easy on driveway. big dan
OP
Woodworkerman
Bronze Member
ampsucker said:
I'm glad you posted this because when i had it done (last Monday and Tuesday) the guys told me not to drive on it for 24-48 hours. I listened and now, a week later, everything is leaving marks. If my son parks his bicycle for 20 minutes, the kickstand will sink. That cant be right.
I am thinking of calling the contractor and asking hin to come back with a roller or something and try to fix some of the marks that have developed. What do you think?
davitk
Platinum Member
Woodworkerman said:I'm glad you posted this because when i had it done (last Monday and Tuesday) the guys told me not to drive on it for 24-48 hours. I listened and now, a week later, everything is leaving marks. If my son parks his bicycle for 20 minutes, the kickstand will sink. That cant be right.
Have your son sign his name by the damage
That Kioti you have is mighty heavy, do you park it in a place accessible only from the new drive? Hope you didn't shoot yourself in the foot.
In regards to moving the gazebo, I still like the "Flintstone Sled" concept, use the loader to lift it, slide some 4 x 4s under it and attach some sort of rollers or wheelbarrow tires (maybe lag bolt the wheelbarrow wheels to the 4 x 4) under the frame on the back side, the pick up the front with the TPH or the FEL with a chain (remember, You are attaching to the frame you built, not the building) and drive it to where it belongs. Then call the contractor back with his something to fix the damage
Blagadan
Gold Member
If you need to move that gazebo soon, then make sure you pick up a couple of sheets of 3/4inch plywood to lay down over your drive to protect it during the move. It took my sisters new tarmacadam drive a couple of months before it hardened off. Even now, theres tire impressions in the surface where they parked their cars. That was even after the recommended 7 day wait...
ampsucker
Platinum Member
i would have your asphalt guy come and take a look at it and fix the damage. a bicycle leaving marks? seriously?
the problem with small indentations like parked tire spots, etc. is that if you live in a place with winters, snow melt will settle into the low spots and freeze. at best you have a slick spot where you can bust your ***** real easy. at worst, you'll get freeze cracking at that location.
the time to have it fixed is now while it's still pliable. you can never patch a pot hole or level it correctly once it's there and cured, and drive sealer coating won't do a good job of filling it in, either. also, make sure your contractor crowned the thing correctly so water runs off one side or the other or both sides, - preferable towards the side with a ditch or culvert. i'm always surprised by how many "contractors" own these big fancy tools and don't know how to do even the most basic things with them....
if he didn't crown it when laying the sub-base, it's probably too late to do much about it. all that should be done as part of the prep work. but he should be able to level out any indentations and add more material if necessary if it's only been a few days.
amp
the problem with small indentations like parked tire spots, etc. is that if you live in a place with winters, snow melt will settle into the low spots and freeze. at best you have a slick spot where you can bust your ***** real easy. at worst, you'll get freeze cracking at that location.
the time to have it fixed is now while it's still pliable. you can never patch a pot hole or level it correctly once it's there and cured, and drive sealer coating won't do a good job of filling it in, either. also, make sure your contractor crowned the thing correctly so water runs off one side or the other or both sides, - preferable towards the side with a ditch or culvert. i'm always surprised by how many "contractors" own these big fancy tools and don't know how to do even the most basic things with them....
if he didn't crown it when laying the sub-base, it's probably too late to do much about it. all that should be done as part of the prep work. but he should be able to level out any indentations and add more material if necessary if it's only been a few days.
amp
jdmar
Gold Member
I moved my play house with my dad driving the tractor (about all he was good for..all the ideas were mine!). I wedged each side up and slid/hammerred a 2x6 under and screwed to the playhouse frame. Then I put 2" plastic EMT under and winched/rolled it onto the trailer. My dad drove it to my new spot under the trees....he almost tipped once! Then he lifted the 3PTH and we rolled it back off. It took a couple hours but at least I didn't hurt my dad.
Miles (Peter's 6 year old son)
Miles (Peter's 6 year old son)
Attachments
czechsonofagun
Elite Member
Blagadan said:
We achieve the same thing with 16" teepee
- only the sitting is less comfy and I still have to swing the spatula.
OP
Woodworkerman
Bronze Member
First attempt......failure!
Well I got behind it and tried to lift it slowly with the loader but it started to come apart. Then, I turned around and tried to push it with the backhoe. This was working but causing some damage to the gazebo at the point of contact with the bucket. Next, I wrapped some rope around the bottom and tried to pull it. The rope broke.
I have some heavy duty tie downs coming and I will try it again. I'll let you know how things work out.
Well I got behind it and tried to lift it slowly with the loader but it started to come apart. Then, I turned around and tried to push it with the backhoe. This was working but causing some damage to the gazebo at the point of contact with the bucket. Next, I wrapped some rope around the bottom and tried to pull it. The rope broke.
I have some heavy duty tie downs coming and I will try it again. I'll let you know how things work out.
davitk
Platinum Member
How's the cup holder working?
davitk
Platinum Member
Sorry, I guess that wasn't very helpful
I would not try pulling it with a strap, as you found from lifting it is not well fastened together, and by pushing, that the wood is soft. I believe the only way to move it in one piece is by placing it on a pallet of some sort e.g. planks, or 4 x 4 framing, and then 'toe nail' screw the gazebo to the pallet, thus consolidating it to a more structurally stable frame. Then, do what you like: pull it, push it, wheel barrow it, whatever but DO NOT pull or push on the gazebo itself as it will likely destruct.
Good luck!
I would not try pulling it with a strap, as you found from lifting it is not well fastened together, and by pushing, that the wood is soft. I believe the only way to move it in one piece is by placing it on a pallet of some sort e.g. planks, or 4 x 4 framing, and then 'toe nail' screw the gazebo to the pallet, thus consolidating it to a more structurally stable frame. Then, do what you like: pull it, push it, wheel barrow it, whatever but DO NOT pull or push on the gazebo itself as it will likely destruct.
Good luck!
jdmar
Gold Member
My kids play fort was very "mushy" trying to move it. So I screwed a couple sheets of OSB to the side and front. That added a lot of structural rigidity so I could lift/push/pull it. You may try that on every other side of your gazebo. 3 sheets of OSB is abut $20 now...well worth not trashing the Gazebo. Let us know how it is going.
Peter
Peter
AchingBack
Elite Member
So far, this seems the best suggestion. You'll need at least 3 poles or large PVC.Defective said:
OP
Woodworkerman
Bronze Member
My father-in-law stopped by tonight and offered to bring up a couple of 10 foot lengths of 4 inch conduit to get things "rolling". I will be trying that as soon as he gets them up here. I will keep everyone posted. Thanks for all the replies and interest. It certainly makes this task more enjoyable.
