How do you drain the 4WD gear oil

[tonyw]

Exactly how safe is it for a novice to rip apart the housing and do a clean-out like you did, EFC?
In other words, how likely am I to have parts left over after re-assembly?! /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif
Thanks again

 

[EFC]

Depends on the front axel. Which model tractor do you have? It would be my last resort. Are you having terminal goop in the axel?

 

[tonyw]

Most of what actually drained from the axle was gear oil I had added, there is still goop inside, some of which drains out very slowly in globs. Who knows what has been in there--the previous owner mentioned using some sort of STP product, but there might be mud mixed in as well.

 

[JerryG]

I may get blasted for this, but here goes anyway. I would jack up the front end and the rear, just enough to get the tires to clear the ground (always on proper jack stands). Then I would OVER fill with kerosene. Start it up in 4-wd and let it run for a while. While it is running, turn the steering lock to lock several time. Let it run long enough to get the gears and kerosene warmed up and then drain.

 

[tonyw]

that gives me an idea for an amusement park ride--well, actually one of those 25 or 50 cent rides outside of a Walmart or Kmart! Seriously though, I don't have enough reliable jackstands for the job, and anything remotely dangerous always catches my wife's attention--especially since my accident building the tractor shed!

 

[gbirky]

I guess it depends on what you mean by "novice". I am no mechanic, but I am mechanically inclined. I had never disassembled a mechanical device as complicated as the font axle on my YM1110D. But I did it. My problem was drastically complicated by the fact that the axle had been run probably for years with mud as the lubricant. The bearings were apart in pieces - I have some of what was left of balls and needles from bearings in a babyfood jar as a reminder. All of the bearings and seals needed to be replaced, plus I had to have some softer metal pieces made at a machine shop. Since some of the gears were not available, and the inner surface of the gear acted as a needle bearing race - I had a real job on my hands. All the bearings and seals had to be replaced. Alot of the pieces I took out were unrecognizable. A good parts manual is a must before dis-assembly.

With the instruction of Buck (aka EFC) I got the hard pivot shafts (also badly torn up) and the above mentioned gears to a machine shop. They turned the shafts down to a smooth finish and pressed a Delrin bushing into the gears. I have almost completed the reassembly of this axle - but got delayed over Christmas due to the flu.

Take your time - don't get in a hurry. Its not as bad as you think.

By the way - THANKS BUCK!!! I couldn't have done it without you. I have the little needle bearings I got for you. I'll send you an e-mail.

 

[tonyw]

ouch!/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif I don't think my problems are quite that bad, at least, I hope not. I think I'll stick with a thorough flushing and hope that's enough. Besides, I need to put some things back together before I even think of taking something else apart!
thanks for your input!

 

[EFC]

I would say a good flushing would do the trick on yours. Remember to flush the differential also.

 

[tonyw]

thanks, EFC! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[tonyw]

Thanks to everyone for your help on the gear oil questions. I flushed the axle and differential this weekend--discovered it is a good idea to pull both front wheels(on a 1401d anyway) when attempting to drain the gear oil! I also discovered it's a great idea to have lots of time to let the gear oil drain; even with
the flush mixed in, it took a long time to drain!
tony