QRTRHRS
Elite Member
Watch the strong arm style on fittings with an o-ring. You can squash the ring and cause a leak.
How do you torque hydraulic lines?
- Thread starter BloomingtonMike
- Start date
- Views: 9091
CT_Tree_Guy
Platinum Member
<font color="blue"> Watch the strong arm style on fittings with an o-ring. You can squash the ring and cause a leak. </font>
This raises a good point, in line with what I was trying to say in my previous post about developing a "feel" for torques. There are so many other factors that one needs to develop a "feel" for, and understanding of. It's ALL about physics and "uncommon" sense.
For instance: what material is the fastener made of? Grade 2? Grade 5? Grade 8? Brass? Stainless? What's it being threaded into? Cast iron? Aluminum? Mild steel? Cast steel? Is it fine pitch or coarse pitch? How many threads are going to be doing the holding? 10? 30? Is it a JIC hydraulic fitting, where the seal is just metal to metal? Or is it a fitting with tapered threads that requires teflon joint sealant and maybe it needs a little more, or less torque to get it pointing the right way? Does it use O-rings that don't want as much torque? Or a compression fitting, or does it involve ferrules, or is it a banjo fitting with copper washers?
Lots of things to consider, for sure, but it's not all that tough if you just apply a healthy amount of that uncommon sense. Don't be like my friend who tightened his auto tranny drain plug so tight that he stripped out his heavy cast aluminum pan and it's been leaking ever since. I'm like, dude, how tight did you think that needed to be?
Anyway, for hydraulic lines, I still like Eddie's advice - if it's leaking, tighten it a little more. Now THAT is uncommon sense! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
This raises a good point, in line with what I was trying to say in my previous post about developing a "feel" for torques. There are so many other factors that one needs to develop a "feel" for, and understanding of. It's ALL about physics and "uncommon" sense.
For instance: what material is the fastener made of? Grade 2? Grade 5? Grade 8? Brass? Stainless? What's it being threaded into? Cast iron? Aluminum? Mild steel? Cast steel? Is it fine pitch or coarse pitch? How many threads are going to be doing the holding? 10? 30? Is it a JIC hydraulic fitting, where the seal is just metal to metal? Or is it a fitting with tapered threads that requires teflon joint sealant and maybe it needs a little more, or less torque to get it pointing the right way? Does it use O-rings that don't want as much torque? Or a compression fitting, or does it involve ferrules, or is it a banjo fitting with copper washers?
Lots of things to consider, for sure, but it's not all that tough if you just apply a healthy amount of that uncommon sense. Don't be like my friend who tightened his auto tranny drain plug so tight that he stripped out his heavy cast aluminum pan and it's been leaking ever since. I'm like, dude, how tight did you think that needed to be?
Anyway, for hydraulic lines, I still like Eddie's advice - if it's leaking, tighten it a little more. Now THAT is uncommon sense! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( There are so many other factors that one needs to develop a "feel" for, and understanding of. It's ALL about physics and "uncommon" sense.)</font>
You are so right...
What's the old saying..."common sense isn't very common"? There's no diploma like the one from the "School of Hard Knocks"
You are so right...
What's the old saying..."common sense isn't very common"? There's no diploma like the one from the "School of Hard Knocks"
OP
BloomingtonMike
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2004
- Messages
- 788
- Tractor
- John Deere 3320
I did use line wrenches - a fist for me. Very nice. I will own a set now.
As for the 212ft/lb torque rating on the loader arm mount on the JD - **** that is torqued!!
As for the 212ft/lb torque rating on the loader arm mount on the JD - **** that is torqued!!
mark4Jesus
Silver Member
If you are going to actually torque the fitting, then RaT is correct that you need a crows foot on your torque wrench. The important thing is that the crows foot opening has to be at a 90 degree angle from the wrench. If the opening is in line with the wrench you will end up with a higher torque value than what the wrench is set at. With the opening at 90 deg. the actual torque will be the same as what is set, or where you stop looking at the pointer, depending on the type of torque wrench you are using.
A standard rule of thumb for tightening tube fittings is hand tight, then 1/4 turn. Any more than that and the sealing service, whether flared or a ferrule, will be damaged.
A standard rule of thumb for tightening tube fittings is hand tight, then 1/4 turn. Any more than that and the sealing service, whether flared or a ferrule, will be damaged.
