how I improved my welding

[MJPetersen]

To me this is funny 1)because it is true and 2) because I knew better but would not take the time to do it right. As many of you might know I have a couple projects for implements for my YM1510 I made a dirt scoop and an imitation Gannon rollover box blade. I managed to take some time yesterday to work on the BB when I was getting very frustrated with the quality of the welds. I have not welded much in the past 10 years, but I knew that I could better than the result that I was getting and I could not blame it all on my <$100 welder. I did 2 things.

1) I was having a hard time seeing the puddle so I cleaned the lenses--i did not know that they were SO dirty. Night and day difference--I thought it was just my eyes going bad. You have to be able to see what you are welding to weld well and I switched to the larger lens size years ago. I really think that this was the main thing.

2) But I also knew that my cable connections to the welder had a lot of resistance (they were melting from heat) so I found and installed new welding lead connections and presto. MUCH better welds.

Nothing magical, or a great secret, but the result was worth the effort and cost--I would like to have one of those automatic darkening helmets, and a wire feed but do not do enough welding to justify them. I then had a good day and made great progress on my BB, which post I will update with pics shortly.

Have a great day.

Mike in Warsaw

 

[texasjohn]

Good story... thanks for sharing... I'll remember to clean the helmet lens!

 

[Mighty Dodge]

Speaking of auto-darkening helmets. I bought one of the Harbor Freight helmets on sale for 49 bucks. Man that thing is great! I've been using it for 2 years now with no problems. Of course I'm not a professional welder, just work on my own stuff.

M.D.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I've found the same problem before with my lens being dirty. I haven't tried to change the leads, though. I'll have to try that.

 

[MJPetersen]

Farmer, It was not the leads themselves that were the problem--well the stinger lead does get a bit warm like it is too small for what I am doing--you mean that max amperage is not normal--but I often need all it can give. My problem was the cheap clamp connectors that attach the leads to the machine. They were creating high resistance--so much so that they melted and shorted out the welder. I went to the welding shop and bought replacements that are much better quality. I cannot say that every weld is perfect, but alot more of them are at least passable.

Mike in Warsaw

 

[SkunkWerX]

I bought some welding rod at HarborFreight.

Let me tell everyone.... DON'T ever be tempted!!!
It is horrible. sputters sparks and even starts to melt as you are welding.
Bad stuff. The shielding is very poor, in palces it doesn't even leave any kind of crust or slag.

I had always used UTP welding rod, and it did a marvelous job, it's expensive, but now I realize just how BAD, Bad can be.

I even took additional care to grind my bevels, clean connections, make sure my ground connection was A1, and still I have narrowed it down to those awful HarborFreight rod.

The moral of the story, use good quality welding rod, of the right size for the job.

Thanks, this is a good thread, it reminds me of taking my time and doing a good job.

 

[JRP]

That was three good tips (including the HF rods). Thanks!

One easy to remember thing about connections is any time you have current thru a resistor, heat is generated. If you question a lead or battery connection, weld (or crank the engine), and then feel the connection. Turn off the welder first. When a battery seems weak the first thing I check is for hot terminals. If it ain't hot, no need to clean them.

I always feel the plugs on my power tools as I unplug them. A hot pug gets replaced. If it still gets hot, the receptical gets replaced too.

A friend lost his house to a fire. It was tough for him. Now I am much more careful with electricity. Most of us think electric shock is the risk from poor electrical equipment. Shock is bad, but so is loosing every thing you own..

 

[Ford960]

Speaking of auto-darkening helmets. I bought one of the Harbor Freight helmets on sale for 49 bucks. Man that thing is great! I've been using it for 2 years now with no problems. Of course I'm not a professional welder, just work on my own stuff.
M.D.

I've had one of those HF auto darks for a couple of years too. One thing that I noticed is that the smoke can get between the outer plastic cover plate and the lens and cloud your view. I make it a habit to pull this cover and wipe it clean every once in a while.

Another thing that I've found is that I can't see as well as I used to so I wear a cheap pair of reading glasses from Wally World over my regular glasses so I can see the weld. This is especially important when running aluminum with mig, by the time that I get my eyes focused the welding is done and usually screwed up.

My dad always had a magnifing lens in his helmets and I would take them out to use his helmet. It would iritate him but now I now why he had them and now I wish that I could find one to fit my auto dark. I can get one for my other helmets but now I addicted to the auto dark and don't want to go back.

 

[Renze]

What kind of electrode do you use ? there is a lot of difference between rutile or base, some weld perfect under hand but arent suitable for top to bottom vertical welding. There is a difference in how easy the rod "starts" some have to be rubbed to start, some you just drop on the metal and they instantly start welding.
Do you compare apples to apples, and not apples to pears ?

About hot connectors, last year i made a deal with a guy i worked during the summer. his fathers farm was cleared, and they only kept the 3pt scoop and the pasture drag, so grandma could do the garden and granddaughters riding arena could be dragged.
I bought a mower, silage block cutter and a complete irrigation system, which included a 7,5 Kw electrial pump which hasnt been used for quite some years.

When the rains came back after the first drought, i wanted to put the pump away and found out that there was no possibility to take the 4 pin 3phase connector out of the wall receiver. Not even with tools and a rope, instead i ripped the receiver off the wall
I bought a new connector an a new wall receiver. The guys at the electrics supplier said, that this was not unusual, when using an older 16 amp connector continously on a 15 amp pump. When the connectors get old, the copper pins corrode which causes electrical resistance.
The effect of the resistance, is that the areas that DO make contact, weld onto each other like you do with a spot welding machine.

From now on i throw away any corroded plug. I keep to many trash anyways.

 

[MJPetersen]

When I cleaned the lenses I took them all out and cleaned in between them. That was where the most crud was.

Renze, I use 6013 Lincon rod--ER150. I have tried one other kind years ago, but my cheapy buzz box did not like it. Back to what works. I am going to try this week maybe some hard facing rod on the scarifier teeth. If my machine cannot handle it I will go across the street to my friend who is a professional welder and has a welding business.

Mike in Warsaw