How long to restart after removing filter bowl...Kubota 5240

[rfc143]

I recently had to remove and replace the fuel filter, and filled the bowl up again with fuel and screwed it back on. I opened the "bleeder" or priming control and cranked the engine. It took forever to start again. I tried multiple times (like at least a dozen times, for 10-15 seconds each, letting it rest between goes); I set the manual throttle all the way open, half way open, a little open to see if that made a difference. I've read that this is a pretty straight forward procedure.

So, the question is: Is this normal? should priming take a lot less time? Is something wrong with the system?

 

[wmonroe]

I’ve change mine a few times now and I don’t remember it cranking more than a couple revolutions before starting. I’m due again very soon so I’ll pay closer attention and post back.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

If the fuel tank and the vents are working right, you should put filter on open valve up and fuel should start to fill up housing, may need to crank a little to get flowing. The bleeder vent by the inlet to the injection pump is supposed to be opened for a little bit to bleed air out and then when it smooths out while running and then closed.

David

 

[rfc143]

I know the filter bowl is completely full. I don't understand why it should take so much cranking. Is there a fuel pump that pushes the fuel through the filter bowl up to the injector pump? If so, could it be faulty?

 

[thepumpguysc]

You obviously have air in the system.. utube video by orange tractor talk shows the procedure how to bleed air.
Its also very good info if you EVER run out of fuel.. which IS GONNA HAPPEN.. & alittle knowledge will save you a LONG WALK.

 

[JB13502]

I, like many others, also had fuel issues this winter.

On my MX5200 I unscrew the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter housing, turn the key to the on position (not start) and let the fuel pump run. The manual says 1 minute, I've found that 2 minutes works better for me.

After two minutes, I tighten the bleed screw and start her right up.

 

[rfc143]

I, like many others, also had fuel issues this winter.

On my MX5200 I unscrew the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter housing, turn the key to the on position (not start) and let the fuel pump run. The manual says 1 minute, I've found that 2 minutes works better for me.

After two minutes, I tighten the bleed screw and start her right up.

I don't think my filter bowl has a bleeder screw on top. The manual simply says to open up the air bleed valve on the side of the injector pump. I've scoured my WSM to find this other "fuel pump", to no avail.
I can't even find a system diagram of the fuel system.
Does fuel gravity flow to a pump that then pressurizes the fuel (low pressure) through the bowl and on to the injector (high pressure) pump? If there is a low pressure "lift pump", does it make noise? I assume it's electric.

 

[ericm979]

My old Kubota was gravity fed. The fuel tank was up above the engine. My new Branson has the tank down low and a low pressure lift pump to get fuel to the injection pump. It makes a rapid clicking noise when the key is turned on. Both had bleed valves on the fuel filter housing. When changing the filter on the Branson I opened the filter bleed and turned the key to on. On the Kubota I forgot to bleed the filter housing and the tractor died in the driveway. I had to bleed the injectors.

Is your Kubota mechanical injection or electronic?

 

[The Fred]

Once the lift pump or pre pump gets airbound forget it. Anywho at this point you must remove a hose from the lift pump which is located just below and left of the engine oil fill cap.

Make sure you have fuel going in to the pre pump then crank the engine with the pressure side hose off and let the fuel fly, once you reconnect everything you will get flow to the injection pump. These fuel systems are quite finnicky once you've had a gelling issue or air getting into the pre-pump side. Page 64 on the left there you'll see my red arrow where the pre pump is located.

I'm guessing you figured out by now how to remove the headlight assembly to access the battery.

Once you learn your tractor's fuel system you will be much more at ease in these situations especially with this cold spell we had over the weekend. My friend's John Deere froze up the other morning and I was underneath it with a torch warming the bottom of the fuel tank where it froze, what a mess.

Good luck, Fred

 

[rfc143]

Once the lift pump or pre pump gets airbound forget it. Anywho at this point you must remove a hose from the lift pump which is located just below and left of the engine oil fill cap.

Make sure you have fuel going in to the pre pump then crank the engine with the pressure side hose off and let the fuel fly, once you reconnect everything you will get flow to the injection pump. These fuel systems are quite finnicky once you've had a gelling issue or air getting into the pre-pump side. Page 64 on the left there you'll see my red arrow where the pre pump is located.

Once you learn your tractor's fuel system you will be much more at ease in these situations especially with this cold spell we had over the weekend.

Good luck, Fred

Thank you Fred!
I always wondered what that thing is! Now that I know, I'll trace the lines and draw my own diagram of the complete fuel system. Is that a diaphragm pump?