How much counterweight for CK20?

[chelydra]

Went through last winter with the BH as counterweight on my CK20HST. Bit inconvenient, always having to look out for trees, cars, garage doors and other smashables. But I didn't want to go to the trouble of fabricating a concrete block or spend the $$ on a rock box.

Looking at the pictures on the recent thread "Loggin' Kioti Style" makes me wonder if we really need a counterweight for plowing and lifting snow with the regular loader. -Or if less than the usual recommended 400-600# might do it, say a chunk of log that would fit in the 3PH and be tied in with rope or a chain.

Am I being too lazy here?

 

[williekioti]

My two cents FWIW, as the guy who toted that log from my header a little over quarter mile to my yard for sawing, I believe the limiting factor is going to be rear wheel traction. Not balance and lift capacity. After doing that the other day I don't think I'd even attempt it on snow/ice conditions w/o more wieght on back. I could definitely feel it in the seat of my pants that the orange beast was a tad light in the rear. A little more wieght in the rear would have been nice, don't think I could even have done it w/o loaded tires. Having said that, I highly doubt that a 60" bucket full of the wettest snow would equal that green log. So I'm thinking that she'll do fine this winter with the loaded tires and my RB on. Since this will be my first winter with my ck30 you will have to qualify my comments as untested in the snow removal department though.

As to carrying a log on the 3pt for ballast I think to get anything approaching the wieght needed it would have to be a sizeable piece of wood. Meaning that you would be back in the same circumstances with potential "smasher" behind you again. Unless you have access to something like a piece of 24-30" green oak/black loqust/beech/hickory then you might get serviceable wieght in a pig in the 3-4' long range. Which would keep it within the tread width of your machine limiting your potential to smash something. At least if you're carrying your ballast in the form of a low log you'll only be creasing a door panel instead of taking out the windows and roof pillar on your car.

 

[IslandTractor]

When I first got my grapple I tried it out with no implement at all on the rear. Even with filled tires I would easily lift the rear wheels just picking up a good sized load. Traveling with a load was really exciting .

I then just attached the bush hog and things have been very stable ever since. I can load the grapple to the point that I can barely lift it (like half a tree) and the rear wheels pretty much always stay on the ground. If I wanted more weight I'd just strap something onto the rear of the bush hog as the lever arm would multiply the downforce nicely.

 

[VictorW]

Do you have any rear implements? I plow snow with a 6ft backblade on my CK30. It's more than enough to offset a full bucket snow if I have to make a pile somewhere. A full load of dirt makes the rear light, so I just usually leave the blade on and it gives the rear a little more traction. My rear tires are not loaded. Maybe invest in an implement you might need instead of a weight box.

 

[CBB]

Do you have any rear implements? I plow snow with a 6ft backblade on my CK30. It's more than enough to offset a full bucket snow if I have to make a pile somewhere. A full load of dirt makes the rear light, so I just usually leave the blade on and it gives the rear a little more traction. My rear tires are not loaded. Maybe invest in an implement you might need instead of a weight box.

I agree.

I have all four tires loaded with Rim Guard and will use the bucket and scraper blade for this winter.

If you find that you are coming off the ground in back, take a smaller load in the bucket. My father and I just had a discussion on this and how people keep buying larger and larger tractors when all some need to do is slow down and take a little more time and work within the capacities of the tractor on hand.