How not to work on hydraulic problems

   / How not to work on hydraulic problems #1  

Ken

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2000
Messages
1,769
Location
North Central Arkansas
Tractor
John Deere 4520,
This WD45 Made some time in the early 50's Dripped oil at all locations that had a gasket used for bush hogging and mowing of hay so this oily mass was everywhere it could settle.
3 high pressure washes cleaned to point of being able to get close look at the hydraulics.
The 1st. problem was the 3 point lift would raise but not lower unless a hose was loosened then spray fluid and lift would lower. Some one had added a Prince HCI ? control valve and had placed in front of the seat so lever was in danger of doing damage during a bump.
Also galvanized piping to rear of tractor. all threads were wraped with teflon tape and leaked. So decided to remove all and clean up the placing of Prince control and stop the leakage. The book says this lift problem caused by Hold valve #1 in Hydraulic lift pump. so for a day made and remade the adjustmet it mentioned. Nothing improved. I did not remove the pump to clean the unit . but decided to use as the former owner used. so made bracket for new location and using permatex reinstalled the hoses and lift cyl. put end caps on power beyond to later get new lines. 1/2 inch water pipe just didn't look proper. Trying the replaced controller it worked lifting the 3 point and lowering the same .so connected to bush hog. lift proper but lowered about 4 inches and locked up. took the hose fitting off the lift cyl. a few drops of oil. but some venting of air. retightened the hose and retried. lifted good lowered about 4" locked up. again took off the hose very little oil drip from cylinder.
Then moved the cyl to check if hung on something. it was. the draw bar had vibrated back ward to hold the bushhog. except when I moved the cyl. all the oil in side squarted out into my face took off my hat and washed the tractor as well the area. found my towel and cleaned up enough to go get a bath and change of clothes. Think that was my 2nd problem
My 3rd problem was when tried to get on tractor to check if the leaks were all tight I sliped on the oil and almost fell off.
But another cleaning of tractor was able to check for leaks looks good today bushhoged 1/2 acre . This took 3 days of work just to be able to stop oil leaks no complaints gripes just would look at my 4520 John Deere and wonder why I had accepted this WD45 in trade.
And as the thread says not the way to work on hydraulic problems. But reading this how would you of done it. ken
 
   / How not to work on hydraulic problems #2  
Sounds like a bummer of a job, as you know ya got to clean em before you can source the dribbles, I like to use purple power and hot water to get the grime off before starting any nightmares. I am also lucky to have a huge stock of 4x4 cardboard sheets in my loft, I double line the area before pulling lines and doing hydro services and burn them when done, it keeps me from falling and breaking my back...again. Reminds me of a bobcat I fixed last week, had three leaks in the lift system, the owner was going thru 2 gallons of fluid a day prior to my repairs. BTW anyone ever tried to fix one of those nightmares? Had to unbolt and lift the motor to gain proper access to one of the lines...thinking I'll be getting a phone call when he gets the invoice on that job..
 
   / How not to work on hydraulic problems #3  
Ken,

If doing tractor/hydraulic repair was so easy there wouldn't be so many repair shops out there.....

The easiest way out is to sign your name to the check as it gets loaded back on your trailer.....If not, education is not easy or cheap..:confused2:
 
   / How not to work on hydraulic problems
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I agree hydraulic repair is more than a quick reading of the online "easy to do book."
But just moving the location of a control to better place and have 3 days of excitement.or despare to do so. and still the pump unit problem is waiting until a later date.(I feel the unloader valve is full of teflon looking at the amount in drained fluid)
If I was going to add more to tractor or make a special controller would have gone to repair shop.
At least I know how to not fix the next problem.
ken
 
   / How not to work on hydraulic problems #5  
I used to know a man who had a glass eyeball. He got it after pressured hydraulic fluid shot into one eye and half blinded him. I don't know all the details, and he is now longer with us, but I think of him every time I change a burst hose.
 
   / How not to work on hydraulic problems #6  
After reading through your post several times, I am still trying to figure out if you are asking any questions, or just giving us a run down on the situation with the tractor. Is it working well enough now?

Putting end caps on PB, what was that about.

Replacement controller, is that a hyd valve you are talking about?

I would recommend removing all the galvanized fitting, and replace with correct fittings.

Was the engine running when you removed a hose and got sprayed?
 
   / How not to work on hydraulic problems
  • Thread Starter
#7  
After reading through your post several times, I am still trying to figure out if you are asking any questions, or just giving us a run down on the situation with the tractor. Is it working well enough now?

Close to end of the thread mentioned no complaints, or gripes just giving a run down of what happened when deciding to move the Prince HCI controller. This O'k hyd valve has pipeing for power beyond connectors rear of tractor for lift of equipment.

Putting end caps on PB, what was that about.

The power beyond lines were 1/2" galvanized and so removed and capped to be installed later when have steel lines.
Replacement controller, is that a hyd valve you are talking about?
Prince HCI taken off the label on controller. lever for A or B and outlets same for power beyond lines.
I would recommend removing all the galvanized fitting, and replace with correct fittings.
Removed all of the fittings and cleaned the teflon off the threads. Then drained the fluid and bits of teflon in fluid. feel the unloader part of valve plugged with something. Most likely the reason can lift the 3 point will not lower unless pressure released by loosening hose.
Was the engine running when you removed a hose and got sprayed?
No engine off. The bush hog was sitting on end of tow bar just moving cyl let bush hog drop forcing fluid out of cyl.
Will remove the hyd. pump and repair or clean later . Did this help Thanks for thr reply ken
 
   / How not to work on hydraulic problems #8  
Is this an add on pump, or original pump?
I believe the wd45's had closed center system and was typical of 3000 psi or higher, but had very small capacity for fluid.
 
   / How not to work on hydraulic problems
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Is this an add on pump, or original pump?
I believe the wd45's had closed center system and was typical of 3000 psi or higher, but had very small capacity for fluid.

This was a add on I don't know what the tractor was used for but in the last 50 + years the foot clutch bushings were worn totally out same for the hand clutch And the steering wheel rod at least 1/16" bushing was needed to ease the steering . The hydraulics Someone had added connectors to use for raise / lower of towed equipment . 3 point lift is home made out of grader blades. I suspect it was used on highway mowers for at least 30 years.
This forum post was for only comment on not all hydro work is clean. in the shop with air conditioners blowing cool breezes. No gripes or complaints
Tried to get pictures seems computer also has issues about this.
maybe some day.
ken
 

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